where is best place to buy R6's and PCCB pads?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
where is best place to buy R6's and PCCB pads?
Where is the best place to buy R6's and PCCB pads?
2010 GT3 with PCCB and 18" BBS wheels
I am going through my R6's about every 3 to 5 track days and my same for my brake pads (stock PCCBs). This is getting expensive. Where is cheapest place to buy these tires and pads? I am located in Arlington, VA. Somewhere local or mail order? Ideas, please?
Thanks
2010 GT3 with PCCB and 18" BBS wheels
I am going through my R6's about every 3 to 5 track days and my same for my brake pads (stock PCCBs). This is getting expensive. Where is cheapest place to buy these tires and pads? I am located in Arlington, VA. Somewhere local or mail order? Ideas, please?
Thanks
#2
What's the wear and heat pattern like on the R6's. Shoulder wear and nything less than five days suggests camber or inflation mistakes.
For tires, I suggest finding a local Hoosier distributor sponsoring local teams. www.hoosiertire.com otherwise, tirerack.com is very good and usually has stock on hand in 19's.
For pads, suncoast or any of the Rennlist sponsors will save a few bucks -- only use the factory fitment stock pads on PCCBs.
For tires, I suggest finding a local Hoosier distributor sponsoring local teams. www.hoosiertire.com otherwise, tirerack.com is very good and usually has stock on hand in 19's.
For pads, suncoast or any of the Rennlist sponsors will save a few bucks -- only use the factory fitment stock pads on PCCBs.
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
I get excellent wear out of the R6's. No shoulder wear. I have a track setup on the car. I rotate the wheels after 2, 3 or 4 sessions (depending on how enthusiastic I feel about it that day). I could probably could go 20+ sessions (maybe even more) but the heat cycles kill the grip much sooner than the rubber wears away.
#4
It's about time you switched to steel. You'll get much better pad wear. I just changed my front pads, Pagid RS19, which I put on in March and got roughly 14 days. When I ran the PCCB's with stock pads I couldn't get two events out of them.....4-5 days max.
#5
I get excellent wear out of the R6's. No shoulder wear. I have a track setup on the car. I rotate the wheels after 2, 3 or 4 sessions (depending on how enthusiastic I feel about it that day). I could probably could go 20+ sessions (maybe even more) but the heat cycles kill the grip much sooner than the rubber wears away.
I also suspect that the heat of understeer and oversteer do harm (and prevent the tire from peak grip) so you might consider any tracks where there are sweepers and take hot pit tire temps without a cool down.
I think it's reasonable to see the peak grip drop off after 20 cycles (!) so unless you've got the budget or the need to strive for personal best times every session, there's ample fun driving to be had on an R6 as it falls off its best.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Do those days really count if you are sidelined with flat tires and broken turbine thingys?
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
thanks BMAN, now go get a real GT -- 3 not 2!
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#10
X3 - Paul's a supporter of PCA, a racer and knows his ****e. He took a close look at the flat I had, took the wheel apart and repaired it. It only cost me the price of new HO's.
#11
Suncoast pricing on PCCB pads is nearly impossible to beat. Their UPS prices however are exorbitant so be sure to look at final total pricing when shopping.
Tirerack offer heat cycling which @ $15 a tire is a heck of a value. I toured their warehouse in Sparks NV last week and saw how they did it. Actually mount the tires to wheels and run in on an electric motor drive roller device until tire comes to temp. Then, in the 48 hours or so it takes for the tire to transport to you, voila'!, it is properly heat cycled. For those who don't Hoosier advises one week is the optimal rest time for the first (approx 20 minute!) HC.
Tirerack offer heat cycling which @ $15 a tire is a heck of a value. I toured their warehouse in Sparks NV last week and saw how they did it. Actually mount the tires to wheels and run in on an electric motor drive roller device until tire comes to temp. Then, in the 48 hours or so it takes for the tire to transport to you, voila'!, it is properly heat cycled. For those who don't Hoosier advises one week is the optimal rest time for the first (approx 20 minute!) HC.
#14
Rennlist Member
The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of no more than 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate.
During the initial run-in process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 4-7 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 7-10 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as pos- sible on the last lap without “shocking” the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible.
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not “the next day”). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
During the initial run-in process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 4-7 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 7-10 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as pos- sible on the last lap without “shocking” the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible.
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not “the next day”). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
The first time a competition tire is used is the most important. During that run, its tread compound is stretched, some of the weaker bonds between the rubber molecules will be broken (which generates some of the heat). If the tires are initially run too hard or too long, some of the stronger bonds will also be broken which will reduces the tire's grip and wear qualities. Running new tires through an easy heat cycle first, and allowing them to relax allows the rubber bonds to relink in a more uniform manner than they were originally manufactured. It actually makes them more consistent in strength and more resistant to losing their strength the next time they are used. An important heat cycling step is that after being brought up to temperature, the tires require a minimum of 24 to 48 hours to relax and reform the bonds between their rubber molecules.
#15
Rennlist Member
Dredging up an old thread....
I would be curious to see how many heat cycles (or approximately how many track days) folks are getting out of their R6s.
OP:
1) 3-5 days on stock pads seems crazy! I would expect more than than, and have personally seen than that (although with probably more conservative braking than you). How much thickness remains when you change them?
2) sorry again about my ceramics!
I would be curious to see how many heat cycles (or approximately how many track days) folks are getting out of their R6s.
OP:
1) 3-5 days on stock pads seems crazy! I would expect more than than, and have personally seen than that (although with probably more conservative braking than you). How much thickness remains when you change them?
2) sorry again about my ceramics!
Last edited by drl; 01-05-2012 at 04:38 PM.