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New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**

Old 09-17-2010, 04:23 PM
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911SLOW
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
Did anyone else notice mention of "assembly aid 9794 (for vehicles with PCCB)" on page one of the .pdf?

I wonder if this is a wheel locator tool ala "the big red *****" ... that might be cheaper than $350???

Aid 9794 is indeed the porsche oem *****. Color not so funky like the red but size wise they are same and that is important.

part number for locator is 99772197940 and price about 550 euros.

Btw on the 996 with PCCB they gave away two little ****** with the car for free.


For you guys that wonder what the hell they were thinking to put C/Ls in a street car like it would do timed pitstops, please note that "Form Follows Function" is dead since the “marketing department” became the No1 decision making team in Weissach.

John
Old 09-17-2010, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 911SLOW
Aid 9794 is indeed the porsche oem *****. Color not so funky like the red but size wise they are same and that is important.

part number for locator is 99772197940 and price about 550 euros.

Btw on the 996 with PCCB they gave away two little ****** with the car for free.


For you guys that wonder what the hell they were thinking to put C/Ls in a street car like it would do timed pitstops, please note that "Form Follows Function" is dead since the “marketing department” became the No1 decision making team in Weissach.

John
Thanks for the info on the ***** ... as I suspected more expensive than the red one ...

funny, I even got a pair of the .1 little ****** free with my .2 ... honestly I think Porsche should have provided one of these with the .2 as well ...

I will be seriously pissed if the GTS shows up with one supplied!!!
Old 09-17-2010, 04:33 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
Thanks for the info on the ***** ... as I suspected more expensive than the red one ...

funny, I even got a pair of the .1 little ****** free with my .2 ... honestly I think Porsche should have provided one of these with the .2 as well ...

I will be seriously pissed if the GTS shows up with one supplied!!!
Not likely. That tool is a hub press (that's why it's expensive, I guess) and it has the wheel mount alignment as a logical accessory function. Maybe we'll all need it if we're going to busting bearings and wheel carriers ...
Old 09-17-2010, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Carrera GT
Not likely. That tool is a hub press (that's why it's expensive, I guess) and it has the wheel mount alignment as a logical accessory function. Maybe we'll all need it if we're going to busting bearings and wheel carriers ...
bugger...
Old 09-17-2010, 05:18 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by KBS911
Ouch, this is kid of scary. I have changed my C/L wheels at least a half a dozen times and attended several track events after doing so. I also apply final torque on the nuts after the car is on the ground, although I do torque the rear wheels while in the air. The fronts are the problem though.

Regardless of F/R I tighten and seat the nuts as far as can be done with the suppplied socket before final torqueing. Wouldn't that serve to prevent undue load on the bearings?
Clarification to all (due to my poor memory): the wheel pins were damaged when the wheels were secured and then torqued without jacking the car up. That process loaded up the spindle and ended up breaking the drive pins.

The way we do it in the cups (which would likely work for the street vehicles) is to snug down the wheels in the air, and then do final torque on the ground. If one tried to torque the wheels in the air, there is the possibility of bending or tweaking suspension arms.

Sorry to all for using my memory.......
Old 09-17-2010, 05:30 PM
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good, I figured it was some type of initial engagement issue. I think that if we continue to do it the normal way,i.e., your way, then we should all be fine.
Old 09-17-2010, 05:38 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by thusly
Clarification to all (due to my poor memory): the wheel pins were damaged when the wheels were secured and then torqued without jacking the car up. That process loaded up the spindle and ended up breaking the drive pins.

The way we do it in the cups (which would likely work for the street vehicles) is to snug down the wheels in the air, and then do final torque on the ground. If one tried to torque the wheels in the air, there is the possibility of bending or tweaking suspension arms.

Sorry to all for using my memory.......
Whew! Thanks for the clarification. I feel better. Now I've got to find some of that Optimoly TA to butter my nuts. I've heard that the Permatex alum/moly product is a good substitute. Are there any other and/or equals out there?
Old 09-17-2010, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by KBS911
Whew! Thanks for the clarification. I feel better. Now I've got to find some of that Optimoly TA to butter my nuts. I've heard that the Permatex alum/moly product is a good substitute. Are there any other and/or equals out there?
I'd want to use the Porsche lube to ensure that everything was kosher ...
Old 09-17-2010, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
I'd want to use the Porsche lube to ensure that everything was kosher ...
Agreed and ordered although at AUS$50 for a tube, they must be breading and harvesting dinosaurs to make this stuff... Since when does a toothpaste size tube of grease cost 50 bucks?.... wtf?
Old 09-17-2010, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 911rox
Agreed and ordered although at AUS$50 for a tube, they must be breading and harvesting dinosaurs to make this stuff... Since when does a toothpaste size tube of grease cost 50 bucks?.... wtf?
at that price you should consider snorting or injecting it! ...
Old 09-17-2010, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
What do people use for as a source for a good breaker bar???
The breaker bar from Porsche is collapsable and has the advantage that the head doesn't pivot. It makes the CL removal very fast and easy.

Pick your dealer - here it is from Suncoast

I also found that putting a bit of lubricant on the rubber o-ring on the dust cap helps with subsequent removal.
NOTE>>>> I also lost my two front dust caps last weekend at Lime Rock so maybe this isn't such a great idea afterall!!!!

Last edited by Blaine S; 09-28-2010 at 04:54 PM.
Old 09-17-2010, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaine S
The breaker bar from Porsche is collapsable and has the advantage that the head doesn't pivot. It makes the CL removal very fast and easy.

Pick your dealer - here it is from Suncoast

I also found that putting a bit of lubricant on the rubber o-ring on the dust cap helps with subsequent removal.
cheers!
Old 09-18-2010, 12:01 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
Did anyone else notice mention of "assembly aid 9794 (for vehicles with PCCB)" on page one of the .pdf?

I wonder if this is a wheel locator tool ala "the big red *****" ... that might be cheaper than $350???
Larry,
i got the *****. i needed it.
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Old 09-18-2010, 12:08 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 911rox
Agreed and ordered although at AUS$50 for a tube, they must be breading and harvesting dinosaurs to make this stuff... Since when does a toothpaste size tube of grease cost 50 bucks?.... wtf?
give me a chill spine when thinking about it. money making has been so easy for Porsche. take note. the file was issued yesterday. i'm wondering how many tubes of grease they sell today.
Old 09-18-2010, 05:35 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
What do people use for as a source for a good breaker bar???
Hey Larry,

Went for the snap on 3/4" breaker head and snap on 3' handle.. Works great but Porsche tool wasn't available at the time.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....ia&dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....ia&dir=catalog

If I were buying now, I would take the Porsche breaker because it can be carried in the car a lot easier... For long trips, if you suffer a tyre failure, tyre shops don't have a 3/4" drive breaker to even get your wheel off the car for a repair. At least with the Porsche breaker, you can get it off, repaired and back on again following the emergency torquing procedure without having to find somewhere to put a 3-4' breaker bar or without waiting a few hours for Porsche assist if you're in remote areas...

Last edited by 911rox; 09-18-2010 at 07:24 AM.

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