mooty

there is a rubber line hooked into a bracket. that has to come off, else caliper will not back up far enough to come off the caliper studs.

tasman

Yeah that rubber line is kinda a pain in the butt.

orthofrancis

Quick question. Roughly how many times did you guys remove your rotors before the bolt(s) pulled out?

garyever

Browsing some of the earlier comments, appears everyone posting got away away with minimal damage from the caliper bolt issues. This happened to a BMW a couple years back tracking with me at PIR due to his not torquing the caliber bolts. Tire caught fire and and car sustained serious damage. That oval shaped object mid picture is his airborne front caliber flying trough the smoke from the front tire. One still frame taken out of a professional photographer's series of stutter snaps.

Glyndellis

Any comments regarding the number of caliper removals before the threads stripped?

obsessedone

Like most other things, it depends. Best prevention - clean threads before re-assembly with brake cleaner, assemble with dry threads and do not overtorque. Wet or lubricated threads (anti-sieze, etc.) will lead to over torquing even with torque wrench - specs are for dry assembly.
If car is occasionally tracked, above should keep you out of trouble, if heavily or exclusively tracked with frequent pad and rotor changes, do yourself a favor and change to studs sooner rather than later. If you find bits of aluminum threads on the caliper bolt during disassembly inspect and remedy.

audipwr1

Always hand tighten and make sure you can turn it multiple times before you use socket

bmwtye

Remember what happened when we hand tightened a caliper stud... I'm still scarred by that

audipwr1

Tye - that was a defective stud though