texasviany

Is anyone checking and or changing the alignment settings upon delivery? Is there a difference between the euro and US settings? I am not going with a hard-core track set up because I plan a lot of street use. If there is a desired adjustment, I plan to have the dealer do it before I pick the car up.

Karl

NJ-GT

For street use, stay with the stock alignment. The new cars always come out of specs.

Carrera GT

The owner's manual says specifically that the street and "race circuit" specs are now the same.

In my opinion, there's push in the car, so I've add 0.5 deg camber on the front. There's so much rear grip, I think it's a matter of first trying to "meet" that rear plant before reducing the rear if needed. I think as little as adding 0.5 degrees will be enough to get the fronts working, but if not, I'll click up to 1.0 and see if the temps tell me I've gone too far.

TTurbine

FYI The 2010 GT3 rs factory alingment specs is exactly the same as the 997 GT2!!

texasviany

In my opinion, there's push in the car, so I've add 0.5 deg camber on the front. There's so much rear grip, I think it's a matter of first trying to "meet" that rear plant before reducing the rear if needed. I think as little as adding 0.5 degrees will be enough to get the fronts working, but if not, I'll click up to 1.0 and see if the temps tell me I've gone too far.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the feedback. Please let me know how it works out!

Karl

malmasri

Carrera GT: Do you mean + .05 camber?

savyboy

I wanted to wait until after my break-in three-day track workout for components to settle in before I brought the RS in for a corner balance and alignment. Which we did last week.

After track and before any adjustments I noticed RR was wearing on the inside. Upon checking we found it was way out of stock spec at -2.1.

Considering remaining tire wear, and after corner balance, we decided to try -1.8 all around. Carrera GT has a ton more experience than I do and it will be interesting to compare our approaches after more track time (3 days from now in my case).

997gt3north

i'm assuming he means adding -.5 camber to the front stock alignment to dial out the slight push

thus, "if" factory is set at -1 front camber, then we are talking about -1.5

my guess, 6 months from now after enough 2010gt3/rs are tracked, the standard combo track / street setup won't be that much different than mk1 setups - but a little

if we look at the 996 to 997mk1 to now 997mk2 specs that most people settle around, my observation would be this, 997mk1 needed less rear camber than 996 (i.e. 996 guys were at -2.5 combo street track, 997mk1 were at -2.2/-2.3 (they did something to the rear to glue it more + wider 12" rim) - thus if I had to bet the mk2 with a 325 rear tire + more rear wing = likely needs a touch less rear camber (-1.9/-2.1)

if we now have more rear grip, we need more front grip (stock is 245 is more + more track) but that is not dis-similar to 9" track wheels + shim setups that mk1 users are running so I will bet that front camber has to be -2.5 to make the car neutral

NJ-GT

for a lot of street use, street stock alignment.

for track use, whatever works with the 997.1 GT3 and GT3 RS (well documented already). Adjust balance with sway bars, they are adjustable.

Carrera GT

I mean plus minus ... ? ... : )

... "Adding negative" camber ... errr

Increasing negative ... um ... my give up ...

TRAKCAR

I think I will go with street allignment and add -1 degree camber front and rear, I figure to start out slowly on track.

What do you guys think of the allignent MKI GT3 VS MKIIRS??

On the 997GT3 I had the sway bars full soft at rear and middle at front because usually the rear tires are more worn, less grippe than the fronts. I figure I start out the same, softer front first if it pushes, or harder if not... and only go stiffer in th erear if full soft at front does not cure understeer...

Carrera GT

Right, well who knows, but that all sounds reasonable.

I think the front is much the same game (struts) so the -2.5 could be optimal with the given tires being an RA1 or a Hooter f'rinstance. On a Sport Cup or a Corsa, my first guess is -2.0.

The rear suspension geometry is very different from the 997.1. Well worth reading what Preuninger has to say -- I think this observation reveals the significant difference (and advancement) of the 997.2 RS:

"Crucially, the change in the roll axis [made possible by the control of the engine and transaxle mass by the dynamic engine mounts] has also geometrically added some weight to the car's front wheels, and it is this -- combined with the wider front track and wider front tires -- that makes the biggest difference to the feel of this car."

He goes on to write what I think is the "one-two" knock-out punch sequence for the RS and future Porsches such as the new Turbo and the (presumably) forthcoming GT2 and 918:

"...Preuninger is on record as saying that the human confidence factor was a big part of his team's research ..."

In my humble, their achievement is revolutionary for the 911. I have a suspicion that Porsche has surreptitiously given us the new 911 (the car for their next decade, some call it a 991 or 998) in the guise of the RS.

The Owner's Manual reads:

Front toe 0' +/- 2'
Rear toe +13' +/-2'
Front camber -1°30' +/- 5' (GT3) and -1°35' +/- 5' (GT3 RS)
Rear camber -1°30' +/- 5' (GT3) and -1°45' +/- 5' (GT3 RS)

I've not yet contemplated fully what to do with sways. I haven't even finished tinkering with front temperatures. I hope a smidgen of camber and some lower temps/pressures all round and it should be good. It's already better than any 911 of the current era that I've driven. A completely different league.

I have a day at Laguna on Friday. After that, I'll put in safety gear, which will warrant a corner balance and hence the opportunity to adjust the ride height. It's already remarkably low for a street 911. Once it's down on the suspension, I'll consider more front camber if warranted, but I'm guess the rest of the dial-in will be minor adjustments, temperatures (and driving control ...) Also, I'd rather go to 265's on the fronts than add more camber. I've done this on previous GT3's with great results. Solid rear toe arms is probably warranted, too.

TRAKCAR

OK, so it looks like just adding -1 degree in front might be all that is needed.
I look mostly for even tire wear..

Where is the sway bar set when you got the car? Is there anything in there in the manual? Sorry I don't have it handy..

997gt3north

- my only comment (repeat from above) is that any street driving a 325 rear tire on a 12" rim is going to quickly eat the inner part of the tire at any camber more than -2.0
- with that nice wing back there, i would prefer to set up the car with less rear camber so that it can rotate in the slower stuff but add a tiny bit more wing so that it is perfectly neutral in the high speed stuff + you will save tires and get slightly better braking
- given that the RS is now marketed differently than the gt3, I would think they set it up closer to neutral than the mk1 with less built in factory push - thus my bet is you will just need a little more front camber

TRAKCAR

Good points all...