KBS911

I've decided to get 18 " CCW wheels for my 10 GT3. CCW is making the wheels now. Tires will be Toyo RA-1's.

I'd appreciate any feedback on 18"'s and/or RA-1's from those that have used them before. I noticed a post about loading, too. Is there a big difference in feel and performance with this set up or tires. Is this a good combo for DE's and AutoX.

Thanks.

fc-racer

I'm on my first set of RA1's and you definitely need to get them shaved. I thought the R888's were pretty bad when unshaved, but the RA1 is on a different level of bad. It's so bad that it feels like there are rubberbands connecting the steering wheel to the tires.

The overall grip is ok, I'm pulling about 1.2g sustained, but it feels awful getting there. They seem to be getting better with each session, but I've now been told that shaving them not only gets rid of this breaking-in phase, but also extends the tire life, so it's a win-win to shave them.

mooty

LOL, RA 1 is not driveable at full tread.
8/32

R888 is 6/32 and still not driveable full tread

2010 GT3, what size RA1?

10 GT3

CCW is only starting to make the first set this week. They are also not a true center lock. They are being made with lug holes. The idea is you will remove the wheel locators and use lug bolts. The center lock goes on, but it is used more like a hubcentric ring than a center lock. With the lug bolts, the center doesn't have to be torqued as high, making it easier to swap wheels if you have multiple sets.

RA1s are good tires for long life on a track. They are far from the fastest tires at the track or an Auto-X. In fact, they are harder than either OEM MPSCs or Corsas. They will last a lot longer, so if tire wear is your key parameter then RA1s should be at the top of your list.

C.J. Ichiban

RA-1s will last forever. shave them for sure.

brendo

• The harness bar I will want is the R-1029, due to the Bose speaker package.
• sub-strap mounts for the sport bucket seats(R-9032 Driver side/R-9034 Passenger Side), as well as a lap belt kit.

TIA

brendan.

mobonic

Ra1's are the shiz nit

yes I learned that you have to shave them.... took a corded set off and put unshaved on and lost 4 seconds a lap... ra1's get faster and faster all the way down to the cord... the exact opposite of the 888's

mdrums

I am back to running RA1's and had mine shaved to 5/32. I made the mistake years ago to go to the track with full tread RA1's....wow what a learning experience! Toyo R888's where not as bad full tread as RA1 but still...WOW.

IF you can find RA1 in 245/40/18 and 305/35/18 these will be the correct size and same diamter as the stock 19's. However from what I've learned is Toyo no longer makes the RA1's in sizes for the GT3/Carrera S.

mooty

245/305 RA1 was what i ran on 7.1GT3 and RS. but with the 2010 i need them wider.
oem is 235/315
most of us are targeting R6 at 255/335
but i would run RA1 if size is there.

Carrera GT

335 Hooters? What spring rate will you put in?

fc-racer

For those concerned about looks (i know, we shouldn't care, but I hate the fender gap you get with smaller diameter tires), this is how the 245/305 combo looks. It's the same diameter as stock so the car looks normal:

Targa Tim

^your red GT3 looks amazing!

NJ-GT

As far as I know Toyo stopped making the RA1 and phased it out with the R888. Then late last year they started making the RA-1 again but in small sizes (13/14/15/16/17). No production restarted on the 18", so the 18" tires available are the ones sitting on inventories and close to 2 years old.

RA1 are the best tires I ever used, as they got older they became faster. Quite slow at full tread, not too slow shaved and new, but the fastest before cording. I like them a lot.

I ran 275/35 and 335/30 on the 996 GT3, and would do the same to a wide body 997.

KBS911

[QUOTE=10 GT3;7541767]CCW is only starting to make the first set this week. They are also not a true center lock. They are being made with lug holes. The idea is you will remove the wheel locators and use lug bolts. The center lock goes on, but it is used more like a hubcentric ring than a center lock. With the lug bolts, the center doesn't have to be torqued as high, making it easier to swap wheels if you have multiple sets.

Actually the wheels will be true centerlock. I'm the guinea pig for the first set. John is checking to see whether or not the 5 alignment pins (see pics) are hiding a standard 5 lug female thread (the pattern is the same) and will accept a standard wheel bolt. If so he will make the wheel so that you can use conventional bolts if you so choose. The wheel will definetely stand alone as a centerlock and if the bolt holes are drilled into the wheel they would just slip over the red alignment pins. There are 15 concentric holes on the on the inside of the OEM wheel hub that help align the wheels over the red pins. They will be on the CCW wheel as well. John is trying to locate a center lock nut for final fitment checks. My local dealer did not have any in stock. If necessary I'll bring my car back up.

Thanks for the RA1 info.