savyboy

I had a screw loose last week. Actually, two loose. Noticed my rotor was wobbly and decided to check the screws. Checked each wheel after finding the first one.

Excellent observation, never thought about it keeping the wheel from seating properly, but it surely would

Check your rotor screws men!

TRAKCAR

I will.
Never looked at them before..
Just tighten right?

Carrera GT

Definitely important to eyeball and "nut and bolt" the whole assembly (brake lines, bleed screw, wheel carrier, ball joint, control arms, bushings, seals, sway bar mounts and links.) Give everything an appropriate hands-on movement. For the rotors, avoid grease contamination, so avoid touching the swept area of the rotor with a greasy hand or glove, but it's well worth poking a piece of wire through the drill holes, breaking up the dust in there ... use a mask if you care about breathing ... rotating the assembly to listen for any issues, getting a flashlight on the edges of the pads and giving them a bit of a poke around to see if anything is out of place.

As for the screw to locate the rotor, it can have a dab of loctite. They shouldn't be over-tightened and they shouldn't come loose. Maybe someone can check the torque spec.

911SLOW

9.7Nm

John

The Baron

Powerful Shop-Vac with brush attachment specifically dedicated for your rotors keeps the greasy hands & gloves away from the rotors and really solves the dust problem. This procedure was very effective in the past.

The Baron

translated ........... finger tight !

So loctite might be the ticket.

Nizer

Has anyone actually taken the wheel nut apart to grease as suggested? Tech and I had a hard time figuring out how to get the cone ring off to grease as instructed. Looks like it's held on by some type of c-clip that requires a special tool to release.

Funny, I just spent three days watching constant wheel changes on Cup cars. Air gun off, air gun on - bang, done. None of this crap and never a mention of grease.

mooty

never greased it. probably never well.
when wheel falls off, i probably hit something
if still alive. i get a cup.

this is just insane.
let's be real here. how many of us REALLY going to grease this thing?
i chk trq on my wheel nuts 2x before and after each session (savyboy saw my ocd), hood pins about 20x before and after each session making sure my passenger door is closed by reclosing it 3x before and after each session.....

and even i think it's too much fess about this CL thing.

i seriously doubt ppl will continue to grease these things all the time.

Izzone

Looks like the 997.1's have another benefit

If you want more horsepower go see sharky

Nizer

Interesting that Porsche appears to be going over the top AR on the centerlock nuts but is completely ignoring the coolant line issue. Makes no sense whatsoever from a liability standpoint given that centerlocks have a locking retainer system to prevent actual wheel loss while it's only a matter of time before someone gets seriously hurt or killed by the coolant system fault. The logical conclusion is that different handling of respective issues is down to costs. By releasing the technical bulletin on the centerlocks they shift responsibility and cost back to the customer while a fix for the coolant system fault would be very costly and on Porsche.

911rox

The diagrams do show some kind of c-clip Nizer but I haven't had a bolt off to play with since this TSB was released... History has taught me however that c-clips don't like to be removed alot because they stretch and end up not holding as well. Splashed out on dinosaur derived grease but intend to just apply to accessible surfaces which is pretty much all but the two, either side of the rubber seal (1 and 4 on their diagram, I believe) unless the bolts easily seperate. When I pull one off, I will post if I manage to seperate them easily enough...

Nizer

Probably makes sense to at least grease the outer surface of the cone ring as instructed. We noted some very minor scoring of the wheel surface that interfaces with the cone. It's clear that this area did not get grease from the factory. Should also make removal and re-torquing a little easier.

Then again, you probably don't care since you're dumping your '10 RS for a.....

mooty

^ i noticed i do have grease from factory on the conical section. very little, but it's there.

also, i was told long ago (5 lugs) that i should lithium grease them lightly as well. but most ppl (me inc) never done that?

greasing the outside isn't bad. but if indeed the nut has to be "disassembled" to grease it....... seriously not many will do. especially if you were to swap wheels on track, you be too hot too col or too tired to do it.

now, i do make some noises about the "strange" design issues on the 2010 cars, but let's not make mistake that it is one of the best 911 variant made.

Nizer

Agreed. Good news is that at 2k miles there was still plenty of visible grease on some of the buried areas that would require dis-assembly to access, so I can't see how it would ever make sense to attempt this every time the nut was off, so to speak.

cscrogham

Just take them out if you're at the track. The wheel holds the rotor in place and makes the whole thing a lot quicker.