'10RS first track day at Sebring cordered Hoosiers
#1
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This was my first day on track with the car, so I did not go nuts. Yet.
I had to get used to new gearing, bounced of the rev. limiter a lot![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Very impressed, it is so easy to drive, better suspension, gearing, downforce, HP, engine mounts.. I do not know what does what, but the sum of the parts is very impressive. I LOVE THIS CAR![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
The car is better than me, I will need some coaching.
Very little clearing with BBS, the balancing weights scratched the front calipers..
Ther car worked the best with all buttons activated, shocks stiff, sport, SC and TC off..
I know only rotors changed, but the car brakes solid, SRF overflowed all over the place..Better than MKI for some reason, I think ABS better also?
I ran -2 camber front and rear, the rears wear on the outside edge, the fronts corded on the inside edge.
Sway bars front and rear one hole from full soft. It handeled great, maybe a bit of push!
Temps were 200F even inside, middle, outside. Front even 160-170F inside, middle, outside.. Tire pressure hot 38-40PSI Front, 40Rear.
The fronts I used before, they looked fine, now corded the inside.
With the above numbers aI should be OK??
Could it be that I push the car too much before the PSI goes up? I leave the pit at about 30-32PSI all around..
Any advice is welcome, going back next week and I don't want to kill another set.
Hopefully Youtube later..
I had to get used to new gearing, bounced of the rev. limiter a lot
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Very impressed, it is so easy to drive, better suspension, gearing, downforce, HP, engine mounts.. I do not know what does what, but the sum of the parts is very impressive. I LOVE THIS CAR
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
The car is better than me, I will need some coaching.
Very little clearing with BBS, the balancing weights scratched the front calipers..
Ther car worked the best with all buttons activated, shocks stiff, sport, SC and TC off..
I know only rotors changed, but the car brakes solid, SRF overflowed all over the place..Better than MKI for some reason, I think ABS better also?
I ran -2 camber front and rear, the rears wear on the outside edge, the fronts corded on the inside edge.
Sway bars front and rear one hole from full soft. It handeled great, maybe a bit of push!
Temps were 200F even inside, middle, outside. Front even 160-170F inside, middle, outside.. Tire pressure hot 38-40PSI Front, 40Rear.
The fronts I used before, they looked fine, now corded the inside.
With the above numbers aI should be OK??
Could it be that I push the car too much before the PSI goes up? I leave the pit at about 30-32PSI all around..
Any advice is welcome, going back next week and I don't want to kill another set.
Hopefully Youtube later..
#3
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Awesome! So far all tracking posts I have read are very positive. I know you have been waiting very patiently to thrash this car.
Suggestion- tighten rear bar one hole (to full stiff) and pull the camber back out of the front. See if handling is now (much more) neutral and you don't devastate a tire budget (for no good reason I would argue).
With the different suspension mount points and lowered roll center you don't need the camber. You have baseline lap times now. See if they stay same or improve with above changes.
Also- I am now at 31F 35R cold (nitrogen).
AND...lol...I would suggest you try leaving PSM/Traction control ON. And see if the parameters allow you to get plenty loose enough, so that you are actually slow. I find it rarely invokes unless I am bad out of shape.
I think Adam also pulled the camber back out of his, but he will probably read this and comment.
Suggestion- tighten rear bar one hole (to full stiff) and pull the camber back out of the front. See if handling is now (much more) neutral and you don't devastate a tire budget (for no good reason I would argue).
With the different suspension mount points and lowered roll center you don't need the camber. You have baseline lap times now. See if they stay same or improve with above changes.
Also- I am now at 31F 35R cold (nitrogen).
AND...lol...I would suggest you try leaving PSM/Traction control ON. And see if the parameters allow you to get plenty loose enough, so that you are actually slow. I find it rarely invokes unless I am bad out of shape.
I think Adam also pulled the camber back out of his, but he will probably read this and comment.
#4
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Nice you finally made it out! Your fronts were used? How many HCs were on them before and how many HCs did you do this weekend? Your ending pressures/temp sound ok. Nothing to do with pushing car on on low pressures. I usually start at 24-26 and end up at 38-42(at 42 they suck!). Nice tip on the front wheel weights.. I'll check where mine are on the wheels. Did the tires rotate on the rims at all?
#5
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Awesome! So far all tracking posts I have read are very positive. I know you have been waiting very patiently to thrash this car.
Suggestion- tighten rear bar one hole (to full stiff) and pull the camber back out of the front. See if handling is now (much more) neutral and you don't devastate a tire budget (for no good reason I would argue).
With the different suspension mount points and lowered roll center you don't need the camber. You have baseline lap times now. See if they stay same or improve with above changes.
Also- I am now at 31F 35R cold (nitrogen).
AND...lol...I would suggest you try leaving PSM/Traction control ON. And see if the parameters allow you to get plenty loose enough, so that you are actually slow. I find it rarely invokes unless I am bad out of shape.
I think Adam also pulled the camber back out of his, but he will probably read this and comment.
Suggestion- tighten rear bar one hole (to full stiff) and pull the camber back out of the front. See if handling is now (much more) neutral and you don't devastate a tire budget (for no good reason I would argue).
With the different suspension mount points and lowered roll center you don't need the camber. You have baseline lap times now. See if they stay same or improve with above changes.
Also- I am now at 31F 35R cold (nitrogen).
AND...lol...I would suggest you try leaving PSM/Traction control ON. And see if the parameters allow you to get plenty loose enough, so that you are actually slow. I find it rarely invokes unless I am bad out of shape.
I think Adam also pulled the camber back out of his, but he will probably read this and comment.
I was thinking that maybe I soften the front bar a bit before I go stiffer in the rear first..
Your temps are OK for Michelins, but Hoosiers like 38-40F..
I tried with TC and SC on, figuring I build up slowly over the next few weekends, but the car is so easy to drive and slide it was cutting off throttle everywhere, that went out the window on lap 1, so I truned it off on lap 2 ;-), I'm always out of shape, hehehe..
Maybe it is as simple as taking camer of the front and add it to the rear?!
Your fronts were used?
I forgot to mark the tires, so I don't know if they rotated, but no fibration all day, so I think not. I will mark them next weekend..
BTW, it was 94F today!
#6
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wow, you and rmag run R6 very hot. i never let them go above 36hot.
i have never corded my R6. usually they die from HC'ing. if your rears were new and fronts are 15HC, they may explain some of your push.
i have never corded my R6. usually they die from HC'ing. if your rears were new and fronts are 15HC, they may explain some of your push.
#7
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Awesome! So far all tracking posts I have read are very positive. I know you have been waiting very patiently to thrash this car.
Suggestion- tighten rear bar one hole (to full stiff) and pull the camber back out of the front. See if handling is now (much more) neutral and you don't devastate a tire budget (for no good reason I would argue).
With the different suspension mount points and lowered roll center you don't need the camber. You have baseline lap times now. See if they stay same or improve with above changes.
Also- I am now at 31F 35R cold (nitrogen).
AND...lol...I would suggest you try leaving PSM/Traction control ON. And see if the parameters allow you to get plenty loose enough, so that you are actually slow. I find it rarely invokes unless I am bad out of shape.
I think Adam also pulled the camber back out of his, but he will probably read this and comment.
Suggestion- tighten rear bar one hole (to full stiff) and pull the camber back out of the front. See if handling is now (much more) neutral and you don't devastate a tire budget (for no good reason I would argue).
With the different suspension mount points and lowered roll center you don't need the camber. You have baseline lap times now. See if they stay same or improve with above changes.
Also- I am now at 31F 35R cold (nitrogen).
AND...lol...I would suggest you try leaving PSM/Traction control ON. And see if the parameters allow you to get plenty loose enough, so that you are actually slow. I find it rarely invokes unless I am bad out of shape.
I think Adam also pulled the camber back out of his, but he will probably read this and comment.
Early days, so it's hard to say. We're just sharing first observations.
Personally, I'd start from stock, get the car "square" with the specs in the owner's manual and make incremental changes, one setting at a time.
I'd leave camber stock and sort out the tire temps. I think Savy is pretty much right on -- low 30's depending upon ambient and using Nitrogen to help street tires (Corsa or Sport Cup) deal with the prodigious power and traction of the new RS.
I think the new RS is a new car, so while experience with previous 911's is useful, it's not necessarily applicable.
There is no question that SC and TC should remain on until such time as top level pro drivers prove the car can achieve higher performance levels with the safeties off.
Hearing that the BBS don't clear the calipers is a disappointment -- BBS should be ashamed. Perhaps they figure you don't need to weight balance the tires? Maybe they have low profile weights? Sheesh.
Overall, I share the first impression that this new RS is a lot of car and even highly skilled drivers will find themselves needing to "sharpen" their skills to access its potential. Safety gear, roll cages, HANS and discretion will be the better part of valor.
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#8
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Ha Ha... Yea, I shoot for 38, but never seem to hit it no matter how low I start. I started at 22 once, and the first 3 laps really sucked ... felt the tire was going to peal off the rim.
15HC out of hoosiers before they cord isn't too bad in these cars.
15HC out of hoosiers before they cord isn't too bad in these cars.
#9
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i have never corded my R6. usually they die from HC'ing. if your rears were new and fronts are 15HC, they may explain some of your push.
I'd leave camber stock and sort out the tire temps. I think Savy is pretty much right on -- low 30's depending upon ambient and using Nitrogen to help street tires (Corsa or Sport Cup) deal with the prodigious power and traction of the new RS.
I think the new RS is a new car, so while experience with previous 911's is useful, it's not necessarily applicable.
There is no question that SC and TC should remain on until such time as top level pro drivers prove the car can achieve higher performance levels with the safeties off.
Hearing that the BBS don't clear the calipers is a disappointment -- BBS should be ashamed. Perhaps they figure you don't need to weight balance the tires? Maybe they have low profile weights? Sheesh.
Overall, I share the first impression that this new RS is a lot of car and even highly skilled drivers will find themselves needing to "sharpen" their skills to access its potential. Safety gear, roll cages, HANS and discretion will be the better part of valor.
I think the new RS is a new car, so while experience with previous 911's is useful, it's not necessarily applicable.
There is no question that SC and TC should remain on until such time as top level pro drivers prove the car can achieve higher performance levels with the safeties off.
Hearing that the BBS don't clear the calipers is a disappointment -- BBS should be ashamed. Perhaps they figure you don't need to weight balance the tires? Maybe they have low profile weights? Sheesh.
Overall, I share the first impression that this new RS is a lot of car and even highly skilled drivers will find themselves needing to "sharpen" their skills to access its potential. Safety gear, roll cages, HANS and discretion will be the better part of valor.
Sorry, I am no pro. At all. But I concider TC and SC undrivable, it cuts throttle way too much. Maybe because Sebring is too bumpy, but I could not be smooth enough to let it "help" me.
About BBS, my tire guy put a LOT of weigt on the fronts, They had a lot of crap and rubber on them that I picked up the last time out. Maybe he can move them in or out a bit with the new Hoosiers I now must buy. Ouch.
It is a lot of car, I hope to post Youtube tonight. Very fast. I am a bad driver, I never look at reference points, I brake when I get to scared to stay on the throttle. I was more scared, more often and earlier into the corner today ;-). I do have all the safety stuff
![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
15HC out of hoosiers before they cord isn't too bad in these cars.
I think I will have to go back to Toyo RA1's again...
.
.
.
.
.
After one more weekend of Hoosiers ;-)
2 action pics:
Last edited by TRAKCAR; 05-09-2010 at 12:50 AM.
#10
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I brake when I get to scared to stay on the throttle.
===> i like how you drive ;-)
at the upper run group, 15 HC hoosiers are no better than street tires.
try a set that's 2 HC. you be amazed at the difference.
===> i like how you drive ;-)
at the upper run group, 15 HC hoosiers are no better than street tires.
try a set that's 2 HC. you be amazed at the difference.
#11
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and i think i already drive it sideways
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#12
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Hmm, I corded them before on the inside but with more camber.. I never had a temp gauge, so I assumed too much, but todays temps showed nice and even..
I figured Hoosier VS Michelin would be OK for -0.5 more camber front and rear. It would seem, the front was too much and the rear not enough..I am not sure, i will talk to local experts Monday.
Sorry, I am no pro. At all. But I concider TC and SC undrivable, it cuts throttle way too much. Maybe because Sebring is too bumpy, but I could not be smooth enough to let it "help" me.
About BBS, my tire guy put a LOT of weigt on the fronts, They had a lot of crap and rubber on them that I picked up the last time out. Maybe he can move them in or out a bit with the new Hoosiers I now must buy. Ouch.
It is a lot of car, I hope to post Youtube tonight. Very fast. I am a bad driver, I never look at reference points, I brake when I get to scared to stay on the throttle. I was more scared, more often and earlier into the corner today ;-). I do have all the safety stuff![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
That's 2-3 days!! That is what I get out of used sets that I buy for $80.00 a set!
I think I will have to go back to Toyo RA1's again...
.
.
.
.
.
After one more weekend of Hoosiers ;-)
2 action pics:
I figured Hoosier VS Michelin would be OK for -0.5 more camber front and rear. It would seem, the front was too much and the rear not enough..I am not sure, i will talk to local experts Monday.
Sorry, I am no pro. At all. But I concider TC and SC undrivable, it cuts throttle way too much. Maybe because Sebring is too bumpy, but I could not be smooth enough to let it "help" me.
About BBS, my tire guy put a LOT of weigt on the fronts, They had a lot of crap and rubber on them that I picked up the last time out. Maybe he can move them in or out a bit with the new Hoosiers I now must buy. Ouch.
It is a lot of car, I hope to post Youtube tonight. Very fast. I am a bad driver, I never look at reference points, I brake when I get to scared to stay on the throttle. I was more scared, more often and earlier into the corner today ;-). I do have all the safety stuff
![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
That's 2-3 days!! That is what I get out of used sets that I buy for $80.00 a set!
I think I will have to go back to Toyo RA1's again...
.
.
.
.
.
After one more weekend of Hoosiers ;-)
2 action pics:
MY FAV 997.2 RS TO DATE! EXACTLY WHAT I WOULD DO!!
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
#13
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Sorry, I am no pro. At all. But I concider TC and SC undrivable, it cuts throttle way too much. Maybe because Sebring is too bumpy, but I could not be smooth enough to let it "help" me.
As far as the RS goes, I think any 911 driver worth their salt can have a helluva good track day if the thing was on PS2's and Carrera brakes. The suspension is just so far ahead of anything I've taken to the track in the last five years (no, I've never taken my namesake to the track...) I'm sure anyone can have fun in this car. I can't remember the last time a 911 since the 993 Turbo in 2WD that had me so keen to work a track day.
I'm itching for the next PCA time trials!*
* to be explained.
#14
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dude. I'm with mooty that you're WAY too hot on the hoo-hoos. I'd go with 35 front -37 rear hot. the tire compound has not changed in the last year for the R6, regardless of whatever the evolution of the gt3 has done.
driving a lot during the summers in TX I can relate to high ambient temps- you can start pretty low in the hoosiers "cold" as they don't tend to drop off too far during the day as the tarmac will go from 85* in the morning to 120* in the afternoon.
sebring is a fun track- my question is...how bumpy is the car in the stiff setting through 17??
driving a lot during the summers in TX I can relate to high ambient temps- you can start pretty low in the hoosiers "cold" as they don't tend to drop off too far during the day as the tarmac will go from 85* in the morning to 120* in the afternoon.
sebring is a fun track- my question is...how bumpy is the car in the stiff setting through 17??
#15
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I have to say SC/TC on the new RS is absolutely no impediment to speed. I was taught -- to learn a new car, track or whatever -- to short shift and use 50% throttle and progress incrementally until I run out of talent and then bring it back an inch and build up. Of course, the sad truth is, when I later go "***** out" 100% throttle and red-line, my lap times get worse ... : )
When I say I am no Pro, I mean hack, I drive school line and just trying to figure it out as I go ;-)
Good stuff guys; Thanks.
i will back down the PSI on the Hoosiers, but they only got to 40PSI the last few laps when pushing they got 39/40, but those where my high temps at the end of the day, I kept bleeding 2 PSI, so I drove around a lot with +/-37PSI.
I have TPM on BBS, I know not accurate, but checked with my gauge also.
It was really hot, 93-95F, so that did not help.
With the new car, it's like they smoothed out the bumps 50%! In stiff! It might also be that the car still sits nice and high, no scraping anywhere the old car scraped.