deputydog95

Would you mind commenting on your preferred pressures and alignment specs with these tires?

AudiOn19s

Rad was the master of cramming huge wheels / tires onto his old GT3's.

I believe the trick to the front is you need to switch to 2.25" diameter springs, roll the fenders to the absolute max and be running lots of camber.

obsessedone

R6s was referring to Hoosier R6s. Alignment depends on suspension and driving style. I am running Motons with 750F/900 rear springs. I find I get good handling and reasonable tire wear with track only camber of -3.5F / -1.9R. If you are less aggressive in corners may reduce front somewhat. If you drive street and track this is way too much camber. Even at just -1.9 in rear I still wear the inside edges much faster than outside, so I have rear tires flipped inside out on the wheels after 3 DE days (my race shop originally set me up at -2.5R but I was destroying inside edges in 2 days or so and had to back off the rear camber). I am just doing DE, but 40+ days per season so I am willing to run the tires to the cords without regard to number of heat cycles to reduce costs - still I tend to get only 6-7 days out of rear tires. Many racers limit Hoosiers to 14 or heat cycles or less (3 days or so in typical DE setting).

997gt3north

A 997gt3 with a 245/255 at the very edge of the fender has not had the front struts turned - if they were rotated, the wheel edge with track camber ranges would be no where near touching.

The formula to make it work would be:
1) increase front spring rate to 700-800#s
2) rotate front strut
3) on a 9.5" wide rim you need offset approx 40
4) wood baseball bat to work fender slightly
5) put tire on rim on the car and place on alignment rack
6) have lower control arm shims handy
7) do alignment using camber eccentric at top and shims at bottom, where required, to get desired camber BUT also to fit tire
8) most, most likely need 2.25" springs to gain that extra 1mm/2mm on the inboard side

A wide body front fender would make life easier - but it is not necessary. There are Cayman rear rims that are 19x9.5 that are close to spec that you can use for test fitting. 18" rims and shorter tires are basically a must.

Hardback

Sin, Have you considered Nt-01s? I drive to and from HMS and around Miami for a couple months on mine this summer. Once the rain started coming each day i went back to streets but they were really durable and as long as i didnt push them in the rain they were fine on the street. Ernie Bello stocks them at Bello Motorsports in Pompano. I use 235/40/18 up front and 315/30/18 on rear. Nitto makes 245/40/18 as well... Not sure if this will work for you as you stated your looking for 255/35s... However if they will work on your car I wouldnt hesitate to drive on them to Sebring as long as the weather looks good, just slow down if it starts to pour.... Winter time should be no problema...

By the way Track weekend is doing an event with FARA on the 16th. 2 hrs track time from 8-1 in between practices at HMS... $165 entry... Come down and play ... ( no affiliation with either )

NJ-GT

for the sizes I mentioned, some tricks are required.

Heavy fender rolling front and rear, rotated front strut mount, pushed out fenders (I know how to do it, not easy), 7mm of front LCA shims (no more), -3.0 to -3.5 front camber and -2.5 rear camber.

Wheel offsets (997 GTs):

NB: 10x18 ET 37 and 12x18 ET 57
WB: 10x18 ET 37 and 13x18 ET 50

deputydog95

The nitto's don't work with the 997. Our wheel/tire diameters are different from front to rear, vs the 996 which are even. Supposedly it will mess with the ABS. Shame though as I've heard great things about them.

deputydog95

Thanks for the info. I don't do a ton of street driving. Mostly just driving to and from the track. I'm having the hoosiers mounted on Monday. There aren't any really good r compounds left in 18", so I figured I'd just go for the sticky stuff since I have a tire trailer now.

So maybe -3 up front and -2 in the rear? I always flip my rear tires after two or three days. Insides wear way too quickly.

Do you heat cycle yours? I got my tires from Bob Woodman. They don't offer the service and they think that Tire Rack's heat cycling is a joke. I don't have two sets of track wheels and tires so I was considering bombing around the streets of Tampa (as long as it's dry) for 20 minutes after I get them mounted and then let them sit.

obsessedone

I tried Tire Rack heat cycled and couldn't tell any difference in stick or wear when switcing from tires that were treated and tires that weren't. I don't bother and neither do most others I know running R6s. A couple racers I know do...

If mostly track as you describe then I would try -3 to -3.25 F, -1.75 to -2 R. Monitor the wear and watch your street tires also as you will want to flip them inside out before you cord the inside edges.

deputydog95

I learned the rear flip trick a long time ago the hard way when I corded a set of rear street tires in about 5k miles. Well worth the $50-60 to have them flipped. Thanks for all the info.

sin911

I will be getting my rears flipped when I get back to Miami. I have 2.5 days on the RA1s and the right inside is pretty worn.

Hardback: As deputdog said, the NT01's unfortunately don't work with the 997. The rears need to be larger in diameter or ABS freaks out

Drew, can you post a picture of your new tire trailer?

deputydog95

One guy on here said he ran them on the 997, and they worked fine. I'd like to see a few people that we know, do it and do it successfully.

I actually have a thread on here with the trailer photos in it. Should probably be on the first or second page.