New Centerlock Specs/Torque For Track Use. **Read This**
#61
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Aid 9794 is indeed the porsche oem *****. Color not so funky like the red but size wise they are same and that is important.
part number for locator is 99772197940 and price about 550 euros.
Btw on the 996 with PCCB they gave away two little ****** with the car for free.
For you guys that wonder what the hell they were thinking to put C/Ls in a street car like it would do timed pitstops, please note that "Form Follows Function" is dead since the “marketing department” became the No1 decision making team in Weissach.
John
#62
Rennlist Member
Aid 9794 is indeed the porsche oem *****. Color not so funky like the red but size wise they are same and that is important.
part number for locator is 99772197940 and price about 550 euros.
Btw on the 996 with PCCB they gave away two little ****** with the car for free.
For you guys that wonder what the hell they were thinking to put C/Ls in a street car like it would do timed pitstops, please note that "Form Follows Function" is dead since the “marketing department” became the No1 decision making team in Weissach.
John
part number for locator is 99772197940 and price about 550 euros.
Btw on the 996 with PCCB they gave away two little ****** with the car for free.
For you guys that wonder what the hell they were thinking to put C/Ls in a street car like it would do timed pitstops, please note that "Form Follows Function" is dead since the “marketing department” became the No1 decision making team in Weissach.
John
funny, I even got a pair of the .1 little ****** free with my .2 ... honestly I think Porsche should have provided one of these with the .2 as well ...
I will be seriously pissed if the GTS shows up with one supplied!!!
#63
Thanks for the info on the ***** ... as I suspected more expensive than the red one ...
funny, I even got a pair of the .1 little ****** free with my .2 ... honestly I think Porsche should have provided one of these with the .2 as well ...
I will be seriously pissed if the GTS shows up with one supplied!!!
funny, I even got a pair of the .1 little ****** free with my .2 ... honestly I think Porsche should have provided one of these with the .2 as well ...
I will be seriously pissed if the GTS shows up with one supplied!!!
#64
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#65
Rennlist Member
Ouch, this is kid of scary. I have changed my C/L wheels at least a half a dozen times and attended several track events after doing so. I also apply final torque on the nuts after the car is on the ground, although I do torque the rear wheels while in the air. The fronts are the problem though.
Regardless of F/R I tighten and seat the nuts as far as can be done with the suppplied socket before final torqueing. Wouldn't that serve to prevent undue load on the bearings?
Regardless of F/R I tighten and seat the nuts as far as can be done with the suppplied socket before final torqueing. Wouldn't that serve to prevent undue load on the bearings?
The way we do it in the cups (which would likely work for the street vehicles) is to snug down the wheels in the air, and then do final torque on the ground. If one tried to torque the wheels in the air, there is the possibility of bending or tweaking suspension arms.
Sorry to all for using my memory.......
#67
Clarification to all (due to my poor memory): the wheel pins were damaged when the wheels were secured and then torqued without jacking the car up. That process loaded up the spindle and ended up breaking the drive pins.
The way we do it in the cups (which would likely work for the street vehicles) is to snug down the wheels in the air, and then do final torque on the ground. If one tried to torque the wheels in the air, there is the possibility of bending or tweaking suspension arms.
Sorry to all for using my memory.......
The way we do it in the cups (which would likely work for the street vehicles) is to snug down the wheels in the air, and then do final torque on the ground. If one tried to torque the wheels in the air, there is the possibility of bending or tweaking suspension arms.
Sorry to all for using my memory.......
#68
Rennlist Member
I'd want to use the Porsche lube to ensure that everything was kosher ...
#69
Rennlist Member
#70
Rennlist Member
#71
The breaker bar from Porsche is collapsable and has the advantage that the head doesn't pivot. It makes the CL removal very fast and easy.
Pick your dealer - here it is from Suncoast
I also found that putting a bit of lubricant on the rubber o-ring on the dust cap helps with subsequent removal.
NOTE>>>> I also lost my two front dust caps last weekend at Lime Rock so maybe this isn't such a great idea afterall!!!!
Pick your dealer - here it is from Suncoast
I also found that putting a bit of lubricant on the rubber o-ring on the dust cap helps with subsequent removal.
NOTE>>>> I also lost my two front dust caps last weekend at Lime Rock so maybe this isn't such a great idea afterall!!!!
Last edited by Blaine S; 09-28-2010 at 04:54 PM.
#72
Rennlist Member
The breaker bar from Porsche is collapsable and has the advantage that the head doesn't pivot. It makes the CL removal very fast and easy.
Pick your dealer - here it is from Suncoast
I also found that putting a bit of lubricant on the rubber o-ring on the dust cap helps with subsequent removal.
Pick your dealer - here it is from Suncoast
I also found that putting a bit of lubricant on the rubber o-ring on the dust cap helps with subsequent removal.
#73
Three Wheelin'
#74
Three Wheelin'
give me a chill spine when thinking about it. money making has been so easy for Porsche. take note. the file was issued yesterday. i'm wondering how many tubes of grease they sell today.
#75
Rennlist Member
Hey Larry,
Went for the snap on 3/4" breaker head and snap on 3' handle.. Works great but Porsche tool wasn't available at the time.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....ia&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....ia&dir=catalog
If I were buying now, I would take the Porsche breaker because it can be carried in the car a lot easier... For long trips, if you suffer a tyre failure, tyre shops don't have a 3/4" drive breaker to even get your wheel off the car for a repair. At least with the Porsche breaker, you can get it off, repaired and back on again following the emergency torquing procedure without having to find somewhere to put a 3-4' breaker bar or without waiting a few hours for Porsche assist if you're in remote areas...
Went for the snap on 3/4" breaker head and snap on 3' handle.. Works great but Porsche tool wasn't available at the time.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....ia&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....ia&dir=catalog
If I were buying now, I would take the Porsche breaker because it can be carried in the car a lot easier... For long trips, if you suffer a tyre failure, tyre shops don't have a 3/4" drive breaker to even get your wheel off the car for a repair. At least with the Porsche breaker, you can get it off, repaired and back on again following the emergency torquing procedure without having to find somewhere to put a 3-4' breaker bar or without waiting a few hours for Porsche assist if you're in remote areas...
Last edited by 911rox; 09-18-2010 at 07:24 AM.