How much better is the .2GT3/RS vs the .1GT3/RS??
#16
I was contemplating the same thing. Test drove a 997.1 RS last year and fell in love with the car but ultimately wouldn't get much use in Chicago winters and traffic. Ended up adding a 997S PDK with my 3.8 X51 Cayman.
That said, has anyone compared a Sharkwerks 3.9 RS to a 997.2 RS? Sharkwerks obviously has more displacement, power, and lighter internals (I know lighter than .1 RS, not sure than .2 RS)
997.2 RS has better gearing, lighter LWFW, more aero, PDEM, wider front track.
Some of the 997.2 RS advantages could be done to the 997.1RS but you still have to put money into it and its an older car.
Maybe Sharky or someone who has driven both can chime in.
-Kevin
That said, has anyone compared a Sharkwerks 3.9 RS to a 997.2 RS? Sharkwerks obviously has more displacement, power, and lighter internals (I know lighter than .1 RS, not sure than .2 RS)
997.2 RS has better gearing, lighter LWFW, more aero, PDEM, wider front track.
Some of the 997.2 RS advantages could be done to the 997.1RS but you still have to put money into it and its an older car.
Maybe Sharky or someone who has driven both can chime in.
-Kevin
#17
#18
https://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-...-radiator.html
Don't mean to take away from the original intent of this thread. I apologize if so.
-Kevin
#19
GT3 245/35/18 315/30/18
RS 255/35/18 335/30/18
I think GT3 was 2.25 front 1.8 rear. RS 2.1 rear 2.5 front
#20
Driving skills will dictate the difference in lap times among the cars mentioned by the OP.
On equivalent tires (same size and compound) the 07 997 GT3 and the 11 GT3 RS are separated by just one second on a 60 secs lap, with all the models in between taking fractions of a second. The 04 GT3 RS and GT3 (on proper tires) were right up there with the 997 GT3.
The later the better. Are you experienced enough to extract 10/10th out of any of the cars mentioned? is your purpose for a daily driver? For a DD I would go with the 07 GT3 for $75k, for a track car I would go with the 11 RS at $120k, but it still needs a real LSD. Although, the idea of a 07 RS with the Sharky 3.9 Kit, exhaust, coolant fittings fixed, new RMS fixed, while the tranny goes for a real LSD and short R&P is very tempting, same price as 11 RS but lighter and more fun.
On equivalent tires (same size and compound) the 07 997 GT3 and the 11 GT3 RS are separated by just one second on a 60 secs lap, with all the models in between taking fractions of a second. The 04 GT3 RS and GT3 (on proper tires) were right up there with the 997 GT3.
The later the better. Are you experienced enough to extract 10/10th out of any of the cars mentioned? is your purpose for a daily driver? For a DD I would go with the 07 GT3 for $75k, for a track car I would go with the 11 RS at $120k, but it still needs a real LSD. Although, the idea of a 07 RS with the Sharky 3.9 Kit, exhaust, coolant fittings fixed, new RMS fixed, while the tranny goes for a real LSD and short R&P is very tempting, same price as 11 RS but lighter and more fun.
#21
i currently own both an '08 n/b and a '10 RS. Both cars are great, so I would let your budget be your guide. The .2 cars are slightly more refined, so as said above, newer is better. If .2 fits your budget, go for it.
The .2 RS is more extreme for daily driver use with its tighter gearing, less sound deadening, etc. The radio, iPod hookup, bluetooth phone connection are totally useless options in the RS, but these should not even be on the option list for this car anyway.
For me, I expect the '10 RS will be a long term keeper, even as other cars come and go.
The .2 RS is more extreme for daily driver use with its tighter gearing, less sound deadening, etc. The radio, iPod hookup, bluetooth phone connection are totally useless options in the RS, but these should not even be on the option list for this car anyway.
For me, I expect the '10 RS will be a long term keeper, even as other cars come and go.
#22
I had a 996 GT3, then a 997.1 GT3 and now a 997.2 GT3. The cars have definitely improved as the models progress, with, to my mind, the most noticeable areas of improvement ride quality and power. The difference between the 997.1 and 996 is much bigger than from .1 to .2. Obviously I don't have quite the linear comparison between .1 and .2 as I moved from 3 to RS, but as noted elsewhere, the .1 RS was broadly similar except for body shell to the GT3.
I'd have to say that it is very difficult to find a negative thing to say about the .1 GT3 - the car is simply spectacular - perfectly balanced power to weight, and has a very supple ride yet still grips incredibly on the track. As rmag posted - the .2 RS is considerably faster around the track than the .1 GT3 - although in my case this may be largely due to tires as my .2 RS wears Pilot Sport Cups and i have not previously had such racy tires (the GT3 had Pilot Sports and then Pirelli Corsas). My RS is 3 seconds a lap faster around Thunderhill than the prior car (high 2.02s versus 2.06).
The big differences of .2 over .1 (again comparing RS to GT3) are a noticeably increase in power, which is accentuated by the shorter gearing - the car feels seat of pants faster; sharper turn-in and bigger rear end grip - which I think are RS specific with wider front track and much larger rear wing); zero visibility out the back (this applies to both .2 cars as the wing angle is steeper and blocks the rear vision almost entirely); the .2 RS has a slightly rasper more metallic sounding exhaust than the .1 GT3 - racier but a little less throaty; and depending on your usage profile, the nose lifting option on the new cars is transformational - it dramatically increases the car's urban versatility and let's you enter into almost anything you would drive any car with low profile tires.
i think it is largely a matter of personal style which one you choose. The .1 GT3 is a spectacular car by any measure. It is only is groups like this that you are going to feel any temptation to compare - compared to anything else on the road the car is a perfect package of performance, edge, usability and reliability: a true street car you can whip at the track. I don't think there is a case to buy a .1 RS over the .1 GT3 - there simply isn't enough difference between the cars to justify the price difference. To get a .2 GT3 or .2 RS then becomes a decision of what you are willing to spend - they're all good - each offering a little something extra over the prior car to justify a little bigger investment. I would buy as close to a stripped car as you can find, irrespective of your choice, and would definitely stay away from PCCBs. In my opinion, the .2 GT3 is a great looking car - much more aggressive looking than the .1 and the center lock wheels look superb on the car. The .2 RS is pure boy racer - it really depends whether you are willing to attract a lot more attention on the road for the added performance.
You'll enjoy whatever decision you make!
I'd have to say that it is very difficult to find a negative thing to say about the .1 GT3 - the car is simply spectacular - perfectly balanced power to weight, and has a very supple ride yet still grips incredibly on the track. As rmag posted - the .2 RS is considerably faster around the track than the .1 GT3 - although in my case this may be largely due to tires as my .2 RS wears Pilot Sport Cups and i have not previously had such racy tires (the GT3 had Pilot Sports and then Pirelli Corsas). My RS is 3 seconds a lap faster around Thunderhill than the prior car (high 2.02s versus 2.06).
The big differences of .2 over .1 (again comparing RS to GT3) are a noticeably increase in power, which is accentuated by the shorter gearing - the car feels seat of pants faster; sharper turn-in and bigger rear end grip - which I think are RS specific with wider front track and much larger rear wing); zero visibility out the back (this applies to both .2 cars as the wing angle is steeper and blocks the rear vision almost entirely); the .2 RS has a slightly rasper more metallic sounding exhaust than the .1 GT3 - racier but a little less throaty; and depending on your usage profile, the nose lifting option on the new cars is transformational - it dramatically increases the car's urban versatility and let's you enter into almost anything you would drive any car with low profile tires.
i think it is largely a matter of personal style which one you choose. The .1 GT3 is a spectacular car by any measure. It is only is groups like this that you are going to feel any temptation to compare - compared to anything else on the road the car is a perfect package of performance, edge, usability and reliability: a true street car you can whip at the track. I don't think there is a case to buy a .1 RS over the .1 GT3 - there simply isn't enough difference between the cars to justify the price difference. To get a .2 GT3 or .2 RS then becomes a decision of what you are willing to spend - they're all good - each offering a little something extra over the prior car to justify a little bigger investment. I would buy as close to a stripped car as you can find, irrespective of your choice, and would definitely stay away from PCCBs. In my opinion, the .2 GT3 is a great looking car - much more aggressive looking than the .1 and the center lock wheels look superb on the car. The .2 RS is pure boy racer - it really depends whether you are willing to attract a lot more attention on the road for the added performance.
You'll enjoy whatever decision you make!
#23
Still plays with cars.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Montreal
I have owned and extensively tracked a 996 GT3 a 997 GT3S (2007) and now a 2010 GT3RS.
On track, the 996 GT3 is the equal of the 997 RS (2007). The RS is more powerful, heavier and a nicer drive on the street due to PASM and better noise insulation. Lap times are the same. The MK 1 RS needs a GT2 rear sway bar to be retrofitted to avoid horrible under steer. Makes a nice DD compared to the 996 GT3.
The MK2 RS is finally a step up from the earlier models. It is light like the 996 GT3 and the wider front wheels and improved suspension make the car turn in like a race car. It is a second or two quicker than the MK1 RS. On the other hand it is less of a DD due to high noise levels in the car.
Best,
On track, the 996 GT3 is the equal of the 997 RS (2007). The RS is more powerful, heavier and a nicer drive on the street due to PASM and better noise insulation. Lap times are the same. The MK 1 RS needs a GT2 rear sway bar to be retrofitted to avoid horrible under steer. Makes a nice DD compared to the 996 GT3.
The MK2 RS is finally a step up from the earlier models. It is light like the 996 GT3 and the wider front wheels and improved suspension make the car turn in like a race car. It is a second or two quicker than the MK1 RS. On the other hand it is less of a DD due to high noise levels in the car.
Best,
#24
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17,108
Likes: 259
From: Somewhere in a galaxy far, far away....
The MK2 RS is finally a step up from the earlier models. It is light like the 996 GT3 and the wider front wheels and improved suspension make the car turn in like a race car. It is a second or two quicker than the MK1 RS. On the other hand it is less of a DD due to high noise levels in the car.
Best,
Best,
was i wrong to think that the 997.2RS is actually a tad bit heavier then the 997.1RS in regards to your 996 camparo?
#26
Good stuff Bob.
I can't imagine the 26kg weight diff making much difference in 3k plus pound car and I'm sure the majority of the savings is in the battery.
What's the weight of a 996 GT3 VS 997 GT3 RS?
I recently picked up a GT3 RS 997.1 and it has ZERO push and I think the stock rear bar is set one off stiff or in the middle. Driving on worn out 245 40 18 F and 305 30 18 R 710s. It does have a full bolt in cage which if anything will add push.
What alignment did you have on the 997.1 RS? Sorry to keep high jacking this thread but there appears to be some veteran members posting up some good info and I'm about to align my car
Thanks!
I can't imagine the 26kg weight diff making much difference in 3k plus pound car and I'm sure the majority of the savings is in the battery.
What's the weight of a 996 GT3 VS 997 GT3 RS?
I recently picked up a GT3 RS 997.1 and it has ZERO push and I think the stock rear bar is set one off stiff or in the middle. Driving on worn out 245 40 18 F and 305 30 18 R 710s. It does have a full bolt in cage which if anything will add push.
What alignment did you have on the 997.1 RS? Sorry to keep high jacking this thread but there appears to be some veteran members posting up some good info and I'm about to align my car
Thanks!
I have owned and extensively tracked a 996 GT3 a 997 GT3S (2007) and now a 2010 GT3RS.
On track, the 996 GT3 is the equal of the 997 RS (2007). The RS is more powerful, heavier and a nicer drive on the street due to PASM and better noise insulation. Lap times are the same. The MK 1 RS needs a GT2 rear sway bar to be retrofitted to avoid horrible under steer. Makes a nice DD compared to the 996 GT3.
The MK2 RS is finally a step up from the earlier models. It is light like the 996 GT3 and the wider front wheels and improved suspension make the car turn in like a race car. It is a second or two quicker than the MK1 RS. On the other hand it is less of a DD due to high noise levels in the car.
Best,
On track, the 996 GT3 is the equal of the 997 RS (2007). The RS is more powerful, heavier and a nicer drive on the street due to PASM and better noise insulation. Lap times are the same. The MK 1 RS needs a GT2 rear sway bar to be retrofitted to avoid horrible under steer. Makes a nice DD compared to the 996 GT3.
The MK2 RS is finally a step up from the earlier models. It is light like the 996 GT3 and the wider front wheels and improved suspension make the car turn in like a race car. It is a second or two quicker than the MK1 RS. On the other hand it is less of a DD due to high noise levels in the car.
Best,
#27
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 17,108
Likes: 259
From: Somewhere in a galaxy far, far away....
I recently picked up a GT3 RS 997.1 and it has ZERO push and I think the stock rear bar is set one off stiff or in the middle. Driving on worn out 245 40 18 F and 305 30 18 R 710s. It does have a full bolt in cage which if anything will add push.
What alignment did you have on the 997.1 RS? Sorry to keep high jacking this thread but there appears to be some veteran members posting up some good info and I'm about to align my car
Thanks!
#28
On paper it's exactly 26 KG lighter and it's probably a little sound deadening, the fancy rope door pulls and the LW battery. However there are some other things adding weight.
#30
Sounds like I could be tightening the front bar and taking out a little camber