Gt3 suspension question
#1
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Hey all new to this forum, i have one simple question which has been done to death but i cant seem to find the answer.
When rotating the front struts on 2007 GT3 to get more negative camber, it changes the caster angle, i have read mention of getting this back to spec by using the camber shims, i am assuming removing some shim, to bring the upright back in a little. Is this correct or do i need to add shims.
An answer to this would save alot of time during the job.
Thanks guys and great forum btw.
Matt
When rotating the front struts on 2007 GT3 to get more negative camber, it changes the caster angle, i have read mention of getting this back to spec by using the camber shims, i am assuming removing some shim, to bring the upright back in a little. Is this correct or do i need to add shims.
An answer to this would save alot of time during the job.
Thanks guys and great forum btw.
Matt
#2
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Hey all new to this forum, i have one simple question which has been done to death but i cant seem to find the answer.
When rotating the front struts on 2007 GT3 to get more negative camber, it changes the caster angle, i have read mention of getting this back to spec by using the camber shims, i am assuming removing some shim, to bring the upright back in a little. Is this correct or do i need to add shims.
An answer to this would save alot of time during the job.
Thanks guys and great forum btw.
Matt
When rotating the front struts on 2007 GT3 to get more negative camber, it changes the caster angle, i have read mention of getting this back to spec by using the camber shims, i am assuming removing some shim, to bring the upright back in a little. Is this correct or do i need to add shims.
An answer to this would save alot of time during the job.
Thanks guys and great forum btw.
Matt
#3
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Matt welcome to RL.
When you rotate the struts your minimum camber increases, and caster decreases.
Adding shims in the lower arm, helps you regain some caster back and of course increases camber.
Depending on what camber value you aim for usually rotating and adding shims is the way to go, as this combination keeps all values within factory specs and also helps with rubbing issues.
When you rotate the struts your minimum camber increases, and caster decreases.
Adding shims in the lower arm, helps you regain some caster back and of course increases camber.
Depending on what camber value you aim for usually rotating and adding shims is the way to go, as this combination keeps all values within factory specs and also helps with rubbing issues.
#6
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Welcome Matt.
Guys, I have a related question also; Why rotate the shocks in the first place?
Without it, just with chims you can get -2.5 and with R compound I found that is all that is needed.
Guys, I have a related question also; Why rotate the shocks in the first place?
Without it, just with chims you can get -2.5 and with R compound I found that is all that is needed.
#7
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Thanks for the input from everyone, regarding not rotating i had heard that just adding shims can lead to a rubbing issue.
I'll start on shims and see where i end up.
Thanks again.
I'll start on shims and see where i end up.
Thanks again.
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#8
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Peter you have a 10RS.. and you run 18" I don't think rubbing is an issue for you even if you use only shims to achieve the desired 2.50 camber. But on 6GT3's and 7.1GT3's and with oem tire sizes, if you only shim the arms, then the pushed out (and front) wheels usually rub.. hence rotation with shims is preferred.
#9
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Wider or narrower track which can have some pretty interesting affects. I've worked with engineers that this is all they did, all day long in testing...I preferred the more barbarian approach of moving the front bar and buying better drivers.
#10
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Peter you have a 10RS.. and you run 18" I don't think rubbing is an issue for you even if you use only shims to achieve the desired 2.50 camber. But on 6GT3's and 7.1GT3's and with oem tire sizes, if you only shim the arms, then the pushed out (and front) wheels usually rub.. hence rotation with shims is preferred.
- this is not true for a 996gt3 - rotation would be required
#11
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In two different 997.1 gt3’s that I helped setting up we tried 2.50/60 camber using only shims and oem 19” wheels and tyres, and both had rubbing issues (one much more than the other) at full lock. (btw height was -5mm from oem)
Furthermore the caster went over 9.
My guess, and since I don’t have a better technical explanation, is that some cars may vary in the fender liner tolerances from the factory.
#12
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Very true. On my 997.1 the max camber achievable on the front varied by as much as 0.5 degs--2.3 on the driver's side and 1.8 on the passenger's. Didn't rotate strut tops, only added LCA shims. Just goes to show the huge range of tolerances coming from the factory...