Fritz Flynn

I probably have about the 1/3 pad left and I'm using the 29s as well and they work fine as long as you tap the pedal up a bit. These pads are crazy thick so even at 1/2 a pad knock back can be a real problem causing a soft low pedal. The pads themselves work fine.

Typically I'll take my pads down to just a little more than the thickness of the backing plate before tossing them.

TRAKCAR

Trust me, I'm tapping, I'm tapping......
It'l stop, just costs laptime.

Fritz Flynn

It's always either time or money

Izzone

Reter is made of money

I just run endless pads......to 4mm then trash.......join the crowd

stujelly

I am doing the conversion from PCCB to steel. Going to get steel rotoer and run the r29s front and back from what I see here.

Already running SRF and pedal feels great.

Was planning to buy porsche steel rotors, is that what most of you do? Probably running 8 to 10 track days this year. Already got 3 events in this year and its barely april.

yeeeehaaaaaaa

911rox

Hey 10Gt3, what front rotors did you go to that allowed you to retain the use of stock brake pads? are they slotted or drilled? Brand, size and supplier if you don't mind... I'm wanting to do same but most front slots require a pad shape/size change to accomodate hats...

Carrera GT

I've not flushed or bled out the factory fluid at all -- a year, 1800 miles a dozen track days running Hoosiers and circulating in open passing at a pretty quick clip. I've been running PCCBs but I don't think it's the ceramic or the iron, it's the pad compound.

I'm curious to hear back from various people trying out Endless and some other after-market pads. I think Pagid has lost the plot for this pad and these rotors. No question, Pagid is the benchmark, but in this 997.2, the stock compound and the race "green" are not working.

I'd suggest two easy ways to improve the performance of the equipment:
1. brake in a straight line and trail, don't "crush the pedal into the apex"
2. clean out the cross bores in the rotors between sessions.

Just remember to wear a mask and eye protection. And let the rotors cool to ambient before blasting with compressed air. An alternative is a small Allen Key. Either way, roll the car forward a half wheel rotation to expose the rotor from inside the caliper.

lawjdc

I have heard that the 996 GT3's use the black Pagid pads in the rear, but its not necessary in a 997 GT3 because there is more brake bias towards the rear than in the 996 GT3. The 29's are what you need, and SRF works great. The stock pads are really not up to the task, unless you don't drive it very hard on the track.

mdrums

I've noticed the same exact thing. I don't know why either as I'm no engineer. Anyone????

10 GT3

I ended up putting another pair of stock rotors on due to time constraints. I have been negotiating for a pair of AP slotted rotors, but they were not off the other car when I needed them. I am going to switch to AP fronts before or when these wear out. The AP replacements are the same as the 380mm replacements for the 07-08 PCCB GT3. The only catch is the holes are slightly larger. When you put the nubs on the rotor, you need to place it on a wheel off the car to tighten the nub bolts to make sure they are aligned properly. No issues with pads with this setup.

For a bleeding, you should never pump the pedal in these cars. They are designed to only be bled at high pressure due to the reverse flow in the master cylinder from the ABS system. You can damage the seals using the pedal method. Just use a power bleeder. Then when driving the car the first time following, make sure you get the ABS to engage a couple of times. This will flush the master cylinder and release any air inside of it.

gmgracing

Gentlemen

I highly recommend considering the Endless fluid they are factory fill on the cup cars, RS hyrbid and factory approved by Porsche Motorsport.

Endless is also the only other company that makes a PCCB compatible pad that is track oriented.

In terms of replacement rotors, I would also recommend going with the Stoptech DRK if you are not planning to replace the calipers themselves


We have personal experiance with the Endless pads and brake fluids as well as with the Stoptech rotors..

Bottom line they work..

The brake fluid has a higher boiling point than SRF and is more consistent.

The pads well there really is no comparison to the Endless pads...

If you need more info please feel free to drop me a line.

We have pads, fluids and rotors in stock for all 996 gt3, gt3, 997 gt3, rs and gt2 cars with either iron or pccb rotors.



Here is a little video of how well they work

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGhZVGDGh6c

cfjan

Hi Fabryce,

I see that StopTech also makes a DRK for the 6GT3 PCCB replacement. However due to the hat design, one needs to modify the pads to clear the hat. How difficult is it to modify the pads??

gmgracing

Modifying the pad is easy and we can supply pre cut pads if needed.

You are removing approx 5mm of material from the inner annulus of the pad..

Feel free to drop me an email for a price quote.

Happy to help out I have this set up on my 996 GT2 and LOVE IT!!!!

Replacement of rotors is very cost effective as well ....

Carrera GT

I use the brake pedal method and a ten year old's leg (not severed, still attached to the ten year old) and the powerbleeder with equivalent results.

I've been thinking of using the quick bleeder nipples -- has anyone tried those things (never too confident about putting a valve right where it would be just unpleasant if the gadget failed.)

I wonder if the pressure on the master from the pedal and the action of evacuating the master cylinder with the piston (instead of just blowing fluid through with the powerbleeder) is leaving residual material/moisture or even air dispersed or dissolved in the system.

There's also the action of the ABS pump to consider. I have a habit of starting the engine and bringing the system pressure up (using the pedal to force all pistons against all rotors) but obviously the powerbleeder is only applying say 20 psi because it's compressing the reservoir. This is where I think the speed-bleeder nipple things could be an advantage.

I like the powerbleeder for flushing the system (no quicker way to get two whole cans of fluid through the system) but I do wonder if it's as good as the pedal.

One last step to keep in mind is to have a vacuum fluid pump to remove the contents of the reservoir down to the filter trap rather than pump this old fluid through the system.

And one more ... never push the brake pedal all the way to the floor ... this forces the piston to make an "excursion" beyond its normal working area of the bore surface. This can bring problems of contamination or abrasion. I put a small piece of wood (just an inch thick or so, nothing scientific) under the pedal so that an overzealous assistant doesn't crush the pedal into the carpet on every pump.

All this talk of brake bleeding has me itching to push some fluid! ... but today is oil filter day ... my least favorite job just because you have to dispose of the all that dino juice and the rose garden never seems to flower quite so brightly afterwards.

TrackDays247.com

You **do not / ever** want to use Pagid Blacks out back and Yellows up front. Whoever gave that advice...

997 GT3 must use same F&R, otherwise, well, it may not end up well at worst and will feel squirrely at best.