Breaking Centerlocking Wheels
10-07-2010, 06:33 AM
#16
The breaker bar is for the wheels/nuts. The steering wheel bar is an adjustable rod that depresses the brake on one end and braces against the steering wheel on the other end to prevent the front wheels from rotating. The emergency brake will take care of the rears.
10-07-2010, 07:55 AM
#17
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I just read the precision instrument instruction manual and it specifically states to not use the full size wrench to break the nut. I do push down instead of pulling up, and I usually place the wrench parallel to the ground. I think the key is more leverage. I need a longer breaker bar. I see that some use the 40" breaker bar. Does anyone use anything longer? For those that use the 40" bar, does that work well for you?
10-07-2010, 10:36 AM
#18
Burning Brakes
i use the entire torque wrench as well. just set it up to max 600ft lbs and set it on reverse. the fully assembled torque wrench is longer and more sturdy than the single piece 40" breaker bar from tooltopia meaning its easier to break free the centerlock nut. i place it at a -45 degree angle from vertical and push down versus pulling up the other way.
10-07-2010, 06:45 PM
#19
OK, this brings up a question. I torque my wheels to spec then reverse the torque wrench and back of the recommended 1/6 turn, then re-tighten back to spec. so I'm using the wrench as a breaker bar, no? Wonder if I should back off the 1/6 turn with the breaker bar before I re-tighten? I double check torque before events and they retain torque so what to do?
10-08-2010, 12:07 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
OK, this brings up a question. I torque my wheels to spec then reverse the torque wrench and back of the recommended 1/6 turn, then re-tighten back to spec. so I'm using the wrench as a breaker bar, no? Wonder if I should back off the 1/6 turn with the breaker bar before I re-tighten? I double check torque before events and they retain torque so what to do?
10-08-2010, 06:18 AM
#21
I use the 3' snap on breaker bar and have a 32mm nomimal length of pipe (5') for extra leverage if required. I use the torque wrench to torque them up, the breaker to ease them off 1/6th and the torque wrench to retorque. A little fiddley but quick if you have someone in the car, on the brake... By the way, to date, haven't needed the 5' pipe for extra leverage, the breaker was fine... We'll see how we go with 600ft/lb...
10-10-2010, 10:42 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Save yourself the $$$! I do it with just two socket changes! I torque them all up, change to breaker bar, back them all off, change to torque wrench and torque them all up again! Presto... its done...
10-11-2010, 09:41 PM
#23
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I agree with the above process. As far as tools, I just use a 600 ft lb Torque wrench for on and a 40" breaker bar for off. Takes two people and you may have to run the car to heat the brakes up for more grip. The fronts can be a bear, especially if you run a lot of DE's. Seems like multiple heat cycles seizes them up a bit. That may be why Porsche has the new torque procedure with grease.
10-11-2010, 10:41 PM
#24
10-12-2010, 06:30 AM
#25
10-12-2010, 08:02 AM
#26
So, pull on the wrench, *CLICK*, flip the switch, push on the middle bar to loosen, flip the switch, pull on the wrench, *CLICK* and done.
10-12-2010, 08:56 AM
#27
Burning Brakes
Sorry guys I've just been reading this thread and wanted to ask if it was safe to surmise that the wheels with center lock as the least beneficial mod for the Mk 2?
