PCCB to GT3 Cup steel rotors - bitter sweet conversion
#31
You are also not likely to ever get the green fad from street driving unless you street drive to bed them in
While I bit dangerous, (ie in which corner am I going to experience the green fad moment) you can bed them in on the track - get through those 2 to 3 dicey corners and you will be fine
I have the opposite experience than the above poster - they can be fine if not bedded in before hand
Also, in terms of cracking, etc - I have never removed a set of warn pads from the track that were not cracked / brutalized
The P50 Green Pads (on my 3rd set) have never green faded (to my knowledge) but they absolutely need a full lap to come up to temp and then will also cool down faster - ie if you do a pit drive through you have to give the pads at least 2 corners to be ready
In my opinion, P50 Green Pads at track temp are probably the best braking system outside F1 / Nascar etc - totally unfadeable, great feel, good initial bite - now only if we could get a real track orientated ABS system system
Paul
#32
Burning Brakes
I ran pccb for a full season often at THill and laguna which are fast heavy braking tracks
They don't work on the track unless you have the pmna green pads
But now that you are on steel you'll be fine, I haven't noticed any difference at the track with the heavier steel rotors.
They don't work on the track unless you have the pmna green pads
But now that you are on steel you'll be fine, I haven't noticed any difference at the track with the heavier steel rotors.
#33
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Thanks for sharing your experience with us.... it clearly takes a certain talent to do what you have done..I have had a simillar experience with mine on the 1st track day ever in it...break pedal down nothing happens..fortunately it was not DE...but open track so I kept driving relatively slow and breaking not as hard for several laps and I guess that must have been enough to seat the pads appropriately.. since then I had 5 track days and the breaks felt no differnt at the end of each session that at the begining ..xcpt that I wore the rear pads and had to replace them, with fronts still at half life.
Top notch post....
Top notch post....
In my experience the pads are fine (pccb stock pads) after green fad - that is the point.
You are also not likely to ever get the green fad from street driving unless you street drive to bed them in
While I bit dangerous, (ie in which corner am I going to experience the green fad moment) you can bed them in on the track - get through those 2 to 3 dicey corners and you will be fine
I have the opposite experience than the above poster - they can be fine if not bedded in before hand
Also, in terms of cracking, etc - I have never removed a set of warn pads from the track that were not cracked / brutalized
The P50 Green Pads (on my 3rd set) have never green faded (to my knowledge) but they absolutely need a full lap to come up to temp and then will also cool down faster - ie if you do a pit drive through you have to give the pads at least 2 corners to be ready
In my opinion, P50 Green Pads at track temp are probably the best braking system outside F1 / Nascar etc - totally unfadeable, great feel, good initial bite - now only if we could get a real track orientated ABS system system
Paul
You are also not likely to ever get the green fad from street driving unless you street drive to bed them in
While I bit dangerous, (ie in which corner am I going to experience the green fad moment) you can bed them in on the track - get through those 2 to 3 dicey corners and you will be fine
I have the opposite experience than the above poster - they can be fine if not bedded in before hand
Also, in terms of cracking, etc - I have never removed a set of warn pads from the track that were not cracked / brutalized
The P50 Green Pads (on my 3rd set) have never green faded (to my knowledge) but they absolutely need a full lap to come up to temp and then will also cool down faster - ie if you do a pit drive through you have to give the pads at least 2 corners to be ready
In my opinion, P50 Green Pads at track temp are probably the best braking system outside F1 / Nascar etc - totally unfadeable, great feel, good initial bite - now only if we could get a real track orientated ABS system system
Paul
I ran pccb for a full season often at THill and laguna which are fast heavy braking tracks
They don't work on the track unless you have the pmna green pads
But now that you are on steel you'll be fine, I haven't noticed any difference at the track with the heavier steel rotors.
They don't work on the track unless you have the pmna green pads
But now that you are on steel you'll be fine, I haven't noticed any difference at the track with the heavier steel rotors.
#34
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OK, it is official that PCCB/OEM pads sucks compare with Cup steel rotors with Pagid RS29. I knew the Cup steel rotors felt great at Laguna Seca but most of my PCCB/OEM pads track time were at Thunderhill. I finally had a chance to try out the Cup rotors at Thunderhill two days ago and let me tell you this, they totally ROCK!! I can accelerate all the way to the end of the brake zone before turn 10, 14 and 1 and slam on the brake with total confidence unlike the OMG experience with PCCB/OEM pads where I have to ride on the brakes way before the brake zone to prime them.
Now the only question left to answer is how well does the PCCB perform with proper track pads like the Pagid P50 and RS29 compare with Cup steel rotors? That will be my next project
Here is a video of the Thunderhill brake test day
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1URJcmYui9I
Now the only question left to answer is how well does the PCCB perform with proper track pads like the Pagid P50 and RS29 compare with Cup steel rotors? That will be my next project
Here is a video of the Thunderhill brake test day
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1URJcmYui9I
#35
Burning Brakes
Glad the brakes are working well for you! Wish I could have come to THill and have Turbo mock me on the PA too ;-)
Some suggestions based on your video:
- turn 9, well you already know...
- turn 10, you can carry way more speed there. It's a fast turn
- less brake in to 14 will give you more speed
- get on the gas earlier in 15
- turn 1 use the whole trak, you can take this faster
Try the green pads with pccb, they are pretty good
Some suggestions based on your video:
- turn 9, well you already know...
- turn 10, you can carry way more speed there. It's a fast turn
- less brake in to 14 will give you more speed
- get on the gas earlier in 15
- turn 1 use the whole trak, you can take this faster
Try the green pads with pccb, they are pretty good
#37
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Glad the brakes are working well for you! Wish I could have come to THill and have Turbo mock me on the PA too ;-)
Some suggestions based on your video:
- turn 9, well you already know...
- turn 10, you can carry way more speed there. It's a fast turn
- less brake in to 14 will give you more speed
- get on the gas earlier in 15
- turn 1 use the whole trak, you can take this faster
Try the green pads with pccb, they are pretty good
Some suggestions based on your video:
- turn 9, well you already know...
- turn 10, you can carry way more speed there. It's a fast turn
- less brake in to 14 will give you more speed
- get on the gas earlier in 15
- turn 1 use the whole trak, you can take this faster
Try the green pads with pccb, they are pretty good
Thanks for the suggestion. Will carry more speed when weather is weather. Tried RS29 pads with PCCB and works great! Green pads are more aggressive on PCCB and cost alot more than RS29
Glad you find it informative
#40
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I am curious why the .1 steel rotors would not fit the rears?
#42
Great posts all, special thanks to Mikymu. So the best solution for those with PCCB's for track use is to use the stock rotors with RS29 pads or PMN green pads? Since the 2010 GT3 come with pretty good steel OEM setups anyone investigated the possibility of just swapping the rotors (new 2010 GT3 steel rotors) for the PCCB rotors at all 4 wheels?
#43
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Great posts all, special thanks to Mikymu. So the best solution for those with PCCB's for track use is to use the stock rotors with RS29 pads or PMN green pads? Since the 2010 GT3 come with pretty good steel OEM setups anyone investigated the possibility of just swapping the rotors (new 2010 GT3 steel rotors) for the PCCB rotors at all 4 wheels?
has matching 380mm fronts, I wonder if the steels are now interchangable?
minimally it may be possible to take the steel rotors (if they are the same thickness) and attach them to the PCCB hats (assuming they are compatible)
and then mount them on the PCCB calipers ... hopefully they would not
encounter the same problems that the OP encountered or require the smaller
anulus pads for the brembo's
I wonder if someone with a '10 steel & PCCB could measure the rotor thickess?
Also, do the rear steels on the '10 have floating/detachable hats?
#44
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Scratch RS29 off the list for PCCB. They are garbage and worst than OEM pads for PCCB. I was over shooting the brake zone yesterday at Laguna and have to prime the brakes much like OEM pads. Over heat super fast and no modulation what so ever. On and off and dangerous going into a turn. I am accepting $900 donation for a set of Pagid P50 green pads ..... Back to steel rotors
#45
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Scratch RS29 off the list for PCCB. They are garbage and worst than OEM pads for PCCB. I was over shooting the brake zone yesterday at Laguna and have to prime the brakes much like OEM pads. Over heat super fast and no modulation what so ever. On and off and dangerous going into a turn. I am accepting $900 donation for a set of Pagid P50 green pads ..... Back to steel rotors
Did you bed in the RS29 on the PCCB? It seems that you missed such important step, based on what you experienced. It takes a good 40 minutes to be able to bed the pads with PCCB, and about 10 minutes to do the same with iron rotors.
RS19 and RS29 are the only pads I used in the GT3 and GT3 RS for around 6 years.
Moreover, my Scuderia (standard with CCB) is using F430 Challenge brake pads (Challenge is standard with CCB), the rear pads are made by Pagid, and stamped: RS19.