Carrera GT

999-067-053-09 CYLINDER SCRE FRONT CALIPER BOLTS
999-067-040-01 PAN-HEAD SCRE REAR CALIPER BOLTS


Very handy. Thanks!

Kind of like have the relay for a 993 ... one of those things you should keep a spare around for your 911 ... caliper bolts and time-sert kit ... along with a diff ... RMS and drip pan ... coolant connectors ... power steering connectors ... a note permanently affixed to the rear of the car indicating the lurid plume of blue smoke at start-up is "normal ... they all do that ..."


Just kidding!

savyboy

Lol...

Electric Lizard

As usual, this is interesting information. I will be receiving my new-to-me 2010 GT3 next week. It has PCCBs. Do these brakes have the same problem?

Carrera GT

You mean you'd blame the car for your losing control if the rear calipers came off and jammed the rear wheels in "unplanned land-anchor" mode?

ps. Yes, same caliper design for steels and ceramics, only the paint is different.

TrackDays247.com

The heat, brake dust, etc....and what this does to the ability and longevity of the system as a whole...not to mention the subsequent need for removal of the bolts to do pads. Man.

Electric Lizard

I don't understand.

Thanks. I guess I need to re-learn brake pad changing.

deutschmick

As mentioned earlier, it's a rather stupid design, but the positives of your new GT3 will far outweigh the negatives.

You'll love it, warts and all!

Terry L

Just to follow up on the stud concept, I have discussed it with my shop (Dougherty Automotive, West Chester, PA). They have a cup car or two on the premises at all times and will look at the rear calipers. But here is a concern they mentioned. The studs are anchored with red Loctite or equivalent. The nut on the stud tends to merge with the stud after lots of applications of heat, strain, etc. When it's time to remove the nut to get to the caliper, will the stud just break out of the hub instead of the nut breaking loose? Comments? Experience with this setup?

TRAKCAR

I just picked up my car with studs, to remove the rear caliper I must now undo one 10mm bolt to have enough room to move the caliper of the studs. I do not have the specs yet, but they are different due to differnt uprights rear than a CUP car.

My thoughts are that studs work fine to hold wheels on and the heb/wheel geet very hot as weel and certainly had more forces to deal with. I just know for sure that blots with our without Time Serts do not work long.

911rox

Hey Trak, thanx for the update.... how do they secure the calipers with just 1 bolt? TIA

TRAKCAR

Sorry, I should have said undo 1 additional bolt to get more give in the brake line.
Plus the 2 nuts off the studs to remove caliper.

TT Surgeon

I've seen it on Turbos as well, the stupidest thing porsche ever did imo. Can't say I change the bolts each and every time I do the pads, maybe I will from now on!

Asquared

I just got back from the dealer. A set of four bolts for the rear cost $48 bucks. So, if I want to flip the rear pads to extend their life, I gotta pay $50 for new bolts each time. That's a very bad design.

I may have to look into some of the options discussed here.

Carrera GT

The rears won't "wedge" like the front pads -- they're too small to move that much on the pistons. My pads at 50% wear have not started to wedge much at all.

Asquared

Thanks. You will have to forgive the newb comment. I thought I read somewhere on here recently that the rears should be flipped.

I'm replacing my rear pads this weekend, so I will see what they look like.