Changing transmission oil
#16
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Savy, good call on the paper clip. Like othes I was wondering how the heck to measure the 7mm but that's a pretty good idea. Tedious but acceptable.
John, thanks for the write-up, I've got Delvac sitting in the garage and I need to do this before it gets any colder around here (not that I'm actually driving the car right now though)![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
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John, thanks for the write-up, I've got Delvac sitting in the garage and I need to do this before it gets any colder around here (not that I'm actually driving the car right now though)
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for the 6GT3 note that:
the tightening torques remain the same, but when filled correctly, the oil level should be approx. 5 mm below the oil filler opening.
BTW I use a wrapped piece of clean paper to check, not perfect but at least I can see the oil on it. Also I must admit that before studying the manual, we've made a few changes without paying attention to the 5mm gap..
Also the filling capacity changes to a total of 3.3 litres with a tolerance of +0.1 litres and the oil change capacity is at 2.4 litres +0.1 litres.
Minor differences but they are in the WM..
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#17
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Just finished the gearbox oil change and I filled until it started to come out then reversed the dispenser to extract for just a quick second. Stuck a 90 degree pic int he opening and oil got on the tip a few mil below the fill opening. Good enough for me. It's better to be a few mil to full than a few mil to low! Besides, I'm confused why the 6GT3 was fill to the bottom of the fill plug but the 7GT3 (same gearbox no?) but the 7GT3 is 7mil below
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#22
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The 996GT3 mk1 manual mentioned "to the bottom of the opening."
You probably have a copy of that scanned WS manual from UK that circles around the internet.
For some time I thought the MK2 was the same..but the PIWIS has the 5mm gap.
#24
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I saw post 16.
However, I have never seen the 5mil below the fill opening for the 6GT3. Was the WS page wrong that I had?
I wish there was a GOOD explanation as to where the 5 and 7 mil numbers came from. Also, what does the 5-7mil represent in terms of volume. Are we talking more than tenth or so of a liter?
However, I have never seen the 5mil below the fill opening for the 6GT3. Was the WS page wrong that I had?
I wish there was a GOOD explanation as to where the 5 and 7 mil numbers came from. Also, what does the 5-7mil represent in terms of volume. Are we talking more than tenth or so of a liter?
#25
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Just finished the change.
Neither the drain plug nor the fill plug had the aluminum washers. I was conflicted on putting them on. Since they weren't there originally, I didn't put them in. Any comments on this? Should I be worried? Does the factory not put the washer in and only expect to have the washer installed after the plug is removed?
Also, the job was made very simple with the use of the 10mm Torque Extender. I also measured the level using my little paperclip tool, and it was around 7 mm below the bottom of the fill hole. I did this to make sure when I filled it, I filled it to the same level at which I found it.
Snap-On here: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Armstrong here: http://www.all-spec.com/products/Arm...47/64-710.html
I used a 10mm Hex Socket and knocked out the 1" hex key.
I also disconnected the sensor wire so it wouldn't get in the way when refilling.
Here are some pics:
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6603676255_5905493e24_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/6603673219_2fd492a601_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6603675133_d8430e6140_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6603668181_6d256cf8b3_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7003/6603667137_4daa9492b1_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6603671197_bbe4a22406_z.jpg)
Neither the drain plug nor the fill plug had the aluminum washers. I was conflicted on putting them on. Since they weren't there originally, I didn't put them in. Any comments on this? Should I be worried? Does the factory not put the washer in and only expect to have the washer installed after the plug is removed?
Also, the job was made very simple with the use of the 10mm Torque Extender. I also measured the level using my little paperclip tool, and it was around 7 mm below the bottom of the fill hole. I did this to make sure when I filled it, I filled it to the same level at which I found it.
Snap-On here: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Armstrong here: http://www.all-spec.com/products/Arm...47/64-710.html
I used a 10mm Hex Socket and knocked out the 1" hex key.
I also disconnected the sensor wire so it wouldn't get in the way when refilling.
Here are some pics:
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7148/6603676255_5905493e24_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/6603673219_2fd492a601_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/6603675133_d8430e6140_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7025/6603668181_6d256cf8b3_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7003/6603667137_4daa9492b1_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6603671197_bbe4a22406_z.jpg)
![](http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7008/6603669047_25570a7331_b.jpg)
#26
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good idea, Or a 9o degree pik or needle nose.
Very funny but very true, Ive been there before. Seem so stupid but not getting that open can be a nightmare. Those drain plus and fill plug over time can be a siezed SOB. Almost welded in. Ive broken off 17mm hex/allen keys all kinds of drauma from older cars. In 997 I cant see it being an issue yet but you all know how alum corrodes white. Pb blaster/liquid wrench the night before can make things a world easer. Again with newer cars it shouldnt be an issue yet.
thats all we ever used to use when working in the shop. Ive done this job about 100 times at work on vw's bimmers and so on.. i dont miss it for a second. when this stuffs used it stinks like hell and getting it off your hands when you dont use gloves sucks. Some potent oils.
The single most important piece of information that I see in John's wonderful How-To manual is that he puts loosen the fill plug before drain the gearbox in his instructions. I don't know how many DIYers have had to have their cars towed to the dealer over the years because they drained the box and then for some reason or other couldn't get the fill plug out...
Oil gearbox oil I use is Mobil Delvac 75W-90: LINK
Taken from the page writeup:
The replacement for the Mobilube 75W-90 SHC gear lube. Delvac has been market name used in USA towards the semi/fleet maintenance market segment. Hard to find in gallon containers, but we stock it.
Original fill in 996/997 GT3/Cup cars, and GT3Rs. Works well in all 901, 915, G50, G96 gearboxes. Used extensively in Porsche Motorsport products in every grueling test there can be LeMans, Sebring, Daytona, etc. We also use it in our service department in all street and race cars. Works in cars with or without (LSD) limited slip differentials.
Great lube, surpasses all others in research and development.
Mobil Delvac 75W-90 is a fully synthetic drivetrain lubricant engineered to meet the most demanding extended drain and OEM warranty requirements. These products are designed for use in heavy duty drivetrains that require gear lubricants with excellent load-carrying capability and where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected. The state-of-the-art technology in Mobil Delvac 75W-90 delivers unequalled performance for low and high temperature applications, including outstanding oxidation stability, wear protection, corrosion resistance, improved shear stability, extended service capability, and excellent fuel economy.
meets or exceeds the following industry requirements:
API GL-5
API MT-1
SAE J2360
This is NOT the same formula that is available in mass market auto parts stores in quart bottles.
Sold in 1 gallon containers.
Taken from the page writeup:
The replacement for the Mobilube 75W-90 SHC gear lube. Delvac has been market name used in USA towards the semi/fleet maintenance market segment. Hard to find in gallon containers, but we stock it.
Original fill in 996/997 GT3/Cup cars, and GT3Rs. Works well in all 901, 915, G50, G96 gearboxes. Used extensively in Porsche Motorsport products in every grueling test there can be LeMans, Sebring, Daytona, etc. We also use it in our service department in all street and race cars. Works in cars with or without (LSD) limited slip differentials.
Great lube, surpasses all others in research and development.
Mobil Delvac 75W-90 is a fully synthetic drivetrain lubricant engineered to meet the most demanding extended drain and OEM warranty requirements. These products are designed for use in heavy duty drivetrains that require gear lubricants with excellent load-carrying capability and where extreme pressures and shock loading are expected. The state-of-the-art technology in Mobil Delvac 75W-90 delivers unequalled performance for low and high temperature applications, including outstanding oxidation stability, wear protection, corrosion resistance, improved shear stability, extended service capability, and excellent fuel economy.
meets or exceeds the following industry requirements:
API GL-5
API MT-1
SAE J2360
This is NOT the same formula that is available in mass market auto parts stores in quart bottles.
Sold in 1 gallon containers.
#28
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Look at this for example:
![](http://julieszteiter.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/magnet.jpg)
I'm more concerned about the lack of the aluminum washers and whether it's correct to not install them since they weren't there in the first place.
#29
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crap!!! looks like my hair in the mornings ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
any thoughts on removing the oil cooler to get the old oil out of there too and if so, how to fill properly after that?
fill to the fill hole, run the car briefly then check and top up? any better ways?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
any thoughts on removing the oil cooler to get the old oil out of there too and if so, how to fill properly after that?
fill to the fill hole, run the car briefly then check and top up? any better ways?