GT2 suspension advice.
#1
GT2 suspension advice.
Hi,
I have a 997 GT2 and i love tracking the car but im having difficulties of putting the power down at corner exist and keep the car balanced through high speed turns and chicanes. I would love to improve the handling of my car and my lap times. and i'd really appreciate if you can give me a heads up and provide me with your opinions on how to improve my cars' handling.
I thought for a start to get these parts stated below to reduce body roll and improve feel of the car and to align the suspension more and to increase camber :
*GMG WORLD CHALLENGE - SPORT SWAY BAR KIT FOR 997GT2
*GMG GT Dog Bone Kit (Rear Upper A-Arm Link, Includes 4 Per Kit, 2 Left/Right Upper Arms Per Kit)
*GMG World Challenge bump steer kit- for rear- includes inner rod end.
*GMG World Challenge bump steer kit - Front
GMG WC Inner A Arm bearing kit for 996 and 997.
GMG GT Adjustable Thrust Arm Bushing Kit (Includes 4 Adjustable Bushings, Top/Bottom for 2 Control Arms)
*GMG RSR Adjustable thrust arm kit with anti dive and anti squat.
A Guard LSD, i think i might be going for 50/80.
Last thing is that im considering getting 997GT3/997GT3 RS Moton Club Sport Double Adjustable Shocks. To complete my suspension as the above parts may improve the handling but maybe not that much.
I would really appreciate your feedback and help if the above parts are worth having to improve the handling of my car and if you have notes or other things that i might consider instead please do tell.
Parts on my 997 GT2 include :
-FVD ecu tune
-catbypass pipes
-airfilter
-evo diverter valves
-cup cables
-lwfw with a sachs puck clutch
-stock wheels
I'll be running on MPSC mostly and hoosier r6 for competitions. I've been tracking my car for about a year or so and drive the car with SC off ( stability control ) and TC on ( traction ) most of the time.
Sorry for the long post but i again would really appreciate your advice and looking forward for your replays.
Thanks again.
I have a 997 GT2 and i love tracking the car but im having difficulties of putting the power down at corner exist and keep the car balanced through high speed turns and chicanes. I would love to improve the handling of my car and my lap times. and i'd really appreciate if you can give me a heads up and provide me with your opinions on how to improve my cars' handling.
I thought for a start to get these parts stated below to reduce body roll and improve feel of the car and to align the suspension more and to increase camber :
*GMG WORLD CHALLENGE - SPORT SWAY BAR KIT FOR 997GT2
*GMG GT Dog Bone Kit (Rear Upper A-Arm Link, Includes 4 Per Kit, 2 Left/Right Upper Arms Per Kit)
*GMG World Challenge bump steer kit- for rear- includes inner rod end.
*GMG World Challenge bump steer kit - Front
GMG WC Inner A Arm bearing kit for 996 and 997.
GMG GT Adjustable Thrust Arm Bushing Kit (Includes 4 Adjustable Bushings, Top/Bottom for 2 Control Arms)
*GMG RSR Adjustable thrust arm kit with anti dive and anti squat.
A Guard LSD, i think i might be going for 50/80.
Last thing is that im considering getting 997GT3/997GT3 RS Moton Club Sport Double Adjustable Shocks. To complete my suspension as the above parts may improve the handling but maybe not that much.
I would really appreciate your feedback and help if the above parts are worth having to improve the handling of my car and if you have notes or other things that i might consider instead please do tell.
Parts on my 997 GT2 include :
-FVD ecu tune
-catbypass pipes
-airfilter
-evo diverter valves
-cup cables
-lwfw with a sachs puck clutch
-stock wheels
I'll be running on MPSC mostly and hoosier r6 for competitions. I've been tracking my car for about a year or so and drive the car with SC off ( stability control ) and TC on ( traction ) most of the time.
Sorry for the long post but i again would really appreciate your advice and looking forward for your replays.
Thanks again.
#2
those part will def. help on alignment and steering feedback. Go to a good race shop, corner balance and align the car. I drive a GT2 also, but 996, my car make some decent power and I have no traction problem at all. The diff, is a BIG improvement, but more on the braking zones.
The GT2 is not the easiest car to drive, but also is not bad at all. I would invest my money on a coach, before, you spend the money with sway bars and shocks.
The GT2 is not the easiest car to drive, but also is not bad at all. I would invest my money on a coach, before, you spend the money with sway bars and shocks.
#3
M3EvoBR - the problem is where i live there isnt any racing shops so everything will be done at the dealer, do you have an lsd on your car ? and what alignment settings do you run ?
Regarding coaching your right you cant stop learning, i've done many laps with more experienced drivers and also instructors at BIC ( bahrain international circuit ) where i track the car and also when i get the suspension figured out and balanced the car i'll do more laps with instructors to improve my driving.
Regarding coaching your right you cant stop learning, i've done many laps with more experienced drivers and also instructors at BIC ( bahrain international circuit ) where i track the car and also when i get the suspension figured out and balanced the car i'll do more laps with instructors to improve my driving.
#4
Hum ... that could turn things a little more difficult. My car has different geometry than yours, even with the uprights that I use, so alignment specs could be different. I could give you some advices regarding to shops.
Yes I have a LSD, I have an OS Giken differential, and I cant compare it with the Porsche Motorsports yet. I'll soon do this test. I personally like the way the OS Giken works is smooth but a strong differential.
My settings are:
front Camber - 2.7
Front toe - I'm not 100% sure, but very little toe out
Rear camber - 2.5
Rear toe 2mm in
I run 18'' wheels with Toyos RA-1.
Yes I have a LSD, I have an OS Giken differential, and I cant compare it with the Porsche Motorsports yet. I'll soon do this test. I personally like the way the OS Giken works is smooth but a strong differential.
My settings are:
front Camber - 2.7
Front toe - I'm not 100% sure, but very little toe out
Rear camber - 2.5
Rear toe 2mm in
I run 18'' wheels with Toyos RA-1.
#6
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My suggestion is this:
You need to get more use from your tire.
A good corner balance with aggressive track alignment will help squeeze every inch of grip from your tires.
Good Rear toes will help lock that aligment.
Adjust your sway bars too. I believe GT2 bars are good right out of the box for adjusting purposes.
Any shop running Cup cars can be your friend in this department.
You do not need to go out and start blowing money on shocks and stuff.
If you do want to start spending money on suspension jewelry check out Tarret
Engineering online or GMG etc... Make a wish list and find a shop that can actually install it to make it work.
I got everything they make under my RS and aligned accordingly.
My car may not be the fastest at the track but it handles the corners like a rabbit in sneakers.
You need to get more use from your tire.
A good corner balance with aggressive track alignment will help squeeze every inch of grip from your tires.
Good Rear toes will help lock that aligment.
Adjust your sway bars too. I believe GT2 bars are good right out of the box for adjusting purposes.
Any shop running Cup cars can be your friend in this department.
You do not need to go out and start blowing money on shocks and stuff.
If you do want to start spending money on suspension jewelry check out Tarret
Engineering online or GMG etc... Make a wish list and find a shop that can actually install it to make it work.
I got everything they make under my RS and aligned accordingly.
My car may not be the fastest at the track but it handles the corners like a rabbit in sneakers.
#7
Three Wheelin'
If you use TC, then on exit you are finding the computer coming on early is this the problem?
For High speed stability, corner balance, alignment as said above, shocks will help control the body from bouncing plus stock spring rates are too low.
Some mono ball parts, if you have lowered it then bump steer toe arms, toe locking plate, semi solid engine mount and 2 piece RSR control arms.
I also got my parts from Ira at Tarret, RSR control arms from Porsche Motorsports or Cargraphic has it on there web site.
I love the way my Cargraphic DA shocks work but had to rebuild them after I broke the rears, most likely from street driving over pot holes... after only one year.
If they break again I will go with Penske, similar design to bilstein.
For High speed stability, corner balance, alignment as said above, shocks will help control the body from bouncing plus stock spring rates are too low.
Some mono ball parts, if you have lowered it then bump steer toe arms, toe locking plate, semi solid engine mount and 2 piece RSR control arms.
I also got my parts from Ira at Tarret, RSR control arms from Porsche Motorsports or Cargraphic has it on there web site.
I love the way my Cargraphic DA shocks work but had to rebuild them after I broke the rears, most likely from street driving over pot holes... after only one year.
If they break again I will go with Penske, similar design to bilstein.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Maybe I'm crazy, but if you do not have a good local shop and are more or less stuck with just the Porsche dealer I would either fly in a mechanic and coach from a well respected shop that has GT2 experience for a week or so, or ship my car to a shop with some interesting tracks within driving distance. Think Germany/California/Florida.
Get data system on board, get coaching while learning to look at data, while setting up the car for your driving style.
Both you and the car would leap in improvements.
Get data system on board, get coaching while learning to look at data, while setting up the car for your driving style.
Both you and the car would leap in improvements.
#9
Three Wheelin'
I must agree as much as the hardware is important having someone capable of putting it together is a must, your local Porsche mechanic has to be motivated to get it perfect!
Data is important with video.
I found the 50/80 works better at Mosport, high speed track.
I am part of Team 6th Gear which races in the IMSA Gt3 Challenge, these mechanics own a local shop called Bestline Auto.
Data is important with video.
I found the 50/80 works better at Mosport, high speed track.
I am part of Team 6th Gear which races in the IMSA Gt3 Challenge, these mechanics own a local shop called Bestline Auto.
#10
tcsracing1 - what parts are you running on your car ? and what alignment settings have you gone with as the gt3rs and the gt2 i guess run the same settings ? and may you provide me with a link or pics with what you have done with your car, because at the end of the day im eventually going to gut my gt2 and make it as a street cup car.
#11
Maybe I'm crazy, but if you do not have a good local shop and are more or less stuck with just the Porsche dealer I would either fly in a mechanic and coach from a well respected shop that has GT2 experience for a week or so, or ship my car to a shop with some interesting tracks within driving distance. Think Germany/California/Florida.
Get data system on board, get coaching while learning to look at data, while setting up the car for your driving style.
Both you and the car would leap in improvements.
Get data system on board, get coaching while learning to look at data, while setting up the car for your driving style.
Both you and the car would leap in improvements.
Regarding the parts the dealer will be fine fitting them and from whoever tuner i buy the parts from tarret/gmg/etc they will probably have setup many gt2's in the past so they will provide me with settings as a start and from there i will fine tune it on the track to find the perfect setup or I contact any of the tuners that are willing to come to Bahrain to setup my car on the track.
I was thinking of getting racelogic vbox to collect data on the track.
#12
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I'd go with a coach like others have said before I dropped that amount of coin on mods. Your car is going to behave in an entirely new way with all those bits. Maybe a coach can help you in areas of the track you're having a tough time in.
#13
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I track a 997 GT2 so my experience might be helpful. For the most bang for the buck I would start with corner balance and alignment. I run camber of -2.5 degrees in the front and -2.0 degrees in the rear. Toe is zero in front and 0.25 degrees toe in per side in the rear. Next in order of importance, assuming you already have a roll bar and harness) are the monoball rear toe links and locking plates. Then I would do the Guard LSD--after a few track days the stock one will be toast anyway. I would also install the rear brake cooling ducts--they make a big difference in rotor life. Run the pilot sport cups at 33degrees front and 35 rear when hot and see how it goes. Anything else can wait as an incremental approach will allow you to measure improvements in performance. I also did all the rest of the suspension parts and Motons. It all helps a little but the first few items are most of the improvement is.
#14
Rennlist Member
I track a 997 GT2 so my experience might be helpful. For the most bang for the buck I would start with corner balance and alignment. I run camber of -2.5 degrees in the front and -2.0 degrees in the rear. Toe is zero in front and 0.25 degrees toe in per side in the rear. Next in order of importance, assuming you already have a roll bar and harness) are the monoball rear toe links and locking plates. Then I would do the Guard LSD--after a few track days the stock one will be toast anyway. I would also install the rear brake cooling ducts--they make a big difference in rotor life. Run the pilot sport cups at 33degrees front and 35 rear when hot and see how it goes. Anything else can wait as an incremental approach will allow you to measure improvements in performance. I also did all the rest of the suspension parts and Motons. It all helps a little but the first few items are most of the improvement is.
#15
I track a 997 GT2 so my experience might be helpful. For the most bang for the buck I would start with corner balance and alignment. I run camber of -2.5 degrees in the front and -2.0 degrees in the rear. Toe is zero in front and 0.25 degrees toe in per side in the rear. Next in order of importance, assuming you already have a roll bar and harness) are the monoball rear toe links and locking plates. Then I would do the Guard LSD--after a few track days the stock one will be toast anyway. I would also install the rear brake cooling ducts--they make a big difference in rotor life. Run the pilot sport cups at 33degrees front and 35 rear when hot and see how it goes. Anything else can wait as an incremental approach will allow you to measure improvements in performance. I also did all the rest of the suspension parts and Motons. It all helps a little but the first few items are most of the improvement is.
Perhaps also rear LCA monoballs. But forget the rest unless it is dedicated track car. Speaking from experience here. In fact, I recently removed my spherical ended rear upper links (dogbones/wishbones) and reinstalled the OE bushed links to reduce high-speed nervousness.
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