tcsracing1

If you want your GT2 to be a CUP contender then i suggest the following;

Full Clubsport Cage, remove interior.
Harnesses
GT2 seats or Carrera GT seats
LSD
OMP CUP steering wheel
Throw the Tarrett catalog at your suspension.
Shocks of your choice
free flow exhaust
computer tune
plexi rear and quarter windows

Corner balance, bump steer and align properly.

My alignment specs are a constant project in motion. Not sure what they currently are however i know it wears the inner rear tires if only used on the street.

TPC Racing

Regarding our shop car and the 5 or so other 997 GT2s that come through here we made the most change in setting up the diff and doing some spring changes... The car already is a fantastic performer and comes some of the best parts already!

Happy to offer insight if you are interested.

cparkin@tpcracing.com

mdrums

I don't know the OP's skill level but I'd suggest you get a top level pro drive in your car for some laps. If you are as fast as the pro then go after the mods....if not as fast then you know what part of this you need to mod.

utkinpol

all solid steel monoball arms/dogbones is good stuff to have but as of bumpsteer arms - their install is not as simple as direct blind bolt-on and if car is not lowered and modded to the level to steer properly as cup car does it better be left alone within acceptable riding height that does not compromise stock design and allows stock arms geometry to work right.

mods level where you 'need' bumpsteer etc stuff is when you roll up fenders, drop car way down to cup car height and rework whole suspension to cup car level. if you use gt3 level stock parts - do not lower it too much and if there is no good pro shop around that knows how to put on bumpsteer parts - do not do it.

TTurbine

Gaurds 40/60 helped me shave around 2-3 seconds on my home race track.. thats probably due to the higher confidence it gave me under braking and corner exit the car is very well planted.

For my setup i went with Mantheys KW suspension set up with -3 camber in front +1 toe and -2.3 camber on the rear with +2.5 toe on both sides , wich is a little exsessive but plants the cars rear very well...

from my experiance i usualy run the car on 4th gear at 90-100 mph turns the car feels much more stable at higher gear and has lots of torque for corner exit...

GTSilver

What spring changes can you elaborate more please ? shocks or just springs ?

GTSilver

This is exactly what i want actually

But id like to ask you is Tarret a preference to you or are they better ? I dont want to start a debate but would like to know your opinion and also what parts should i get from tarret ?

Thanks.

GTSilver

TPC Racing - any updates ?

Savyboy - what parts did you go to with your car and how did it transform on the track ?

To clarify my car will be 95% track car so regarding road harshness and noise isnt an issue at all.

savyboy

For a 95% track car this is what I would do if I were doing it (again) from scratch:

1. Remove PASM, install Intrax coilovers. That will take care of your top shock mounts too (has them).
2. Motorsport or Tarrett monoballs front and rear (for LCA's).
3. Tarett drop links (f/r).
4. Tarett rear blade sway.
5. Tarett Adjustable thrust arm bushing kit ("caster pucks").
6. Tarett Spherical ended toe control arms (rear).
7. Tarett locking plate for toe links.

8. Money really no object...swap out the rear carriers for the GT2RS pieces which have the monoball lower shock mounts. That would be another $3000 or so including labor.

I would NOT do the rear upper control arm links. Leave OE.

Find a shop that does laser or string alignments, NOT machine alignments. Geometry specs will be primarily determined by the tire you will be using. More camber is NOT always a good thing. Set ride height based on horizontal lower control arms. Lower than that and you totally f'up everything.

Of course the GTGears LSD internals are part of the track set up.

Transformed the car into a total go-kart. Freaking incredible fun to drive. Neutral handling under any condition. Compliant yet tightly controlled body motion, it is firm but does not beat you to death. It could easily be street driven. The hardest part of the transformation is to find a shop capable of doing everything right

More info on my build at:
http://www.gt2gt3cup.org/showthread.php?t=129
and
http://www.gt2gt3cup.org/showthread.php?t=79

TB993tt

Can you say why please ?

TPC Racing

Sorry about the delay.

I should start by asking what your budget is. Your first post said you were trying to accomplish making the car flatter and gaining more traction.

You could start with a good alignment or convert your car to a cup car like pieces...

For the majority of GT2s that come through our shop, we make spring changes at the front and rear. We do this but milling the mounts on your car to accept 2.25"ID springs. We have gathered a lot of knowledge by setting our cars up to run at most east coast race tracks(eg. VIR, RA, LR, SP, RA and Barber).

That coupled w/re-ramping/plating the diff, adjusting your stock bars and setting the car to our specific alignment specs is a remarkable start and fairly easy on your wallet.

Or we could run 3 way JRZs and convert every piece of rubber in your car to something like a solid rod end making it fairly miserable to drive everywhere else but on the street.

The earlier suggestion is relatively simple for a decent parts changer to install. Just need to make sure the have a good alignment tech.

Z06

My home track is Mosport, with it's very fast and long rolling hills, it's 155mph straight which is named "Mario A" because none of it is straight.

If there was any issues with my suspension I would know.. I have the mono upper control arms as well as many other mono parts and it's rock solid.. no issues.

Cargraphic did alot of work getting these shocks right...it was easy to get this car sorted out.

TPC Racing

Your car looks a lot like ours Good taste!

Carrera GT

I think Savy covers all the "open checkbook" budget elements. I'd go jump in the parts bin and pull out all the GT2 RS suspension bits -- except I'd just leave PASM there until you budget on aftermarket dampers -- the main change is wider front track, remove compliance in the rear toe control and use a kit to replicate the wheel carrier geometry. Solid engine and trans mounts if not already there. And I'd go to a Guard diff before any of the expensive after-market stuff -- stuff that I don't think you'll appreciate from the helm. I'd suggest less is more and work incrementally (don't make a lot of changes at once.) As mentioned, just getting an experienced tech to set the ride height and alignment will make a world of difference, but until you put a diff in it, don't expect the car the hook up and sling shot out of the apexes.