Brake pad inspection/replacement
#1
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Never replaced brake pads before, but ready to start. I've got stock pads on ceramics. I have a pad spreader but otherwise no specialty tools for the job.
From this forum I think I've got most of the basics down, but a few lingering questions I have include:
1. Can you reliably inspect wear with pads in place, or is it necessary to remove them? If wear is reasonably even should I flip the pads on ceramics?
2. I am told ceramics want pads replaced at ~50% - how do I know when I'm at 50%?
3. Reservoir cap - do I need to open this during the process and remove fluid? Or just leave it on? Pump brake pedal after each corner? I have read different approaches here and not sure what to do.
4. Wear sensor wire. I want to remove this as I will be manually inspecting my pads and don't want to deal with a warning/sensor light. Just remove, zip tie, done?
5. Do you really replace the caliper bolts each time you replace pads? What about when you merely remove them to flip/inspect?
I also want to replace the stock fluid with something like Motul 600 or some other racing fluid. Is this easily done by a mechanical novice, and can anyone point me to a DIY?
THANK YOU for helping me do this for the first time!
Oh, I should add: sticking with ceramics for now! I know everyone will tell me to replace with steel. I am keeping this car, so really no need to shelve the ceramics for the day I decide to sell it. When they are gone I will replace with steel. Steel rotors not in the cards right now, from a domestic point of view, if you know what I mean....
From this forum I think I've got most of the basics down, but a few lingering questions I have include:
1. Can you reliably inspect wear with pads in place, or is it necessary to remove them? If wear is reasonably even should I flip the pads on ceramics?
2. I am told ceramics want pads replaced at ~50% - how do I know when I'm at 50%?
3. Reservoir cap - do I need to open this during the process and remove fluid? Or just leave it on? Pump brake pedal after each corner? I have read different approaches here and not sure what to do.
4. Wear sensor wire. I want to remove this as I will be manually inspecting my pads and don't want to deal with a warning/sensor light. Just remove, zip tie, done?
5. Do you really replace the caliper bolts each time you replace pads? What about when you merely remove them to flip/inspect?
I also want to replace the stock fluid with something like Motul 600 or some other racing fluid. Is this easily done by a mechanical novice, and can anyone point me to a DIY?
THANK YOU for helping me do this for the first time!
Oh, I should add: sticking with ceramics for now! I know everyone will tell me to replace with steel. I am keeping this car, so really no need to shelve the ceramics for the day I decide to sell it. When they are gone I will replace with steel. Steel rotors not in the cards right now, from a domestic point of view, if you know what I mean....
#2
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1. Yes, you can get a general idea of wear without removing the pads. Best to remove the tire since you can get your head around the to inspect with a bright light inside and outside pads also top and bottom of each.
2. I consider the pads almost gone when the pad material is the same thickness as the backing plate. My pagid RS29 backing plate is 5mm. I believe the minimum is 2mm or 3mm but this is probably too thin for my comfort especially if using on the track. New pads are approximately 13mm.
3. Before I start, I remove the screen in the reservior, get a sryinge with a tube connected and suck all the fluid from it. Then I place new fluid in and connect my power bleeder (Motive Products). I put the remaining fluid into the power bleeder. Then pump it to 10-15 psi. Open the bleeders with bleeder bottle connected to nipple starting at the wheel furthest from the reservior (passenger rear).
4. If you are tracking the car no need for wear sensors. Not sure my shop got rid of them.
5. Caliper bolts are not removed to inspect pads. Pads are removed by c type clip on a non-threaded bolt. Most challenging thing is the metal clip on the pads.
6. Flipping pads not normally needed to be done. Usually can inspect without removal. If uneven wear I have flipped then bedded them back in with no issues.
Oh, just read you have ceramics but I would assume process is the same. I believe the DYI section has information or Renntech. Good luck, fairly easy to do just get a Motive Bleeder with proper Euoropean fitting, bleeder bottle and you should be good to go. I run Castrol SRF and have been happy.
Steve
2. I consider the pads almost gone when the pad material is the same thickness as the backing plate. My pagid RS29 backing plate is 5mm. I believe the minimum is 2mm or 3mm but this is probably too thin for my comfort especially if using on the track. New pads are approximately 13mm.
3. Before I start, I remove the screen in the reservior, get a sryinge with a tube connected and suck all the fluid from it. Then I place new fluid in and connect my power bleeder (Motive Products). I put the remaining fluid into the power bleeder. Then pump it to 10-15 psi. Open the bleeders with bleeder bottle connected to nipple starting at the wheel furthest from the reservior (passenger rear).
4. If you are tracking the car no need for wear sensors. Not sure my shop got rid of them.
5. Caliper bolts are not removed to inspect pads. Pads are removed by c type clip on a non-threaded bolt. Most challenging thing is the metal clip on the pads.
6. Flipping pads not normally needed to be done. Usually can inspect without removal. If uneven wear I have flipped then bedded them back in with no issues.
Oh, just read you have ceramics but I would assume process is the same. I believe the DYI section has information or Renntech. Good luck, fairly easy to do just get a Motive Bleeder with proper Euoropean fitting, bleeder bottle and you should be good to go. I run Castrol SRF and have been happy.
Steve
#3
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Thx for the info.
Regarding #5, my understanding was that Porsche recommends replacing the caliper bolts when pads are changed....but I am definitely not sure of this.
Regarding #5, my understanding was that Porsche recommends replacing the caliper bolts when pads are changed....but I am definitely not sure of this.
#4
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+1 on the Motive break bleeder. I have had mine for over 10 years. Sure makes bleeding and flushing a one person job. IMHO Porsche recommends to change the bolts as a safety measure. I just inspect mine for any wear and reuse. I just use tie wraps and secure my sensor wires up out of the way. FYI I also run PCCB. Love 'em and they are holding up very well.
#5
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I assume the Motive Black Label European Bleader is the Motive model you guys are using - started looking around there must be over a dozen different models with various options.
#6
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#7
Nordschleife Master
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Porsche recommends new
I had cup car studs installed front and back, problem solved
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#8
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You cant just remove the wear sensor from the plug. You either have to tie them to the strut, or cut them just past the connector and connect the wires together in order to complete the circuit.