Advice! please...wheel situation!
#1
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So I found out I bent my stock front right wheel beyond repair. I already have bridgestone RE-11 tires (brand new, got them before i knew i bent my wheel) at my shop.
Options are:
1. Buy 1 oem wheel from porsche, price is appx $2050! and use the RE-11's. Or is anyone selling a stock 19??
2. Get CCW's in 18s and order new tires, sell the RE-11's. But I wanted to use a tire that would last longer the MPSC. I could order R888, i hear they last longer...but I really dont need an R-comp tire for my daily driving. If I do get the 18s what tire options do I have... MPSC and Pirelli are 2 expensive and disappear quick (mine are about gone close to 3k miles). So I know there is the R888, the NT01 comes in 315/30/18 but wouldnt I need a 315/35/18 or would that work? Any other options? They dont make the RE-11s wide enough in 18s...so that leaves me w/ the R888s as my only option
3. Order 19s, maybe forgeline and use the RE-11's...they have some nice looking wheels (thinking if i bend a 3 piece wheel then i can always send it to company to be fixed, right? cause it would prob just be the barrel. or bbs, gmg etc. Cars been costing me alot trying not to spend too much. And figure i could sell my stock wheels, im sure people will be bending theirs or for whatever other reason i could sell them and re-coup some money.
Any input would be greatly appreciated...or PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU SEE STOCK WHEELS FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU SEE STOCK WHEELS FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Options are:
1. Buy 1 oem wheel from porsche, price is appx $2050! and use the RE-11's. Or is anyone selling a stock 19??
2. Get CCW's in 18s and order new tires, sell the RE-11's. But I wanted to use a tire that would last longer the MPSC. I could order R888, i hear they last longer...but I really dont need an R-comp tire for my daily driving. If I do get the 18s what tire options do I have... MPSC and Pirelli are 2 expensive and disappear quick (mine are about gone close to 3k miles). So I know there is the R888, the NT01 comes in 315/30/18 but wouldnt I need a 315/35/18 or would that work? Any other options? They dont make the RE-11s wide enough in 18s...so that leaves me w/ the R888s as my only option
3. Order 19s, maybe forgeline and use the RE-11's...they have some nice looking wheels (thinking if i bend a 3 piece wheel then i can always send it to company to be fixed, right? cause it would prob just be the barrel. or bbs, gmg etc. Cars been costing me alot trying not to spend too much. And figure i could sell my stock wheels, im sure people will be bending theirs or for whatever other reason i could sell them and re-coup some money.
Any input would be greatly appreciated...or PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU SEE STOCK WHEELS FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU SEE STOCK WHEELS FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#3
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If you haven't used a tire, most places will take it back within a reasonable amount of time and credit towards your preferred purchase.
A single GT3 front should be $1K, not $2K ... sounds more like full price for a rear 19. Discounters and site sponsors like sunset should improve your numbers there.
R888's are not the great street or track regardless of whatever durability. Can't say I'm a big fan of Bridgestone street tires including the RE11. Their Revo off-road tires are great.
3K for N spec semi-slicks like Sport Cups or Corsa's is a bit short. 5K street is do-able. 12-15 track days is possible.
Nitto and Yokohama both make good street performance tires, as does Michelin and Pirelli. They're all within $20-30 and it comes down to specifics and preferences, not broad assertions that one is better than the other. I'd suggest the PS2 as a starting point -- similarly expensive, but an good all-rounder N-rated tire. If you're mostly on the track, the tread block and void can be a liability -- they move and heat up quickly, they store the heat and they don't communicate. On the street, they're better for heating up and working at road driving limits plus there's puncture and rain considerations. It's all relative.
Forgeline is very good as is CCW. All wheels bend. Even a repairable tree-piece can bend an outer and end up with a crack in the center. And the repair is not cheap necessarily. If you've bent a 997 factory wheel without splitting or cracking, it can be repaired. I'd have the dealer get Wheel Enhancement to look at your situation for a second opinion on repair or replacement -- they're honest, ethical people with a domain expertise. A dealer and the local wheel repairer might see one damaged GT3 wheel in three months and have not necessarily ever exhausted the options for repair or pursued the best price when customers tend to just eat it and want the car back on the road.
Selling anything, especially wheels and tires is a thankless job. It might sound easy enough, but you have to be in a position to absorb the time sink. Anything a wheel vendor will give you in trade is usually the better option unless you're trying to make ends meet on your car budget and can afford the time.
Also, if you really did kill the wheel, have someone check the suspension thoroughly. If the impact was a sideways curb strike, there's several weak points that can fail later but might not exhibit symptoms at first.
A single GT3 front should be $1K, not $2K ... sounds more like full price for a rear 19. Discounters and site sponsors like sunset should improve your numbers there.
R888's are not the great street or track regardless of whatever durability. Can't say I'm a big fan of Bridgestone street tires including the RE11. Their Revo off-road tires are great.
3K for N spec semi-slicks like Sport Cups or Corsa's is a bit short. 5K street is do-able. 12-15 track days is possible.
Nitto and Yokohama both make good street performance tires, as does Michelin and Pirelli. They're all within $20-30 and it comes down to specifics and preferences, not broad assertions that one is better than the other. I'd suggest the PS2 as a starting point -- similarly expensive, but an good all-rounder N-rated tire. If you're mostly on the track, the tread block and void can be a liability -- they move and heat up quickly, they store the heat and they don't communicate. On the street, they're better for heating up and working at road driving limits plus there's puncture and rain considerations. It's all relative.
Forgeline is very good as is CCW. All wheels bend. Even a repairable tree-piece can bend an outer and end up with a crack in the center. And the repair is not cheap necessarily. If you've bent a 997 factory wheel without splitting or cracking, it can be repaired. I'd have the dealer get Wheel Enhancement to look at your situation for a second opinion on repair or replacement -- they're honest, ethical people with a domain expertise. A dealer and the local wheel repairer might see one damaged GT3 wheel in three months and have not necessarily ever exhausted the options for repair or pursued the best price when customers tend to just eat it and want the car back on the road.
Selling anything, especially wheels and tires is a thankless job. It might sound easy enough, but you have to be in a position to absorb the time sink. Anything a wheel vendor will give you in trade is usually the better option unless you're trying to make ends meet on your car budget and can afford the time.
Also, if you really did kill the wheel, have someone check the suspension thoroughly. If the impact was a sideways curb strike, there's several weak points that can fail later but might not exhibit symptoms at first.
#4
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How did you bend the wheel.
Do you have a 2010 GT3 or RS with center lock wheels? Just trying to understand the $2000 cost of 1 cast wheel. 1- OEM GT3 5 lug wheel does not cost $2000
Do you have a 2010 GT3 or RS with center lock wheels? Just trying to understand the $2000 cost of 1 cast wheel. 1- OEM GT3 5 lug wheel does not cost $2000
#5
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#6
#7
GT3 player par excellence
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if you want oem, call suncsoast.
full set is 5800 or so so can't be 2000 for just single.
full set is 5800 or so so can't be 2000 for just single.
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#8
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Thanks Mooty! im going to try them tomorrow!