I had alot of problem finding 3rd gear from 2nd under hard acceleration and high G load. Firmer WEVO engine mount helped some but the pesty problem persist. It was especially noticeable flying up the straight at Laguna Seca after T11 and also attempting 1/4 drag ... super embarrassing when you can find 3rd gear .

To fix this problem I have to change out our flimsy factory setup with plastic connecting ends and thin metal shift cable which can lead to unwanted flex under hard acceleration which makes it hard for to find the proper gears. I decided to get the thicker 996 Cup cable with ALL metal ends to eliminate any play. I kept the factory shifter assembly to provide some vibration damping from the powertrain.

The first thing I noticed after getting the 996 Cup cable is how heavy they are and the metal cable is super thick. I got my 996 Cup cable and components from TRG. Here is the parts numbers with price and diagram

#10 – 996.424.040.75 $486
#6 – 996.424.145.9A $17.40
#7 – 900.169.015.02 $15.22



OK, I love to take credit for DIY on this project ... but not this time. One thing that prevented me from doing a DIY install is because I hate working with interior parts - all the blind clips and retainers just drive me bonker. I could not get the shift boot off to get started with the project. I call Niello Porsche service manager Jim Webber for help and he told me to come over and pop the boot off in less than a minute. Needless to say I handed him the Cup cable and went home sipping tea and watch ALMS on Speed

You can e-mail Jim at jwebber@niello.com for install questions. It is not an easy DIY at all - it require couple hours of work from a well trained technician to do this right. What you can do to help make this easy for your tech is remove the center shift console. I will list the steps below for center console removal and couple pictures of the 996 Cup cable vs OEM for reference.

OK, first carefully pop the shift boot off with plastic wedge from both sides - take care not to break the clip or damage the surrounding plastic trim. This is what the underside of the shift boot look like.



One retaining clips on each side and two at the front of the boot ... stubborn buggers to pop lose!



Twist the neck of the shift boot 90 degrees clockwise then pull hard on the shift **** to pop it lose - careful not to hit yourself in the face with the ****



Remove the carpet ends behind the radio/Nav console by losing two T30 screws - you have to feel it out, it's kind of hidden (this is why I hate working with interior trims)



Remove the connector on the passenger side for the 12V power outlet



Remove the two bolts holding the radio/Nav console side plate and pop it out. It's held on by 3 clips





Now let's remove the center shifter console. It has two layers of plastic covers on top of the shift lever. You need to remove them all ... kind of like peeling onion.

First black trim is held on by couple retaining clips - carefully unclip it by pulling up on each sides



Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the next plastic trim and you are ready to remove the sport switch cover



Gently pull out the cover. The sport switch section can be easily disconnected from the tray below



Remove the plastic cover below the parking brake handle to expose the retaining screw



... and the ones right behind the parking brake handle under the flip up compartment



Rotate and disconnect the electric connector from retainer for the center console. Humm ... BMW plug. Remove the screw at the very end of the center console





Gently guide the shift console out. I removed both seats to make it easier but you don't need to remove the seat ... what a PITA! Now the hardest part is done. Hand your key to your trusted technician for the next easy step -installation of 996 Cup cable

 

Jim Webber and his crew at Niello Porsche took great care of my RS and install the 996 Cup cables. Let's take a look at the Cup cable vs OEM for comparison

Wish I have a lift like this ...



All metal ends on the 996 Cup cable connecting to the shift lever



... vs the plastic ends on factory shift cable





996 Cup cable thickness vs factory. The loose cables are factory and it's about 30-40% thinner compare with Cup cables.



996 Cup cable transmission ends



... vs factory




Driving impression

The first thing I notice is how crisp the throw is with each gear. It's either in or out and no guessing. The effort to shift is slightly increased and more vibration is transmitted to the shift lever. There are alot more humming noise to the cabin especially you are in neutral or when you release the tension of the shift cable such as operating the clutch.

Most importantly - how does the shift feel on the track and did we solve the 2nd to 3rd gear problem? Well, I had a chance to test this out at Laguna Seca. Very happy to report I had ZERO problem going from 2nd to 3rd under hard acceleration and high G force. I am very happy with this mod and recommend to those of you seeking a more precise shifting experience.

Here is a video of the 996 Cup shift cable test at Laguna Seca

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0x9haMVaWA

 

the cables are on my christmas list!

 

good move!

 

Anyone know if cables are the same on Gen2 vs Gen1 997 RS?

 

Mike, how are the shifts from 2nd to 3rd when you have a cornering load on the car? From watching your vid, it looks like you were only shifting on the straights. I occasionally miss a 2nd to 3rd shift but it only happens when the car is side loaded, but I still have the stock shift cables.

 

From that video, you will note that your down-shift to second caused the rears to chirp (the 997.1 GT3 and RS "engine drag torque control, EDC" will match rpm as that happens, but your blip was too little, too late ... PSDS teaches getting that down-shift to the gear selection for the apex at the braking markers ... and of course braking should be in a straight line, which addresses both stability and consistency.

I have an atrocious habit of "sparing" 2nd gear syncro by leaving the down-shift too late -- at the last of braking and slurring into the turn-in -- so I'm conscious of making that shift clean and early, plus the engine torque gives just a hint of added rear brake bias, which I like, especially in T11 and T2 at Laguna. T11 is a trick because you're already at the top of 3rd, so you have to wind all the way down under brakes with the car on its nose and then find time to shift to 2nd. I watched T2 from the paddock over the weekend. Only one or two of the front-running race drivers were consistent at T2 and everyone else was braking far to late and coming out of T2 onto the main straight at a snail's pace.

Also, my preference about overtaking, if I overtake to the inside line for the apex -- which is the only way I like to pass ... going around the outside is a low probability game -- I then return to the "line" (whatever that really means) in order to get fully in front of the passed car and make it abundantly clear that this is no duel and they've been fully overtaken before I go under brakes ... removing the possibility of a "dive bomb" for the apex on my part and for turns like T6, making sure I'm not exposed to someone trying to make it "three wide" (which has happened to me.)

Anyway, other than nit-picking at your down-shift (sorry) the up-shift is clean, but consider putting both hands on the steering wheel at all times, especially between up-shifts when the tendency can be to leave one hand on the shifter -- you're already doing 80 mph with concrete 20 foot to either side, so steering is the imperative and shifting is just nice to have. : )

 

Mike cables are a good move but you should have done the cup shifter as well at the same time.

 

^John u have pics of the cup shifter? And what is different compared to stock? Thanks. Mike

 

Thanks for posting


The 2-3 shift is easier on the .2 GT3RS...

 

It has less plastic and more metal on the top and bottom. Its throws are longer than the 997stock shifter similar to the 996 stock shifter. It feels unbreakable.

 

Mike,

Awesome write-up as always. I find the 2-3 shift is the only one I ever miss and usually on the straights as you encountered. I thought I was just rushing the shift or being clumsy? You think the cable is the fix? Any consensus on this?

 

Oh yeah!

Thanks for the inspiration. MD11skipper is next

I would assume they are the same

I don't normally shift while turning under high G - make the car too unstable. I do that once in a while at Thunderhill at T11 ... but I have no problme shifting from 2nd to 3rd with factory setup

 

Thanks Pete

Yup, that was the same problem I encounter up the straight at Laguna Seca after T11. Shifting slower with factory cable helps but sometimes that still does not work. You will benefit greatly with these beef up 996 Cup cable - pretty cheap mod not counting labor

 

Thanks for the recommendations. Alot of slow traffic that day and playing with the shifter and clutch plus working with a "new" floor pan make it a challenge to shift cleanly.

I thought about getting the 996 Cup shifter but TRG told me there is really no added benefit comparing with 7 GT3 RS shifter other than more vibration. Will upgrade in future if needed

That's good to hear ... but sounds like savyboy is having some issue from 2nd to 3rd