I got them from Orbit. When they attempted to get them from KW USA they waiting time was 6+ weeks, so they contacted Manthey who they work with all the time and had them send one of their sets that they had in stock. I can't find the spring rates in the brochure, but do remember that the difference between front and rear was similar to the RS.2. I want to say that it was something like high 200's in front and in the 800's for the rear. I think you're in the ballpark on price.

 

Not really bumpy, and the front to rear ratio felt good, but Sebring is such a weird track for setup. Peter and I even tried at one point to set the suspension to hard from turn 2 until 16, then soft for turn 17 and turn 1. But we messed up more often screwing with the button before a turn that it made it more dangerous. So with the 500/800 the car felt great from turn 2 until turn 16, great transitions from left to right and right to left, (turn 3-5, turn 10-12, 13-16) and very nice in high speed turns such as Bishop, but in turn 17 and turn 1, it was just too hard and skit on top of the bumps (feels nice, but was slow)

 

I'm running 600/800 combo, but my car is a little heavier than the 3, with 3270 on the alignment scales. Trying to set up the adjustments is a nightmare, last Chin event Rodger changed the settings, and the car felt a lot planted, but, with high temperature, traffic I could never duplicate my 2:21.1 lap that I previously ran in the begging of the year on the old set up. I'm stuck on the 2:23.

 

have you ever spun or gone off in the meantime?
i have spun the car once (over 100mph) and have never been able to beat my pb after that.
at least 1 second slower now.

 

Me ?

I got really sideways a few times, on turn 5, thinking that was it, I lost it, but I got it back, would be no problem, as I was about to spin on the track. After that I stopped and felt the car really weird. The alignment changed a lot toe in or the left side and toe out on the right. Perfect situation for disaster, but never affected it was all good after. Oh, car tried to kill me coming out of 17, but that's it. I didnt get traumatized.

 

ok, yeah, i got my two right wheels on the gravel on the far exit of a 100mph turn, and the rear got loose one way, then came round the other way, where i caught it just before doing the 180...scared the **** outta me and felt like it lasted 10 seconds, where my life passed in front of me in full hd glory.
still push the car hard, but am thinking whether i subconsciously allow a smidgen of headroom everywhere since then. i am consistently 1 second off my pb before that event, and running same settings.
has me baffled as to whether a slight reserve is built-in or not...

 

I have the same feeling at Roebling road.....I am super slow through 8,9 now......after many circles

 

the way to cure that is to spin in every turn at least once. Although I must admit that standing water scares the ****e out of me after a really bad spin at Homestead once.

 

I hate turn 10 ... I saw everything backwards at 100+ not fun at all.
I don't know which one is worse, PBIR or Homestead.

 

Seems like Megan suffered a little in your hands

I've never spun so far, thank God... But I've been off the track twice (once in PBIR, once in Homestead)

 

Turn 1 is not that bad but turn 17 is horrible! I just leave PASM in Hard. The car feels too soft. There's enough body roll and weight transition from rear to front under heavy braking with PASM in Hard...

 

After researching, and deciding I don't want to deal with machining my shocks or custom hats, I think that it is important for people to know, that if you just want to increase your front spring rate on the MK1 or MK2, to offset some of the major brake dive, then all you have to do is simply purchase a 60mm ID H&R or Swift race springs. They make them in off-the-shelf lengths of 200mm (7.85") and 250mm (9.8") with rates of 343# and 400#.

If you want to increase your rear spring rate (just barely) on the MK1, then use the MK2 rear springs, which don't require any modifications.

I plan on testing the 343# and 400# front springs, along with MK2 rear springs, and some GMG bars. Typically when you increase front rate or roll stiffness, you want more negative camber as well. Which is what most of the cup cars and race teams are doing.

 

How do you anticipate the increased spring rate effecting PASM on .1 and .2 997's?

 

I reached out to Orbit for some rear spring hats also, and plan on trying a 400# front, ~700# rear combo.

 

Good, I told Roger you might be calling. I'm still wondering why everyone including Moton uses the 300# difference between front and rear while the factory (including the 3.8 RS) and KW uses a much bigger difference.