savyboy

2010+ front sway is the same part number for GT3/GT3RS/GT2RS/GT3RS 4.0 (997.343.701.94)

Swapping the front sway necessitates dropping the front sub-frame, a PITA and afterwards you *should* do an alignment (due to sub frame drop).

Sways are meant to fine tune not fix major problems. This fine tuning is in addition (additive) to whatever the spring rate is therefore the same rate sway bar can be used on very differently sprung cars (think about it). A heavier bar is simply additive to whatever spring rate is in place. A bigger contact patch should not be compensated for with sways, it should be springs or possibly dampening if the dampener is adjustable for compression.

Drop links are already a weak point and get bent with OE bars, stiffer sway is only going to make it worse. If you go to a bigger rear tire then it needs to be balanced by a bigger front tire, no free lunch.

lopro

nice duct tape job.

savyboy

The coilovers are just sitting there...whispering...Clarke, come cheat with me...Clarke...Clark...Clarke...

NJ-GT

You can use a 10mm sway bar with 2000# springs, or a 30mm sway bar with a 100# spring.

The GMG sway bars are designed to work with the stock GT3 suspension, the B16 kit has spring rates (340/560) similar to the stock GT3 suspension.

The fact that you don't see it, doesn't mean it is incorrect.

The 996 GT3 Cup used 1500# springs, and the sway bars were just 20% stiffer than the ones in the 996 GT3 street car, just 1mm thicker. Nobody told Porsche they should put a 300% stiffer sway bar package for the Cup cars.

Sway bars are used for fine tuning the balance, because adjusting them is easier than replacing springs.

In the ideal world, we should not use sway bars, and leave all the work to the springs/shocks. One advantage of stiffening sway bars is that body roll is reduced, but the ride comfort doesn't change.

Mdrums is not looking at a race setup, just something that is comfortable for street use, affordable and easy to install. My same goal with the Cayman S, no compromise on street use, and slightly better handling with focus on getting more life from my tires, and less annoying body roll.

NJ-GT

997.343.701.94, same sway bar I use in my 07 Cayman S with 154# front springs. It does work, as proven by 3 SCCA National level wins. The bar is now being used by every Cayman/Boxster running in the stock class.

Savy, I know a trick to install the front 997/987 sway bar in less than one hour, without dropping the subframe. Just loosen the subframe bolts closer to the cabin, and remove the ones closer to the bumper, open it like a croc mouth, done.

utkinpol

so what was the logic for TPC to put in 50% stiffer front bar in their solution then as they also bump up springs rate?

ps. 997.343.701.94 is the one with 26.8mm diameter?

savyboy

You got it! That is how I do it.

My perception is that TPC likes to set up a car with a LOT of push (understeer). That is their setup philosophy, and it seems to work for the owners driving style. I know others who like a lot of push, Mooty for example loves push.

I HATE push, especially on corner exit. Feel like I am going to run off at trackout. I love sensitive throttle steering in neutral midcorner conditions. I LOVE to adjust the line with the throttle. So I setup for neutrality in handling. It is my preference.

Unless you are racing and need every last hundredth of a second, why not set up the car for the way you like it?

In regards to GTS (Mike) I am reminded of some happy lappery (A.J.!) with Cass Whitehead driving and in order to get the softly sprung and pushy GTS to rotate he was carrying big time trailbrake deep into the apex. And they were absolutely destroying tires on the demo cars (100% OE settings/pressures). Spring rates and alignment settings that are suitable for the street are necessarily compromised for hard tracking. Pick your poison and accept the consequences

Mvez

Bingo. I agree with TPC that the car needs more front rate for the track, but I don't agree with them about the "push" setup that they like, because they are used to setting up Cup cars for maximum lap times (or the Daytona banking), not what I am after. This why I uprated my front springs, rear springs, and bars, because I wanted to retain "stock-ish" type spring rates for some level of civility, but then the bigger bars allow me a bigger tuning range for the track, especially GMG's rear bar.

Rad is right, the GMG bars work magic, and then you couple it with slightly higher rates and you have a car that does whatever you want, but is still totally streetable. I'm still sorting out my final setup, but I had to dial things back, because with more front spring, more front camber, and bigger rear bar, the car was electric on turn-in, a bit too electric to be honest. In order to do that, and free up the car on mid-to-exit, I'll be slightly reducing front camber, and possibly stiffening the rear bar, because my LSD has tightened things up, despite adding about 70# of rear rate.

Cost for this type of setup: $700 GMG bars, $350 Swift springs, $175 Tarret rear spring hat. This car doesn't need Motons...at all.

If I had a .2RS, I would still use the GMG bars, because they will be an incremental improvement, and allow you to balance the rear much better, while increasing overall roll stiffness. Rad said it earlier, and that's the beauty of bars, they increase roll stiffness, but at a bumpy track like Sebring, having the lower rates actually helps with grip. For Sebring, or any bumpy track, bars can be very useful IMO.