Odd Toyo Wear
11-22-2011, 11:39 AM
#16
Nordschleife Master
Qty 2 http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...996-detail.htm
Qty 2http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...5#ITEM_3046675
Qty 4http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...-ea-detail.htm
Qty 2http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...bmp-detail.htm
Qty 2http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...t01-detail.htm
Stuff I have in garage and will put on over Christmas
Qty 2http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...3#ITEM_1213443
11-22-2011, 11:50 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
OK, ballers have all the cool stuff, but what do I really need?
That's a lot of $ for stuff and I don't even understand what it does.
And I do want to keep my car nice and comfy on the street.
That's a lot of $ for stuff and I don't even understand what it does.
And I do want to keep my car nice and comfy on the street.
11-22-2011, 12:20 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
He explained it to me all, and can tell you the kust have
I'd say toe arms (think you already have) LCA bearing. dog bones at a minimum
I just got lucky on this stuff....bought from Savy's garage sale
11-22-2011, 12:38 PM
#19
Peter,
You already have the toe link, everything else is needed. I would buy this one from tarett Qty 2 http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...996-detail.htm
and the other arms are overpriced. They are all made off 6061 billet aluminum, and there are 2 bearings to be used. FK or Aurora. Aurora being the best of the 2.
All parts are needed in my opinion.
You already have the toe link, everything else is needed. I would buy this one from tarett Qty 2 http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...996-detail.htm
and the other arms are overpriced. They are all made off 6061 billet aluminum, and there are 2 bearings to be used. FK or Aurora. Aurora being the best of the 2.
All parts are needed in my opinion.
11-22-2011, 12:55 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
What because I have a LSD and Gurney flap??
You're confusing me with Randy, he has the whole list and LSD, you have some stuff in the suspenion, also Gurney, or did Orbit not have the time to put on all you must have cheater parts??
I'll look at Randy's and your shopping list for toold and bushings after April 15th.
You're confusing me with Randy, he has the whole list and LSD, you have some stuff in the suspenion, also Gurney, or did Orbit not have the time to put on all you must have cheater parts??
I'll look at Randy's and your shopping list for toold and bushings after April 15th.
11-22-2011, 01:06 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
Since when was I not stock Porsche....
LSD is Porsche part
solid mount is just for tire wear
No flaps on my front bumber
My exhaust loses power......I just have it on there to **** off erik
I sure if we put Jeff Burke on Peters car for a morning he would find all sorts of "modifications".......brake ducting, ect
Eddie....its a matter of days before you are 100% cheater
LSD is Porsche part
solid mount is just for tire wear
No flaps on my front bumber
My exhaust loses power......I just have it on there to **** off erik
I sure if we put Jeff Burke on Peters car for a morning he would find all sorts of "modifications".......brake ducting, ect
Eddie....its a matter of days before you are 100% cheater
11-22-2011, 01:07 PM
#26
What because I have a LSD and Gurney flap??
You're confusing me with Randy, he has the whole list and LSD, you have some stuff in the suspenion, also Gurney, or did Orbit not have the time to put on all you must have cheater parts??
I'll look at Randy's and your shopping list for toold and bushings after April 15th.
You're confusing me with Randy, he has the whole list and LSD, you have some stuff in the suspenion, also Gurney, or did Orbit not have the time to put on all you must have cheater parts??
I'll look at Randy's and your shopping list for toold and bushings after April 15th.
You're a cheater with the aero mods LSD, braking ducts, etc.
I'm stock, not even toe or camber control arms.
11-22-2011, 01:31 PM
#27
Since when was I not stock Porsche....
LSD is Porsche part
solid mount is just for tire wear
No flaps on my front bumber
My exhaust loses power......I just have it on there to **** off erik
I sure if we put Jeff Burke on Peters car for a morning he would find all sorts of "modifications".......brake ducting, ect
Eddie....its a matter of days before you are 100% cheater
LSD is Porsche part
solid mount is just for tire wear
No flaps on my front bumber
My exhaust loses power......I just have it on there to **** off erik
I sure if we put Jeff Burke on Peters car for a morning he would find all sorts of "modifications".......brake ducting, ect
Eddie....its a matter of days before you are 100% cheater
You are just seen things from a different perspective.
Will take me a while until I can make this one a cheater.
I'll keep it mostly stock, just with the arms and a few solid bushings, the springs are also on my future, but not now, as I want to enjoy the car on the streets.
Good source for BBS Wheels was found. All I can say is that is cheaper or at least in pair with the ''other'' aftermarket wheels.
11-22-2011, 01:46 PM
#28
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You all need the Tarett/RSS/GMG monoball parts for LCA, upper dog bones and metal bushings in the LCA.
Back in 2005, I tested my 996 GT3 at Pocono North without and with these monoball parts. A 60 secs lap saw a 0.7 seconds improvement, but the best part was the car becoming easier to drive at the limits. My 996 was very easy to drive, these monoballs parts + Moton and extra caster.
All the stock rubber bushings flex, causing additional dynamic unwanted toe/camber/caster changes, these monoballs/metal bushings eliminate the extra movements, and reduce the range of unwanted motion to just what the tire cause.
Easier to drive car, more predictable, better tire wear, and a little faster speeds. This is why replacing bushings move you up the points and classing in the NASA and SCCA competition classes (TT, Solo, etc), they really help.
Mike, the R888 wear is just fine. This is typical track setup wear on a street driven car. You should not use the R888 for daily driving. When done for the day at the track, inflate them to 44 psi cold, you are running way too low pressures as shown in the arrow mark, and that damages the sidewalls. Been there, done that.
Back in 2005, I tested my 996 GT3 at Pocono North without and with these monoball parts. A 60 secs lap saw a 0.7 seconds improvement, but the best part was the car becoming easier to drive at the limits. My 996 was very easy to drive, these monoballs parts + Moton and extra caster.
All the stock rubber bushings flex, causing additional dynamic unwanted toe/camber/caster changes, these monoballs/metal bushings eliminate the extra movements, and reduce the range of unwanted motion to just what the tire cause.
Easier to drive car, more predictable, better tire wear, and a little faster speeds. This is why replacing bushings move you up the points and classing in the NASA and SCCA competition classes (TT, Solo, etc), they really help.
Mike, the R888 wear is just fine. This is typical track setup wear on a street driven car. You should not use the R888 for daily driving. When done for the day at the track, inflate them to 44 psi cold, you are running way too low pressures as shown in the arrow mark, and that damages the sidewalls. Been there, done that.
11-22-2011, 05:57 PM
#29
Race Director
Thread Starter
11-22-2011, 06:01 PM
#30
Race Director
Thread Starter
Mike, the R888 wear is just fine. This is typical track setup wear on a street driven car. You should not use the R888 for daily driving. When done for the day at the track, inflate them to 44 psi cold, you are running way too low pressures as shown in the arrow mark, and that damages the sidewalls. Been there, done that.
Do you think these R888's are still safe for 1 more track day?
On the drive over should I bump up the pressure higher?