As Promised, Stupid GT3RS Questions Part I
04-10-2011, 11:46 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
As Promised, Stupid GT3RS Questions Part I
As you may recall, I just received my 2011 GT3RS. I have asked many questions of the group or looked up prior threads for answers on items like tire pressures, etc. Here are some items I am still curious about:
1) Cleaning the paint - Even on new cars, I always clay bar, then use an extreamly mild polish, then wax. All new cars I have still feel dirty until I clay bar, but this car is so clean and smooth, I am scared to even touch it. What did you guys do?
2) Alcantara - never had in before, I assume I leave it alone and clean with DI water if necessary at all.
3) As you may recall, my first trip to the track I am going almost bone stock, except for safety equipment (GMG Rollbar, Scroths, etc), and camber adjustment with corner weighting - I am not a racer, but I instruct for both the BMWCCA and PCA, do you run first weekend with everything on, SC only off, or SC and TC off. I realize this is an experience, confidence, et., etc., type question, hence the title of the post. I have never tracked a 911, last track car was a BMW Z4M Coupe.
4) Angle of attack of the rear wing - I assume for starters I should just leave it alone. Until I have a weekend or two, does it matter?
5) The owners manual does not call for an oil change after the break in. Thats insane, I am changing my oil before hitting the track.
6) I have a schedule to put the 2000 break in miles on the car, if I get almost there (1500+) is it safe to track it?
Thanks in Advance!
1) Cleaning the paint - Even on new cars, I always clay bar, then use an extreamly mild polish, then wax. All new cars I have still feel dirty until I clay bar, but this car is so clean and smooth, I am scared to even touch it. What did you guys do?
2) Alcantara - never had in before, I assume I leave it alone and clean with DI water if necessary at all.
3) As you may recall, my first trip to the track I am going almost bone stock, except for safety equipment (GMG Rollbar, Scroths, etc), and camber adjustment with corner weighting - I am not a racer, but I instruct for both the BMWCCA and PCA, do you run first weekend with everything on, SC only off, or SC and TC off. I realize this is an experience, confidence, et., etc., type question, hence the title of the post. I have never tracked a 911, last track car was a BMW Z4M Coupe.
4) Angle of attack of the rear wing - I assume for starters I should just leave it alone. Until I have a weekend or two, does it matter?
5) The owners manual does not call for an oil change after the break in. Thats insane, I am changing my oil before hitting the track.
6) I have a schedule to put the 2000 break in miles on the car, if I get almost there (1500+) is it safe to track it?
Thanks in Advance!
04-10-2011, 11:52 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Man, I likey that color combo.
1-2. Get clear bra all over that car and call car washer guy on Monday after. Tip him.
3 Why not start with everything on? If it starts interrupting turn it off at least for a few days. Once you found the limits turn it off so you are sure not to abuse brake pads. I use it in the rain.
4. I run max with Gurney and Cup splitter. Seems to be better on all tracks. Good for CUP car good for RS right? What track are you going to?
5. +1. I did and every 6 track days thereafter all fluids. Just to be sure.
6. I took mine to the track May of last year with much less miles on it, short sifted a bit. Just make sure you warm it up good before high RPM and shift slowly.
1-2. Get clear bra all over that car and call car washer guy on Monday after. Tip him.
3 Why not start with everything on? If it starts interrupting turn it off at least for a few days. Once you found the limits turn it off so you are sure not to abuse brake pads. I use it in the rain.
4. I run max with Gurney and Cup splitter. Seems to be better on all tracks. Good for CUP car good for RS right? What track are you going to?
5. +1. I did and every 6 track days thereafter all fluids. Just to be sure.
6. I took mine to the track May of last year with much less miles on it, short sifted a bit. Just make sure you warm it up good before high RPM and shift slowly.
04-11-2011, 12:02 AM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Man, I likey that color combo.
1-2. Get clear bra all over that car and call car washer guy on Monday after. Tip him.
3 Why not start with everything on? If it starts interrupting turn it off at least for a few days. Once you found the limits turn it off so you are sure not to abuse brake pads. I use it in the rain.
4. I run max with Gurney and Cup splitter. Seems to be better on all tracks. Good for CUP car good for RS right? What track are you going to?
5. +1. I did and every 6 track days thereafter all fluids. Just to be sure.
6. I took mine to the track May of last year with much less miles on it, short sifted a bit. Just make sure you warm it up good before high RPM and shift slowly.
1-2. Get clear bra all over that car and call car washer guy on Monday after. Tip him.
3 Why not start with everything on? If it starts interrupting turn it off at least for a few days. Once you found the limits turn it off so you are sure not to abuse brake pads. I use it in the rain.
4. I run max with Gurney and Cup splitter. Seems to be better on all tracks. Good for CUP car good for RS right? What track are you going to?
5. +1. I did and every 6 track days thereafter all fluids. Just to be sure.
6. I took mine to the track May of last year with much less miles on it, short sifted a bit. Just make sure you warm it up good before high RPM and shift slowly.
04-11-2011, 12:36 AM
#4
Advanced
1) Cleaning the paint - Even on new cars, I always clay bar, then use an extreamly mild polish, then wax. All new cars I have still feel dirty until I clay bar, but this car is so clean and smooth, I am scared to even touch it. What did you guys do?
2) Alcantara - never had in before, I assume I leave it alone and clean with DI water if necessary at all.
Thanks in Advance!
Best to use 2 sheepskin or microfiber wash mitts, and clay while you wash the car (with a good car shampoo) so you leave plenty of lubricant for the clay on the car. It also saves you a lot of money in buying "clay lube". Use the 2 bucket system (one with soap and one with clean water). Wash the whole car down once with 1 mitt, rinse off. Then use the other clean mitt with soap water, lather up the whole car and go panel by panel and clay the car. Keep the car wet and soapy at all times. When done, rinse off.
This works with clear-bra as well. Just make sure you do not get the clay too close to the edges or it will get clay pieces stuck in the bra. It can be annoying to get off.
Use a waffle weave microfiber towel to dry off the car.
I am personally a huge fan of Autoglym car care products, and they make some of the best out there.... (that's all I used when I detailed cars for about 7 years) The Radiant Wax Polish is a mild polish, cleaner and wax all in one. Buffs on easy, and buffs off easy. Great for wheels, and sometimes even on glass after cleaning to help the water bead off. Make sure you have a fine painters brush if you get wax on the clear-bra edges. Best to not let it sit as it will get crusty and be a pain to fix later.
For Alcantara, I just used to use a microfiber towel with a mild soap and mostly water to just pat clean. Then dry off.
04-11-2011, 02:35 AM
#5
As you may recall, I just received my 2011 GT3RS. I have asked many questions of the group or looked up prior threads for answers on items like tire pressures, etc. Here are some items I am still curious about:
1) Cleaning the paint - Even on new cars, I always clay bar, then use an extreamly mild polish, then wax. All new cars I have still feel dirty until I clay bar, but this car is so clean and smooth, I am scared to even touch it. What did you guys do?
2) Alcantara - never had in before, I assume I leave it alone and clean with DI water if necessary at all.
3) As you may recall, my first trip to the track I am going almost bone stock, except for safety equipment (GMG Rollbar, Scroths, etc), and camber adjustment with corner weighting - I am not a racer, but I instruct for both the BMWCCA and PCA, do you run first weekend with everything on, SC only off, or SC and TC off. I realize this is an experience, confidence, et., etc., type question, hence the title of the post. I have never tracked a 911, last track car was a BMW Z4M Coupe.
4) Angle of attack of the rear wing - I assume for starters I should just leave it alone. Until I have a weekend or two, does it matter?
5) The owners manual does not call for an oil change after the break in. Thats insane, I am changing my oil before hitting the track.
6) I have a schedule to put the 2000 break in miles on the car, if I get almost there (1500+) is it safe to track it?
Thanks in Advance!
1) Cleaning the paint - Even on new cars, I always clay bar, then use an extreamly mild polish, then wax. All new cars I have still feel dirty until I clay bar, but this car is so clean and smooth, I am scared to even touch it. What did you guys do?
2) Alcantara - never had in before, I assume I leave it alone and clean with DI water if necessary at all.
3) As you may recall, my first trip to the track I am going almost bone stock, except for safety equipment (GMG Rollbar, Scroths, etc), and camber adjustment with corner weighting - I am not a racer, but I instruct for both the BMWCCA and PCA, do you run first weekend with everything on, SC only off, or SC and TC off. I realize this is an experience, confidence, et., etc., type question, hence the title of the post. I have never tracked a 911, last track car was a BMW Z4M Coupe.
4) Angle of attack of the rear wing - I assume for starters I should just leave it alone. Until I have a weekend or two, does it matter?
5) The owners manual does not call for an oil change after the break in. Thats insane, I am changing my oil before hitting the track.
6) I have a schedule to put the 2000 break in miles on the car, if I get almost there (1500+) is it safe to track it?
Thanks in Advance!
: )
First, let me add my voice to the choir singing the praises of your (and any and all) 911's built paint to sample. Great stuff.
1. Every new car arrives in arguably the worst state of its life henceforth -- I know many new 911 buyers who make it a rule to send the car directly to a paint expert to have the car cleaned and sealed in their choice of chemicals, then variously wrapped in some or a lot of plastic film. Some go "nude" and I prefer that for any non-track car, otherwise, get it liberally lathered in plastic wrap. Don't be afraid to work on the paint -- be afraid of idiots masquerading as paint experts or film installers -- use the forum sites to find experts.
2. Alcantara is a synthetic -- it's tough and durable. I've had a lot of miles and lot of greasy paw prints here and there -- to my shock and horror -- but the detailer invariably returns the car in perfect condition.
3. I'd advocate DAS for the bar. The GMG bar has had some fitment, alignment and issues with the seat movement. GMG makes some good stuff, but that bar is not one of their achievements. As ever, in my humble.
Definitely get some belts and HANS or the neck-saver of your choice, especially if you're planning on really accessing the potential of the 3.8 RS -- no matter what you've ever driven, this car will amaze you. Apex speeds can be very high and lap times can be very low. Don't lose your head.
Don't worry about a corner weight until you get some miles on the dampers. Ride height is going to be good. Get the camber pulling a bit more negative to suit your speed and tire selection. Alignment will be wrong and should be reset by someone familiar with the car and not learning on the job.
If you're going to be tracking the car more than a handful of days, consider some suspension upgrades in the form of toe arms in the rear and perhaps other spherical joints if you want to go a step further -- use the GT2 RS upgrades as the baselines to see where the GT3 RS can benefit from the extra year or two of R&D.
Also true if you plan on more than occasional, medium paced days at the track, you should monitor PCCB rotor wear and be ready to put them on the shelf if they show any signs of losing their smooth veneer. Don't use race pads (Pagid P50 "Greens") and keep the rotors cool.
Leave the SC and TC on. Unless you're a hack, they'll never intervene. If you are a hack, you'll thank them for keeping you from destroying your car.
4. Leave the wing where it is -- it's already providing noticeable downforce and the rear of the car will stick like it's on rails. It's a great thing -- just take it off when you're on the street so you can see the flock of pigs trying to pace you for a speeding ticket.
5. In my experience of owning several GT3's and servicing a couple of dozen more, the oil and filters should come off before 2K miles. In each of my cars, the oil was "ready" to come out at 1500 miles (as was the transaxle/gearbox.) Once done after the initial miles to carry away all the production line junk and initial break-in, the oil remains clear of any symptomatic content.
6. Choose your own way as far as break-in driving -- I advocate the basics:
1. warm up before driving. Some cars will smoke on startup. Some won't. It's not a problem. It's not cool, but it's not a problem. The clutch will make a racket with the pedal released in neutral, but will be quiet with your foot on the pedal.
2. no lugging, no spinning, no high speeds, no high rpm, no hard acceleration, no aggressive downshifts. I suggest keeping above 2K rpm when accelerating (okay to coast at 1500 rpm or whatever) and do not exceed a vertical (twelve o'clock high) position on the tack) for say 500 miles.
3. smooth on the throttle, never more than 20-40% max (I assure that's still a helluva quick pace on street or track)
4. vary everything -- no cruise control, no steady throttle position, no sitting in same gear -- be continuously moving from 3rd to 6th during any given 15 minute period, continuously gaining and losing speed. Of course, be mindful of traffic and avoid appearing to be narcoleptic.
You might care to keep up the break-in driving forever (1500 or 3000 miles) or whatever suits your way. I keep it up until I get to the track the first chance I get. But I want at least 500 miles on it.
If you can cover 1500 miles, then change oil in the engine and box, I think you've done your duty to give the mechanicals a good upbringing and now they're ready to earn their keep.
The other part of the break-in is the brakes -- bed the pads as per normal (I use the stoptech formula, I've posted on this in the past.) Once you have pad material on the rotors (steel or ceramics) be sure (very sure) to clear the cross bore holes between sessions. Don't apex brake -- always brake in a straight line and trail. If you can't do a full cool down lap or there's high ambient temps, do 5 minutes of 25 mph cruising around the side roads of the track (not in the paddock where you'll run over someone's dog or kid or jackstand and damage your RS.)
If you have the lightweight battery, keep it on the Porsche tender and take note of how energetically it cranks on a cold start from day to day.
If you're driving track or bumpy roads, keep an eye on the undercarriage in case you lose a brake duct.
Make sure the centerlock wheels are properly lubricated and torque-re-torqued off the ground.
Keep a visual on power steering lines and coolant fittings on the engine.
04-11-2011, 03:20 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
^ All the above. Plus a few thoughts:
3. SC & TC aren't that intrusive in the Gen 2 cars. And when they do intervene the dash will light up to let you know. Since you mentioned you're new to 911s better play safe and keep the systems on, at least until you develop a feel for the pendulum that is our 911s. In my own experience I've been able to lap my home track with both SC & TC on, not trigger the traction light once and still shave 3 seconds off my previous best in a Gen 1 with TC Off. And just to give you a sense of how "loose" the system is, the car can be easily provoked into lift-off oversteer with all safeties on.
4. The wing is not customer-serviceable. Not that I know, at least. Judging from the way they're mounted I think changing the angle would require changing the upright aluminum mounts. That, plus you'll need the cup splitter in the front to balance the added downforce in the rear.
5. Change the oil. Period.
6. Mine hit the track at 1,200kms. Run the car reasonably but run it thoroughly. Complete warm up everytime (not just water but oil and gearbox), don't lug the engine in low revs. Do multiple low-to-mid range pulls in the first 10 engine hours to help seat everything and gradually build that up to the redline. There was a notable increase in power after my 3rd or 4th hour and flywheel chatter got louder around the same time (I remember initially thinking to myself that the factory might made the flywheel quieter when I took delivery... happy to have proven myself wrong!)
Enjoy your new car. It's a lovely color and a very special RS.
3. SC & TC aren't that intrusive in the Gen 2 cars. And when they do intervene the dash will light up to let you know. Since you mentioned you're new to 911s better play safe and keep the systems on, at least until you develop a feel for the pendulum that is our 911s. In my own experience I've been able to lap my home track with both SC & TC on, not trigger the traction light once and still shave 3 seconds off my previous best in a Gen 1 with TC Off. And just to give you a sense of how "loose" the system is, the car can be easily provoked into lift-off oversteer with all safeties on.
4. The wing is not customer-serviceable. Not that I know, at least. Judging from the way they're mounted I think changing the angle would require changing the upright aluminum mounts. That, plus you'll need the cup splitter in the front to balance the added downforce in the rear.
5. Change the oil. Period.
6. Mine hit the track at 1,200kms. Run the car reasonably but run it thoroughly. Complete warm up everytime (not just water but oil and gearbox), don't lug the engine in low revs. Do multiple low-to-mid range pulls in the first 10 engine hours to help seat everything and gradually build that up to the redline. There was a notable increase in power after my 3rd or 4th hour and flywheel chatter got louder around the same time (I remember initially thinking to myself that the factory might made the flywheel quieter when I took delivery... happy to have proven myself wrong!)
Enjoy your new car. It's a lovely color and a very special RS.
04-11-2011, 03:35 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I say there are no stupid questions, only stupid people!
: )
First, let me add my voice to the choir singing the praises of your (and any and all) 911's built paint to sample. Great stuff.
1. Every new car arrives in arguably the worst state of its life henceforth -- I know many new 911 buyers who make it a rule to send the car directly to a paint expert to have the car cleaned and sealed in their choice of chemicals, then variously wrapped in some or a lot of plastic film. Some go "nude" and I prefer that for any non-track car, otherwise, get it liberally lathered in plastic wrap. Don't be afraid to work on the paint -- be afraid of idiots masquerading as paint experts or film installers -- use the forum sites to find experts.
2. Alcantara is a synthetic -- it's tough and durable. I've had a lot of miles and lot of greasy paw prints here and there -- to my shock and horror -- but the detailer invariably returns the car in perfect condition.
3. I'd advocate DAS for the bar. The GMG bar has had some fitment, alignment and issues with the seat movement. GMG makes some good stuff, but that bar is not one of their achievements. As ever, in my humble.
Definitely get some belts and HANS or the neck-saver of your choice, especially if you're planning on really accessing the potential of the 3.8 RS -- no matter what you've ever driven, this car will amaze you. Apex speeds can be very high and lap times can be very low. Don't lose your head.
Don't worry about a corner weight until you get some miles on the dampers. Ride height is going to be good. Get the camber pulling a bit more negative to suit your speed and tire selection. Alignment will be wrong and should be reset by someone familiar with the car and not learning on the job.
If you're going to be tracking the car more than a handful of days, consider some suspension upgrades in the form of toe arms in the rear and perhaps other spherical joints if you want to go a step further -- use the GT2 RS upgrades as the baselines to see where the GT3 RS can benefit from the extra year or two of R&D.
Also true if you plan on more than occasional, medium paced days at the track, you should monitor PCCB rotor wear and be ready to put them on the shelf if they show any signs of losing their smooth veneer. Don't use race pads (Pagid P50 "Greens") and keep the rotors cool.
Leave the SC and TC on. Unless you're a hack, they'll never intervene. If you are a hack, you'll thank them for keeping you from destroying your car.
4. Leave the wing where it is -- it's already providing noticeable downforce and the rear of the car will stick like it's on rails. It's a great thing -- just take it off when you're on the street so you can see the flock of pigs trying to pace you for a speeding ticket.
5. In my experience of owning several GT3's and servicing a couple of dozen more, the oil and filters should come off before 2K miles. In each of my cars, the oil was "ready" to come out at 1500 miles (as was the transaxle/gearbox.) Once done after the initial miles to carry away all the production line junk and initial break-in, the oil remains clear of any symptomatic content.
6. Choose your own way as far as break-in driving -- I advocate the basics:
1. warm up before driving. Some cars will smoke on startup. Some won't. It's not a problem. It's not cool, but it's not a problem. The clutch will make a racket with the pedal released in neutral, but will be quiet with your foot on the pedal.
2. no lugging, no spinning, no high speeds, no high rpm, no hard acceleration, no aggressive downshifts. I suggest keeping above 2K rpm when accelerating (okay to coast at 1500 rpm or whatever) and do not exceed a vertical (twelve o'clock high) position on the tack) for say 500 miles.
3. smooth on the throttle, never more than 20-40% max (I assure that's still a helluva quick pace on street or track)
4. vary everything -- no cruise control, no steady throttle position, no sitting in same gear -- be continuously moving from 3rd to 6th during any given 15 minute period, continuously gaining and losing speed. Of course, be mindful of traffic and avoid appearing to be narcoleptic.
You might care to keep up the break-in driving forever (1500 or 3000 miles) or whatever suits your way. I keep it up until I get to the track the first chance I get. But I want at least 500 miles on it.
If you can cover 1500 miles, then change oil in the engine and box, I think you've done your duty to give the mechanicals a good upbringing and now they're ready to earn their keep.
The other part of the break-in is the brakes -- bed the pads as per normal (I use the stoptech formula, I've posted on this in the past.) Once you have pad material on the rotors (steel or ceramics) be sure (very sure) to clear the cross bore holes between sessions. Don't apex brake -- always brake in a straight line and trail. If you can't do a full cool down lap or there's high ambient temps, do 5 minutes of 25 mph cruising around the side roads of the track (not in the paddock where you'll run over someone's dog or kid or jackstand and damage your RS.)
If you have the lightweight battery, keep it on the Porsche tender and take note of how energetically it cranks on a cold start from day to day.
If you're driving track or bumpy roads, keep an eye on the undercarriage in case you lose a brake duct.
Make sure the centerlock wheels are properly lubricated and torque-re-torqued off the ground.
Keep a visual on power steering lines and coolant fittings on the engine.
: )
First, let me add my voice to the choir singing the praises of your (and any and all) 911's built paint to sample. Great stuff.
1. Every new car arrives in arguably the worst state of its life henceforth -- I know many new 911 buyers who make it a rule to send the car directly to a paint expert to have the car cleaned and sealed in their choice of chemicals, then variously wrapped in some or a lot of plastic film. Some go "nude" and I prefer that for any non-track car, otherwise, get it liberally lathered in plastic wrap. Don't be afraid to work on the paint -- be afraid of idiots masquerading as paint experts or film installers -- use the forum sites to find experts.
2. Alcantara is a synthetic -- it's tough and durable. I've had a lot of miles and lot of greasy paw prints here and there -- to my shock and horror -- but the detailer invariably returns the car in perfect condition.
3. I'd advocate DAS for the bar. The GMG bar has had some fitment, alignment and issues with the seat movement. GMG makes some good stuff, but that bar is not one of their achievements. As ever, in my humble.
Definitely get some belts and HANS or the neck-saver of your choice, especially if you're planning on really accessing the potential of the 3.8 RS -- no matter what you've ever driven, this car will amaze you. Apex speeds can be very high and lap times can be very low. Don't lose your head.
Don't worry about a corner weight until you get some miles on the dampers. Ride height is going to be good. Get the camber pulling a bit more negative to suit your speed and tire selection. Alignment will be wrong and should be reset by someone familiar with the car and not learning on the job.
If you're going to be tracking the car more than a handful of days, consider some suspension upgrades in the form of toe arms in the rear and perhaps other spherical joints if you want to go a step further -- use the GT2 RS upgrades as the baselines to see where the GT3 RS can benefit from the extra year or two of R&D.
Also true if you plan on more than occasional, medium paced days at the track, you should monitor PCCB rotor wear and be ready to put them on the shelf if they show any signs of losing their smooth veneer. Don't use race pads (Pagid P50 "Greens") and keep the rotors cool.
Leave the SC and TC on. Unless you're a hack, they'll never intervene. If you are a hack, you'll thank them for keeping you from destroying your car.
4. Leave the wing where it is -- it's already providing noticeable downforce and the rear of the car will stick like it's on rails. It's a great thing -- just take it off when you're on the street so you can see the flock of pigs trying to pace you for a speeding ticket.
5. In my experience of owning several GT3's and servicing a couple of dozen more, the oil and filters should come off before 2K miles. In each of my cars, the oil was "ready" to come out at 1500 miles (as was the transaxle/gearbox.) Once done after the initial miles to carry away all the production line junk and initial break-in, the oil remains clear of any symptomatic content.
6. Choose your own way as far as break-in driving -- I advocate the basics:
1. warm up before driving. Some cars will smoke on startup. Some won't. It's not a problem. It's not cool, but it's not a problem. The clutch will make a racket with the pedal released in neutral, but will be quiet with your foot on the pedal.
2. no lugging, no spinning, no high speeds, no high rpm, no hard acceleration, no aggressive downshifts. I suggest keeping above 2K rpm when accelerating (okay to coast at 1500 rpm or whatever) and do not exceed a vertical (twelve o'clock high) position on the tack) for say 500 miles.
3. smooth on the throttle, never more than 20-40% max (I assure that's still a helluva quick pace on street or track)
4. vary everything -- no cruise control, no steady throttle position, no sitting in same gear -- be continuously moving from 3rd to 6th during any given 15 minute period, continuously gaining and losing speed. Of course, be mindful of traffic and avoid appearing to be narcoleptic.
You might care to keep up the break-in driving forever (1500 or 3000 miles) or whatever suits your way. I keep it up until I get to the track the first chance I get. But I want at least 500 miles on it.
If you can cover 1500 miles, then change oil in the engine and box, I think you've done your duty to give the mechanicals a good upbringing and now they're ready to earn their keep.
The other part of the break-in is the brakes -- bed the pads as per normal (I use the stoptech formula, I've posted on this in the past.) Once you have pad material on the rotors (steel or ceramics) be sure (very sure) to clear the cross bore holes between sessions. Don't apex brake -- always brake in a straight line and trail. If you can't do a full cool down lap or there's high ambient temps, do 5 minutes of 25 mph cruising around the side roads of the track (not in the paddock where you'll run over someone's dog or kid or jackstand and damage your RS.)
If you have the lightweight battery, keep it on the Porsche tender and take note of how energetically it cranks on a cold start from day to day.
If you're driving track or bumpy roads, keep an eye on the undercarriage in case you lose a brake duct.
Make sure the centerlock wheels are properly lubricated and torque-re-torqued off the ground.
Keep a visual on power steering lines and coolant fittings on the engine.
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04-11-2011, 04:02 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
be sure (very sure) to clear the cross bore holes between sessions.
04-11-2011, 04:13 PM
#9
I don't know that clearing the rotors is a big deal, but I do know the rotors don't like to get too hot or they fall off a cliff -- rotor surface wear accelerates. And the stock pads are shedding a lot of dust very quickly. There's also been some examples of the pads disintegrating, which could be associated with high temps.
04-11-2011, 05:16 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
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There are not stupid questions.
But there are a lot of inquisitive idiots!
Leave the TC+SC on. If it starts getting in your way see if its because you are doing something wrong or you are just that damn fast. If it's the latter turn off TC+SC.
The wing can be adjusted a little. Don't bother with that at first. The car is plenty fast as is.
In addition to the safety equipment consider toe arms/links. Will not compromise ride on the road but will provide some reinforcement in keeping rear toe correct under load.
Just started driving my RS.2, as well. The car is unreal. Can't wait to put it on the track.
But there are a lot of inquisitive idiots!
Leave the TC+SC on. If it starts getting in your way see if its because you are doing something wrong or you are just that damn fast. If it's the latter turn off TC+SC.
The wing can be adjusted a little. Don't bother with that at first. The car is plenty fast as is.
In addition to the safety equipment consider toe arms/links. Will not compromise ride on the road but will provide some reinforcement in keeping rear toe correct under load.
Just started driving my RS.2, as well. The car is unreal. Can't wait to put it on the track.
04-11-2011, 11:36 PM
#13
As you may recall, I just received my 2011 GT3RS. I have asked many questions of the group or looked up prior threads for answers on items like tire pressures, etc. Here are some items I am still curious about:
1) Cleaning the paint - Even on new cars, I always clay bar, then use an extreamly mild polish, then wax. All new cars I have still feel dirty until I clay bar, but this car is so clean and smooth, I am scared to even touch it. What did you guys do?
2) Alcantara - never had in before, I assume I leave it alone and clean with DI water if necessary at all.
3) As you may recall, my first trip to the track I am going almost bone stock, except for safety equipment (GMG Rollbar, Scroths, etc), and camber adjustment with corner weighting - I am not a racer, but I instruct for both the BMWCCA and PCA, do you run first weekend with everything on, SC only off, or SC and TC off. I realize this is an experience, confidence, et., etc., type question, hence the title of the post. I have never tracked a 911, last track car was a BMW Z4M Coupe.
4) Angle of attack of the rear wing - I assume for starters I should just leave it alone. Until I have a weekend or two, does it matter?
5) The owners manual does not call for an oil change after the break in. Thats insane, I am changing my oil before hitting the track.
6) I have a schedule to put the 2000 break in miles on the car, if I get almost there (1500+) is it safe to track it?
Thanks in Advance!
1) Cleaning the paint - Even on new cars, I always clay bar, then use an extreamly mild polish, then wax. All new cars I have still feel dirty until I clay bar, but this car is so clean and smooth, I am scared to even touch it. What did you guys do?
2) Alcantara - never had in before, I assume I leave it alone and clean with DI water if necessary at all.
3) As you may recall, my first trip to the track I am going almost bone stock, except for safety equipment (GMG Rollbar, Scroths, etc), and camber adjustment with corner weighting - I am not a racer, but I instruct for both the BMWCCA and PCA, do you run first weekend with everything on, SC only off, or SC and TC off. I realize this is an experience, confidence, et., etc., type question, hence the title of the post. I have never tracked a 911, last track car was a BMW Z4M Coupe.
4) Angle of attack of the rear wing - I assume for starters I should just leave it alone. Until I have a weekend or two, does it matter?
5) The owners manual does not call for an oil change after the break in. Thats insane, I am changing my oil before hitting the track.
6) I have a schedule to put the 2000 break in miles on the car, if I get almost there (1500+) is it safe to track it?
Thanks in Advance!
LOVE IT
wsh
