scott40

Guys that have done this- what is the effect on low end torque by doing this? Reduced? The only benefit is what- sound?

Can anyone comment on sound difference between doing this and say something like the Sharwerks center delete?

Larry Cable

Sharky has some videos on his site comparing the cars w & w/o sport and sharkwerks bypass ...

The advantage of the bypass is you lose the weight and you get better sound without having to open the valves all the time ...

Carrera GT

The center delete is a whole new sound.
"pulling the plug" will also pull low- and mid-range torque, most noticeable on the GT3, but on the 2010 GT3 RS, it's still noticeable.
The ideal solution is a three position switch: quiet, normal, loud. Easily done from spare parts (maybe someone can supply those part numbers, it's just a single male connector to go into the valve controller and a female connector to connect to the existing male connect (to create a "normal" circuit.)

scott40

So does the ideal situation involve putting in the center delete system? Guess I don't understand how the three way switch would give you different sounds- but I like the concept.

Carrera GT

This (famous!) thread explains and illustrates how the flap works::
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...inger-tip.html

Watch the video on that thread.

Basically, the flap is in the side mufflers. If the Sport button is "off" then 12V keeps the flaps closed. If there's no voltage applied the flaps remain open and gases are routed through the side muffs. If 12V is applied, the flaps close and passes gas directly to the center muff and things get 100db+ loud.


The first idea is to simply remove the power supply connection and the flaps stay open and everything is quiet down low, but that robs the engine of breathing above about 4500rpm when the flaps should open (even with Sport "Off".) So the challenge is to have three states:

quiet (voltage off and flaps closed at all rpm = Laguna friendly, but stifles mid- high- rpm power)
normal (voltage controlled by factory systems and the Sport button, noise above 4500rpm)
loud (voltage applied, flaps open at all rpm, loud pedal enabled.)

If the objective is pass sound at Laguna, get the switch or get 90 degree elbows at 45 degree angle from the road. See my other posts for that device.

If the objective is loud on the street, get the switch.

If there's a need for a quick fix to pass sound at Laguna, pull the plug and accept a slower climb up the hill and a little less oomph out of the turns.

As for the center delete pipe or other mods, keep in mind you run the risk of warranty implications and the dealer can't do much to help, but if you track the car, you don't have warranty anyway, so it's a decision for each owner to address.

scott40

Tracking really voids the warranty? What a joke.

jmachul

Pm Sent

brownan

I don't think this is actually the case at least in the US (my dealer knows I track both my Turbo and my RS and they could care less....the slave cylinder was just replaced this week on the Turbo and we joked that it was because the car has 40 track days). A colleague just mentioned that Porsche UK takes this stance however. Will investigate further....

mooty

warranty is really based on if dealer will goto bat for you.
some dealers are lazy
some are very very good and they know what's fraud and what can and should be warrantied even if you tracked.

Carrera GT

Indeed. The dealer can do a lot to help the customer. Still, there's no two ways about it -- if the Porsche regional service person inspects the car and gives it the thumbs down on an LSD or an RMS, no amount of good will can write the work order as a warranty event.

I've had new 911's on the track for quite a while now and when things fail, like a master cylinder (hell, that's rare) then no problem. Even if you had a power steering connector fail, it's all surely under warranty. But if you gouge a PCCB rotor with a worn brake pad, well, those early days of the 996 GT2 "first time on us" coverage are history. I'm not speaking from conjecture or opinion. If you happen to fry a PCCB rotor, even on the street for all intents, if you can use your capital as a good customer to leverage a one time warranty event, then great, but there's no truth in setting that expectation as a conventional warranty situation, because Porsche has made it abundantly clear, it's not open to negotiation.

I look at it this way: all cars, even Porsches, require preparation for the track. In the case of recent models, that includes taking out the factory LSD, removing the factory ceramic brakes and replacing some things like power steering connectors with components from the GT3 Cup. All in all, not a big deal.

If you look at the debacle Ferrari has created for themselves with the Ferrari flambé 458's by first sandbagging and blaming the customer for the way they drove the car (sounds like Porsche and the early PCCB problems, doesn't it?) and now we find it's a flammable adhesive in the body trim, well, I think Porsche has the same problem with denying the engine seals and denying the drivetrain weakness. It certainly leaves me (as a driver of new Porsches at the track) thinking I need to wake up and go get a race car and stop this nonsense of buying new 911's and thinking everything will be alright.

mooty

that happened to me before.
but dealer paid for my labor. i just paid for part as warranty was declined.
no, it's not the dealer near us.
and i am losing faith with THAT one.
i still go there a lot. but only to eat the $1.25 taco truck outside.