ron_dargenio

This has been discussed on various threads, but after my first DE, I was a little disappointed with the stock (non-PCCB) brakes on the car. The pedal feel went from hard to mushy in the course of the day, but I am not sure that it really affected performance (the "bite" was not very impressive). I am switching over to Pagid Yellow 29s in front and Black 14s rear, along with a fluid change to Motul.

amaist

Stock pads suck for DE unless you are in Green or one group above that.

The brakes are fine.

TRAKCAR

Go to R29 all around. I use SRF brake fluid and the brakes will be perfect as long as you replace the pads at 50%, or after 20-25 sessions. They will last another 20 or so, but they feel crappy after 6 days.

cfjan

Peter,

Even w/ steel rotor, you'd still change out the pads with 50% left? I thought that's only a PCCB kind of deal.. (since you won't hurt the rotors if you accidently run the pads too thin..) Or that's not the case?!

TRAKCAR

Yes, steel, I take them out after 6 track days, 8 if non Sebring involved. When I measure them they are 50% pad material left, but they just don't grab anymore and the pedal gets softer, even with new SRF flush and I just enjoy driving less, so I put new ones in.

I probably only need to do the fronts that often, next time I will leave the rears in a bit longer as they are not even 50% after that.,

cfjan

Interesting.. I wonder what's the difference.. less pads material is heating up the braking system too much, hence the softer pedal, maybe?

I always thought I will move to steel rotors and put the PCCB on the shelf when I am running stickier tires.. and can use up the pads more to save money... maybe not..

mooty

dude, please ship all your 50% pads over to me.
i help you recycle them.
i run them right into and beyond the backing plate. but that's me. you ppl should NOT do that. i have death wish. so if anyone takes their pads out at 50%, pls donate to mooty. i like to reduce wt on the car.

stock pads doesn't work. no bite
some find stock fluid works. i prefer motul 600. and until they stop making them, i wont be changing that either.

but seriously if anyone routinely take out pads at 50%, send them my way. and i really do use them right up to the backing plate.

with regards to soft pedals. i heard everyone say srf good for whole season. not for me. any fluid, even with brand new full thickness pads, after two days at LS, they feel soft. i bleed brakes every track day, no matter what fluid i use (thats why i dont run srf, i bleed those too), and i need 500ml per bleed, so basically i am flushing the system every track day. pedal fees good.

another strange thing i noticed.
if i am alone, i use motiv to bleed.
if i have a helper, i have use two ppl method with one pumping the pedal.
the two ppl method always provides a firmer pedal. i dont know why, but it is very consistent on every car i have had.
some argue this method will blow out the master cylinder, i haven't. and if it does so be it as long as i have a good pedal feel until then.

TRAKCAR

I used to use them up, but maybe the new RS is more sensitive, or I go a bit faster?

If I go 6 days straight OK without flipping, if I remember to flip after 3-4 days then I use them up on the tracks where the brakes don't get a work out like Sebring. Maybe it is the bleeding thing. I never bleed, only when I get new pads.

This set I only have 2 days Sebring, maybe I should flip front pads and if I can find helper bleed brakes after 2 days at Road ATL and see how they hold up at VIR and do another 2 days of Sebring in May on them if I don't ship car to CA.

ron_dargenio

I agree, I think the changes will help....I run in PCA Black.

ron_dargenio

Interesting that you use 29s in back. I'll keep it in mind sir!

I am setting up the Mooty Charitable Brake Pad Trust as we speak!

amaist

Did the same on the 996 GT3. Didn't go beyond backing plate but sometimes did get to see the backing plate through the pad material.

I'll see how it goes with the 997 mkII.

996FLT6

I usually change out at 2-3 mm material left. Hate the sound of mooty's backing plate when ^he had his bsr- nasty sound. Mike

brownan

Stock rotors also kind of suck. I just switched to Wrightwood Racing fronts. Woo, they are like 7 standard deviations nicer.

mooty

Reter old pads bite less but should have no chg in pedal feel. Soft pedal is due to fluid. Some say u can't boil srf. I don't understand what that means. I had it. I ran LS. 200 miles I bled it I see bubbles. I dont like ANY bubbles. When there's zero bubbles I have great pedal feel no matter how little pads I have left. When pad is low I do need to step on it harder then release.

Ron, like Reter I run 29 all around. I know some prefer 29F 14R but I when I had es14 at rear I absolutely hated the car on 6 and 7.1. And usually I drive around cars set up and not too picky about it. But I just didn't like 14. Too much bite.

10 GT3

Save your money and just do a fluid change first. You should have done it before your first DE. Stock fluid is not up to the task, hence why your pedal went soft. No pad change will make up for poor fluid and you will never be able to fully utilize your brakes until good fluid goes in. Stock brake pads are RS-19s and will be more than up to the task once good fluid goes in. I've had no issues running Motul 600 in mine and put 11 track days on stock pads last year before wearing them out. Also keep in mind that the front rotors are not only larger than the older GT3s, so are the calipers and the brake pads. Hence what may have been the best setup on the older cars is not the best setup on these cars.

If you can generate enough heat you can boil any brake fluid. I boiled Motul 660 in my old Carrera. The 997.2 GT3 does have some advantages here. The new 2-piece rotors are more efficient for brake cooling and there are 2 brakes scoops on every corner. One of the biggest surprises I've had with this car is how capable the stock brakes have been at the track, once good fluid was put in. Stock front rotors will crack with heavy track use. I had to replace mine after a year. They rears on the other hand don't have a single crack in them. I would recommend sticking to the stock rear rotors while switching to something else once you wear out your first set of fronts.