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failure of rear caliper bolt

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Old 06-20-2012, 07:25 PM
  #76  
akirasan
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They've been led to accepting their responsibility, and your point is well taken - any sound will result in a direct exit from the surface in as orderly a manner as possible.
Old 06-20-2012, 11:24 PM
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Good meeting you, wish it was while under better circumstances. Glad to hear that the shop is going to make good.
Old 06-20-2012, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by akirasan
They've been led to accepting their responsibility, and your point is well taken - any sound will result in a direct exit from the surface in as orderly a manner as possible.
I think it's the mark of distinction when a shop stands accountable for their work and fixes their mistakes. As they say in the industry, everyone makes mistakes, that's not to be excused, but it's how we deal with the consequences that is the measure of a professional.

I assume they'll go through the car pretty throughly. It might look like an isolated event, but the force to separate even a loose caliper bolt and then through the caliper around the wheel, there's been a lot of forces in vectors that the suspension is not expected to tolerate. A wheel carrier and every link would be the minimum. I'd want close inspection of each point of attachment to the chassis, I'd be looking along the brake line and in every direction to see if the steering rack was compromised, etc. I imagine the shop will be deep into their insurance before the job is done. Of course they also need to go through the whole of the car "nut and bolt" to see what was correctly torqued, what was paint marked as done, what was overlooked or simply neglected. This operation alone could run into hundreds of dollars in new hardware to be sure the car is 100%.
Old 06-21-2012, 02:21 AM
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mooty
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who is this local shop?
Old 06-21-2012, 12:22 PM
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akirasan
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I'd rather defer that answer until the work is complete, be happy to share the overall process at that time.
Old 07-13-2012, 06:48 PM
  #81  
akirasan
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Last post here on the shop side, don't want to derail the intent of the thread - all follow-ups will be under West Region.

Over the course of 3.5 weeks the shop fixed most of the damage on their dime, replacing wheel, tire, caliper & hose, upright and Girodisc bolts & spacers (Thanks Mike@RSS). Since the one rotor was toast I had both rings replaced, but when they were reassembling everything they texted to tell me they couldn't get torque on the passenger caliper - top started to give at 40, bottom at 25. Only think I could think was "WTF, you did it again?" I let them go the Timesert route but had the car released directly to reputable shop to do an all-up inspection. When the went to look at the repairs, the just-installed inserts came out with the bolts. Needless to say, the upright is trash - the original shops response: "Why did you take the bolts out, they were torqued to factory spec..." No Thunderhill for me this weekend...
Old 07-13-2012, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by akirasan
Last post here on the shop side, don't want to derail the intent of the thread - all follow-ups will be under West Region.

Over the course of 3.5 weeks the shop fixed most of the damage on their dime, replacing wheel, tire, caliper & hose, upright and Girodisc bolts & spacers (Thanks Mike@RSS). Since the one rotor was toast I had both rings replaced, but when they were reassembling everything they texted to tell me they couldn't get torque on the passenger caliper - top started to give at 40, bottom at 25. Only think I could think was "WTF, you did it again?" I let them go the Timesert route but had the car released directly to reputable shop to do an all-up inspection. When the went to look at the repairs, the just-installed inserts came out with the bolts. Needless to say, the upright is trash - the original shops response: "Why did you take the bolts out, they were torqued to factory spec..." No Thunderhill for me this weekend...
That's a sad answer. Did you happen to document the break-away torque to release the caliper bolts? Did the time-serts both unwind? If so, they surely did not drilled and expanded correctly. That doesn't waste the wheel carrier, but at this point, I agree with your position as the customer to say "no more second chances" especially for a car going directly to the track. Sad state of affairs and they need to be reported to the BAR.
Old 04-11-2013, 07:58 PM
  #83  
Hapster
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I just today joined the timesert club. One rear failed. The original threads came out almost intact. I am therefore timeserting all four rears. M12X1.5X24. And while I am at it, I plan also on doing the fronts. Question for all before I order parts: Do the fronts take the same size timesert? 997.1 gt3 pccb.
Old 04-15-2013, 01:35 PM
  #84  
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I have 24 rear cup studs in stock.
Old 04-15-2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig - RennStore.com
I have 24 rear cup studs in stock.
PM sent.
Old 04-15-2013, 04:10 PM
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Gofishracing
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oh my. I've used 7 sets of new bolts recently with bad Giro Discs on and off car - DEMAN rotors on car now. Now I'm paranoid about the threads.
Old 04-15-2013, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig - RennStore.com
I have 24 rear cup studs in stock.
OEM 997 cup studs or ????
does each stud also come with OEM cup car nut?
ONLY THE OEM CUP CAR NUTS will fit. any other nut.... yes, it also fits.... after 30 min of grinding PER NUT.
Old 04-15-2013, 04:25 PM
  #88  
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Yes. These are PMNA nuts - and studs. USE NOTHING ELSE.
Old 04-15-2013, 04:29 PM
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Generally, rears are more troublesome than the front. You gotta take off the stinkin' rear caliper to remove the pads.
Old 04-15-2013, 04:29 PM
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^ cool, that's what you guys should get.
dont try to save the pennies, you will be cussing in front of you kids if you got the wrong nuts.


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