GT3 997.1 RMS Changed Twice
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I found a 997.1 GT3 that I like. One owner car. I'm a little worried. The RMS was changed twice. Once at 5K and again at 8K. Car has 10K on it and the warranty expired. I'm I asking for trouble or Three times a charm?
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Drive the car frequently and it will not leak. Make it a garage queen and it will.
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Factory recommendation is to drive these cars at least 15 miles a day. Take that number with a grain (pound) of salt but you get the drift.
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Drive it and it leaks
This "garage queens leak" fallacy is getting old
First response was correct...it is a character trait of this car, seal is designed to be "on the edge" and thus will leak.
To the OP...doesnt matter if it has been fixed once, twice or never, they will all "weep" to some degree. Just insure it is a small drop and not a puddle. check the car out via PPI...if it passes, buy and enjoy. They are truly special cars.
wsh
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#8
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mine leaked when I got it (3300 miles or so and 3 years old) so I was not surprised... have had it replaced since and all is well... no leaking or drops etc.
However, I drive it a bit.
I have also had the pleasure of replacing the FMS which apparently was on strike after the RMS was replaced.
However, I drive it a bit.
I have also had the pleasure of replacing the FMS which apparently was on strike after the RMS was replaced.
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Mine was dry after about 2K of causual driving last Oct/Nov. It sat for Dec/Jan/Feb. I took it to the track (March) for a 2 day DE and it dripped. I now drive it 2X per week and I have not seen a drop since.
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Not true. mine sits 40+ days no leak
Drive it and it leaks
This "garage queens leak" fallacy is getting old
First response was correct...it is a character trait of this car, seal is designed to be "on the edge" and thus will leak.
To the OP...doesnt matter if it has been fixed once, twice or never, they will all "weep" to some degree. Just insure it is a small drop and not a puddle. check the car out via PPI...if it passes, buy and enjoy. They are truly special cars.
wsh
Drive it and it leaks
This "garage queens leak" fallacy is getting old
First response was correct...it is a character trait of this car, seal is designed to be "on the edge" and thus will leak.
To the OP...doesnt matter if it has been fixed once, twice or never, they will all "weep" to some degree. Just insure it is a small drop and not a puddle. check the car out via PPI...if it passes, buy and enjoy. They are truly special cars.
wsh
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Your car leaks because you don't drive it. Fallacy? Ask your dealer to show you the letter from PAG stating exactly that. The crankcase is under vacuum. Let it sit and it returns to atmospheric pressure after some days. The seal is designed to be sucked in (vacuum) as opposed to resisting positive pressure.
I am fully aware of the "letter" from P. I was also told when they replaced the seal it wouldnt leak again ( it did)....and also told by Porsche that my RS America didnt leak, the 993 C4S would pass emission test, the MFI pump on my 72S wouldn't need rebuilding, blah blah blah. And don't forget the aftermarket exhaust (gasp ! even from the revered mechanic Alex Ross) will make your car leak according to Porsche !!!
Again, I can only base on my experience with my 07 GT3 owned for 4+ years.
-The car has sat on several occasions for 40+ days while out of the country with no use...and no leaks
-When driven on a consistent (and aggressive) basis car will leak a small amount every 5-7 days. After sitting for more than 15 days..no leaks. Want to see my record of the leaks ?
The fact is P designed this seal at the absolute edge of performance and reliability, thus the occasional leak. My own "theory" (which is as good as nothing, or equal to the other theories....) is that using heavier weight oil ( I just switched to 5w50 M1) should reduce the (small) leakage. I have found a MUCH greater correlation between ambient temp and leakage than I have between use/non use and leakage. Sorry if that is not scientific enough for you...but it is fact for my car.
The other interesting note; my 996 Turbo has NEVER leaked a drop but use a quart every ~2k miles. The 3, with the "leak" has never used any oil.
And the GT3 is, without a doubt, the best P I've had in over 31 years of Porsche ownership.
Cliff notes for OP: have PPI..if it checks out, buy car and enjoy. Number of "replaced" RMS seals means nothing IMO.
wsh
wsh
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Here are a few responses to the RMS issue;
A) here is the solution. I have been doing this for 3 months now and have not had one drop of oil and the car will sit for as much as one week at a time.
So here is what you do:
1 - when you stop the car, put the car in neutral and set the handbrake
2 - remove your foot from the brake pedal
3 - let the engine idle for 5 or 10 seconds (and make sure that you keep your foot off the brake pedal)
4 - shut off the motor (while keeping your foot off the brake pedal)
As you will notice from the emphasis above - you want the car to idle with your foot off the brake pedal and then shut it off. This allows the seal to seat properly when the motor shuts off and keep maximum pressure in the case. Good luck - but it does work.
B) using heavier weight oil ( I just switched to 5w50 M1) should reduce the (small) leakage. I have found a MUCH greater correlation between ambient temp and leakage than I have between use/non use and leakage. Sorry if that is not scientific enough for you...but it is fact for my car.
C) RMS leak is a character trait not a defect. Just enjoy the car. The harder you'll run it the less it will leak.
D) They only typically leak if they are not driven. They need heat to seal properly.
E) Changing means nothing. Dealerships were changing them to generate revenue until the factory cut them off. Bet it still leaks. It's minimal, and only if you don't drive it.
It seems to me that changing the RMS is really only required if puddle under car. I am just worried about leaking oil on a track. I would hate to cause a spin for myself and anyone else on the track. I would be pissed if I knew a guy was driving on track with a leak. Or does it not leak while the car is moving?
Everyone has been very helpful and supportive. Thanks
PS: maybe a 997.2 is the answer?
A) here is the solution. I have been doing this for 3 months now and have not had one drop of oil and the car will sit for as much as one week at a time.
So here is what you do:
1 - when you stop the car, put the car in neutral and set the handbrake
2 - remove your foot from the brake pedal
3 - let the engine idle for 5 or 10 seconds (and make sure that you keep your foot off the brake pedal)
4 - shut off the motor (while keeping your foot off the brake pedal)
As you will notice from the emphasis above - you want the car to idle with your foot off the brake pedal and then shut it off. This allows the seal to seat properly when the motor shuts off and keep maximum pressure in the case. Good luck - but it does work.
B) using heavier weight oil ( I just switched to 5w50 M1) should reduce the (small) leakage. I have found a MUCH greater correlation between ambient temp and leakage than I have between use/non use and leakage. Sorry if that is not scientific enough for you...but it is fact for my car.
C) RMS leak is a character trait not a defect. Just enjoy the car. The harder you'll run it the less it will leak.
D) They only typically leak if they are not driven. They need heat to seal properly.
E) Changing means nothing. Dealerships were changing them to generate revenue until the factory cut them off. Bet it still leaks. It's minimal, and only if you don't drive it.
It seems to me that changing the RMS is really only required if puddle under car. I am just worried about leaking oil on a track. I would hate to cause a spin for myself and anyone else on the track. I would be pissed if I knew a guy was driving on track with a leak. Or does it not leak while the car is moving?
Everyone has been very helpful and supportive. Thanks
PS: maybe a 997.2 is the answer?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
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Here are a few responses to the RMS issue;
A) here is the solution. I have been doing this for 3 months now and have not had one drop of oil and the car will sit for as much as one week at a time.
So here is what you do:
1 - when you stop the car, put the car in neutral and set the handbrake
2 - remove your foot from the brake pedal
3 - let the engine idle for 5 or 10 seconds (and make sure that you keep your foot off the brake pedal)
4 - shut off the motor (while keeping your foot off the brake pedal)
As you will notice from the emphasis above - you want the car to idle with your foot off the brake pedal and then shut it off. This allows the seal to seat properly when the motor shuts off and keep maximum pressure in the case. Good luck - but it does work.
B) using heavier weight oil ( I just switched to 5w50 M1) should reduce the (small) leakage. I have found a MUCH greater correlation between ambient temp and leakage than I have between use/non use and leakage. Sorry if that is not scientific enough for you...but it is fact for my car.
C) RMS leak is a character trait not a defect. Just enjoy the car. The harder you'll run it the less it will leak.
D) They only typically leak if they are not driven. They need heat to seal properly.
E) Changing means nothing. Dealerships were changing them to generate revenue until the factory cut them off. Bet it still leaks. It's minimal, and only if you don't drive it.
It seems to me that changing the RMS is really only required if puddle under car. I am just worried about leaking oil on a track. I would hate to cause a spin for myself and anyone else on the track. I would be pissed if I knew a guy was driving on track with a leak. Or does it not leak while the car is moving?
Everyone has been very helpful and supportive. Thanks
PS: maybe a 997.2 is the answer?![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
A) here is the solution. I have been doing this for 3 months now and have not had one drop of oil and the car will sit for as much as one week at a time.
So here is what you do:
1 - when you stop the car, put the car in neutral and set the handbrake
2 - remove your foot from the brake pedal
3 - let the engine idle for 5 or 10 seconds (and make sure that you keep your foot off the brake pedal)
4 - shut off the motor (while keeping your foot off the brake pedal)
As you will notice from the emphasis above - you want the car to idle with your foot off the brake pedal and then shut it off. This allows the seal to seat properly when the motor shuts off and keep maximum pressure in the case. Good luck - but it does work.
B) using heavier weight oil ( I just switched to 5w50 M1) should reduce the (small) leakage. I have found a MUCH greater correlation between ambient temp and leakage than I have between use/non use and leakage. Sorry if that is not scientific enough for you...but it is fact for my car.
C) RMS leak is a character trait not a defect. Just enjoy the car. The harder you'll run it the less it will leak.
D) They only typically leak if they are not driven. They need heat to seal properly.
E) Changing means nothing. Dealerships were changing them to generate revenue until the factory cut them off. Bet it still leaks. It's minimal, and only if you don't drive it.
It seems to me that changing the RMS is really only required if puddle under car. I am just worried about leaking oil on a track. I would hate to cause a spin for myself and anyone else on the track. I would be pissed if I knew a guy was driving on track with a leak. Or does it not leak while the car is moving?
Everyone has been very helpful and supportive. Thanks
PS: maybe a 997.2 is the answer?
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
what does the brake pedal have to do with the RMS?