Been searching around for front rotor options as I'm coming due soon.

ATE makes a sturdy slotted rotor replacement. Its actually a Cayenne part, but the fitment is direct.

http://www.imgt3performance.com/prod...Id=166&F_All=Y

The only downside is there are no holes for the set screws. If that's even considered a downside.... IMGT3 parts said they would actually drill a batch if there was enough interest. You don't need the set screws but it makes install easier.

At $130 per rotor, that's a great price. The longevity seems to be here too. The 996 GT3 guys have been using and tracking on these for some time now with great success.

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...s-for-gt3.html

Are there enough people interested to have IMGT3 pre-drill a batch of these? I know I'm in for a couple sets at these prices. $260 a set vs $600 for the next cheapest alternative (Demann).

 

What do those screws even do? I don't think you should bother, just buy these cheapo's and laugh all the way to the bank :-)

Tell them to find me some .2 alternatives. Cheapest I found and bought is PFC $500.00 per replacement disc! Also had to invest in the hats ofcourse.

 

They make it easier to mount rotors if you're not using studs. Some say the rotors (in general) aren't completely hubcentric so it keeps them in place. Most call BS on that saying the wheel bolts and calipers are really what keep them where they need to be. I'll probably give them a go regardless, but it might be nice to use the set screws just cause Some people are reporting and easy 12-14 days on these rotors with no problems. That's a bargain!

 

The set screw is like 1/4" long and as thin as a pencil. It's completely useless for anything other than holding the rotor in place while you put the caliper back on Just ignore it. Or follow through on your other thread and get studs.

-td

 

We know those fit the 6GT3 (both steel / PCCB, identical fitment), but has it been verified that it works on the 7.1 GT3 as well?

 

im still on the 3 sets of Protosports i got from Mooty!

 

all rotors in all Porsches sport cars since the Boxster are hubcentric.

My Cayenne Turbo rotors last forever, but I don't track it. If those rotors are ok for my 450Hp Twin Turbo almost 10,000 lbs (when towing) Porsche SUV, they should be more than fine for the underpowered and light 3.6 GT3.

 

They are only about $100 each on Amazon.com. They are slightly heavier than the Motorsport or the Factory rotor. But they are also 1/3 the cost. We are going to try a set on a customers 997S racecar for his next maintenance cycle.

 

The steel rotors on the 996 GT3 and the 997 GT3 are the same. I'm using 996 GT3 cup rotors on my 997.

 

Interesting.. that also means you can run the 996 PCCB if you want (not saying you'd want to, but just saying)...

 

Been using the ATE Cayenne discs on the 6 3 for 4 days now, and they are great.

ONLY downside is the weight (from the other thread):

- ATE Cayenne 350mm (going on): 27 lbs
- Brembo 2-piece floaters (coming off): 21.5 lbs
- OEM Porsche GT3 drilled: 24 lbs

 

I haven't "won" a DE yet so I can live with the extra weight for the durability and price savings.

 

Porsche must think that we are completely insane or at least schizophrenic. We insist on the lightest possible parts. They come up with ceramic carbon fiber brakes which save around 4 lbs of rotating mass at each wheel, which is huge, because rotating unsprung mass (we are told) is the equivalent of 6-7 times sprung mass. We spend thousands of dollars on lightweight seats, lightweight exhaust systems. We even specify lightweight headlights. We install lightweight batteries, although maybe not the Porsche model.We now discover that we can use the rotor from the VW Touareg which weighs like 5 lbs more per wheel and we think this is great because it's cheaper. There are so many ways that these cars could be made more cheaply...but we've all bought GT3s for a reason. Was it to save money by installing cheap, heavy rotors?

 

^
To me, there's a serious difference between overall lightness and cost for consumable lightness. If I was tossing $1000 batteries every other month, I'd opt for a cheaper alternative. Same with seats or exhaust. If there is no safety concern, I have no problem justifying substantial financial savings for minimal cost to performance.

Now, if I was in a race series with sponsors and unlimited funds, I would probably go for ultra light everything. But this is the real world, and I'm driving in a DE. The cars perform spectacularly with an extra 3 lbs per corner...

-td

 

What he said I can go through a couple three sets of rotors a year. If the performance loss is negligible with the heavier rotors, why pay the extra money?