Working on it.

I did all 8 bolts on my last GT3 with the Time Serts parts above (Have extra if you want.) and it seemed to work well. I still think long term, I prefer studs, but I just got them, so I don't know. My shop is Orbit, they do a lot of work on Cup cars, they all have studs, he seemed to prefer studs, so I am going with his recommendation.

 

Yes, I too am not able to understand how this would not be a warranty item, especially if the dealer is doing the pad changes.

Also, if this problem is present on all 997s, it should be fairly widespread. Does PCNA know it's a problem?

 

I think it is only the GT3s that you have to remove the caliper bolts to change pads. The regular removal of the bolts seems to be the problem, so I think it's only a major issue on the GT3s, and you would only have to change pads frequently if you track it regularly, which they probably what they use to say it's not covered under warranty.

 

So the Turbo and GT2 have a different design?

It's totally ridiculous that Porsche builds and markets a car for the track and street, and won't cover items such as this under warranty.

 

Does anyone actually know what PCNA's official stance is on this issue? This is not a repeat of the M96 engine's IMS or RMS problems due to the safety aspect, the apparent fix cost and the much smaller number of units involved. You would think that the recent Toyota fiasco would have taught manufacturers not to mess with braking issues.

 

I'm sure Porsche's "official" stance is simply that it doesn't exist and some drivers are driving in a way that causes the failure of an otherwise perfect work of engineering. I believe the marketing tag line from Porsche for 2011 is "Some people don't deserve to drive Porsches."

 

Heading to track and didn't have a lot of time so did 2 damaged holes only (still only took about an hour & sure it will be quicker next time). Plan to do other side when I get back from track - they will certainly fail sooner or later. I often change rotors at the track - rather do this in the luxury of my home garage and do it when I have no time pressure even though it is a fairly quick job.

Not an overly challenging DIY, just be careful to make sure the drill and tap are lined up with the original hole, they tend to follow the hole, but you could go crooked if not careful. Since if you screw up replacing the carrier will be around $1k might be good to let your shop do the TImesert if there is any question of having the skills necessary.

 

I put two timeserts in LR caliper yesterday. Once I had the right tools, it was very easy (I had to buy a new drill because the one I had was too big to get square inside the wheel well). If I can do it, anyone can.

I bought enough inserts to do all four wheels, but I'm going to do them when I'm already in the there for something else.

 

Allen,

Blackhawk on Wednesday. test your brakes.

 

Unfortunately, I can't on Wednesday, but I only have to wait another week until ABCC with Chin and then TRAC the following weekend where I can repay the beers I owe you.

 

[QUOTE=TRAKCAR;7750878]I just picked up my car with studs, to remove the rear caliper I must now undo one 10mm bolt to have enough room to move the caliper of the studs. I do not have the specs yet, but they are different due to differnt uprights rear than a CUP car.QUOTE]

TRAKCAR - I was wondering if you had any additional information on these studs? Are they a part that can be easily sourced or something that was fabricated by the shop you work with? I would like to deal with this proactively rather than after a failure but being in WI it is a bit impractical for me to take it to the shop that did your work!

Realizing the front caliper only needs to be removed when swapping rotors does this become a concern on the fronts as well for cars that see frequent track use?

 

I never got an actual part number and will ask again next week when I bring my car in, but it should be the same thread as the bolt, just longer right?

I did the fronts, but the fronts should be OK for a while.

 

Did you ever get any part numbers on the studs? Or length and type of nut?
TIA

 

Update?

 

I had a front caliper bolt fail also. So timecert all of them.