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PCCB to GT3 Cup steel rotors - bitter sweet conversion

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Old 11-22-2009, 10:16 AM
  #31  
997gt3north
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Originally Posted by Tim Kay
Say you do have ‘green fade’ on a set of pads less than 2000 miles street, are the pads ruined for all intense track purposes or can they ‘come back’ as replied by sws1 above?

Green fade does not affect the rotor does it?
In my experience the pads are fine (pccb stock pads) after green fad - that is the point.

You are also not likely to ever get the green fad from street driving unless you street drive to bed them in

While I bit dangerous, (ie in which corner am I going to experience the green fad moment) you can bed them in on the track - get through those 2 to 3 dicey corners and you will be fine

I have the opposite experience than the above poster - they can be fine if not bedded in before hand

Also, in terms of cracking, etc - I have never removed a set of warn pads from the track that were not cracked / brutalized

The P50 Green Pads (on my 3rd set) have never green faded (to my knowledge) but they absolutely need a full lap to come up to temp and then will also cool down faster - ie if you do a pit drive through you have to give the pads at least 2 corners to be ready


In my opinion, P50 Green Pads at track temp are probably the best braking system outside F1 / Nascar etc - totally unfadeable, great feel, good initial bite - now only if we could get a real track orientated ABS system system

Paul
Old 11-22-2009, 04:43 PM
  #32  
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I ran pccb for a full season often at THill and laguna which are fast heavy braking tracks

They don't work on the track unless you have the pmna green pads

But now that you are on steel you'll be fine, I haven't noticed any difference at the track with the heavier steel rotors.
Old 11-23-2009, 03:46 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by malmasri
Thanks for sharing your experience with us.... it clearly takes a certain talent to do what you have done..I have had a simillar experience with mine on the 1st track day ever in it...break pedal down nothing happens..fortunately it was not DE...but open track so I kept driving relatively slow and breaking not as hard for several laps and I guess that must have been enough to seat the pads appropriately.. since then I had 5 track days and the breaks felt no differnt at the end of each session that at the begining ..xcpt that I wore the rear pads and had to replace them, with fronts still at half life.
Top notch post....
Gald you find it useful. I will try couple pad combo on my PCCB next year

Originally Posted by 997gt3north
In my experience the pads are fine (pccb stock pads) after green fad - that is the point.

You are also not likely to ever get the green fad from street driving unless you street drive to bed them in

While I bit dangerous, (ie in which corner am I going to experience the green fad moment) you can bed them in on the track - get through those 2 to 3 dicey corners and you will be fine

I have the opposite experience than the above poster - they can be fine if not bedded in before hand

Also, in terms of cracking, etc - I have never removed a set of warn pads from the track that were not cracked / brutalized

The P50 Green Pads (on my 3rd set) have never green faded (to my knowledge) but they absolutely need a full lap to come up to temp and then will also cool down faster - ie if you do a pit drive through you have to give the pads at least 2 corners to be ready


In my opinion, P50 Green Pads at track temp are probably the best braking system outside F1 / Nascar etc - totally unfadeable, great feel, good initial bite - now only if we could get a real track orientated ABS system system

Paul
Paul, the reason I did not go with the P50 green pads was the horrible cold bite. I am sure it does it's job well on the track once warm up. I like ot have a pad that works both cold and hot. Someone on the forum here even use the Pagid R29 on the PCCB for two years without excessive wear issue .... I am tempted to try it out

Originally Posted by Backmarker
I ran pccb for a full season often at THill and laguna which are fast heavy braking tracks

They don't work on the track unless you have the pmna green pads

But now that you are on steel you'll be fine, I haven't noticed any difference at the track with the heavier steel rotors.
Yes, the steel Cup rotors did it's job and it was great to try it out this past Saturday at Infineon. I started to brake early like how I would do with my PCCB and I almost came to a complete stop at turn 7 and 11 lol. They are so much better and inspire great confidence. Too bad the track way cold and slippery so I took it easy the whole day. One of the 6 GT3 crash into the wall at turn 7 with very bad damage. That is why I don't like Infineon now - too many walls. It was fine when I was relatively slow two years ago but too risky at my current speed
Old 02-08-2010, 02:29 AM
  #34  
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OK, it is official that PCCB/OEM pads sucks compare with Cup steel rotors with Pagid RS29. I knew the Cup steel rotors felt great at Laguna Seca but most of my PCCB/OEM pads track time were at Thunderhill. I finally had a chance to try out the Cup rotors at Thunderhill two days ago and let me tell you this, they totally ROCK!! I can accelerate all the way to the end of the brake zone before turn 10, 14 and 1 and slam on the brake with total confidence unlike the OMG experience with PCCB/OEM pads where I have to ride on the brakes way before the brake zone to prime them.

Now the only question left to answer is how well does the PCCB perform with proper track pads like the Pagid P50 and RS29 compare with Cup steel rotors? That will be my next project

Here is a video of the Thunderhill brake test day

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1URJcmYui9I
Old 02-09-2010, 07:07 PM
  #35  
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Glad the brakes are working well for you! Wish I could have come to THill and have Turbo mock me on the PA too ;-)

Some suggestions based on your video:
- turn 9, well you already know...
- turn 10, you can carry way more speed there. It's a fast turn
- less brake in to 14 will give you more speed
- get on the gas earlier in 15
- turn 1 use the whole trak, you can take this faster

Try the green pads with pccb, they are pretty good
Old 02-23-2010, 12:59 PM
  #36  
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Superb post from the OP, as well as the comments on green fade.

Thanks for a very insightful and interesting read.
Old 02-23-2010, 05:34 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Backmarker
Glad the brakes are working well for you! Wish I could have come to THill and have Turbo mock me on the PA too ;-)

Some suggestions based on your video:
- turn 9, well you already know...
- turn 10, you can carry way more speed there. It's a fast turn
- less brake in to 14 will give you more speed
- get on the gas earlier in 15
- turn 1 use the whole trak, you can take this faster

Try the green pads with pccb, they are pretty good
LOL. Turbo was all bundle up. It was mighty cold.

Thanks for the suggestion. Will carry more speed when weather is weather. Tried RS29 pads with PCCB and works great! Green pads are more aggressive on PCCB and cost alot more than RS29

Originally Posted by E4VLL
Superb post from the OP, as well as the comments on green fade.

Thanks for a very insightful and interesting read.
Glad you find it informative
Old 02-23-2010, 05:46 PM
  #38  
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The 2010 PCCB Pagid Greens shipment from PMNA just arrived....
Old 02-23-2010, 05:56 PM
  #39  
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Wow, thank you
Old 02-23-2010, 06:15 PM
  #40  
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I am curious why the .1 steel rotors would not fit the rears?
Old 02-23-2010, 06:38 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
I am curious why the .1 steel rotors would not fit the rears?
handbrake, offset, thickness, too many differences
Old 02-24-2010, 11:29 AM
  #42  
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Great posts all, special thanks to Mikymu. So the best solution for those with PCCB's for track use is to use the stock rotors with RS29 pads or PMN green pads? Since the 2010 GT3 come with pretty good steel OEM setups anyone investigated the possibility of just swapping the rotors (new 2010 GT3 steel rotors) for the PCCB rotors at all 4 wheels?
Old 02-24-2010, 11:37 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by tshih
Great posts all, special thanks to Mikymu. So the best solution for those with PCCB's for track use is to use the stock rotors with RS29 pads or PMN green pads? Since the 2010 GT3 come with pretty good steel OEM setups anyone investigated the possibility of just swapping the rotors (new 2010 GT3 steel rotors) for the PCCB rotors at all 4 wheels?
funny you should ask this question, I was wondering as well, since the '10 now
has matching 380mm fronts, I wonder if the steels are now interchangable?

minimally it may be possible to take the steel rotors (if they are the same thickness) and attach them to the PCCB hats (assuming they are compatible)
and then mount them on the PCCB calipers ... hopefully they would not
encounter the same problems that the OP encountered or require the smaller
anulus pads for the brembo's

I wonder if someone with a '10 steel & PCCB could measure the rotor thickess?

Also, do the rear steels on the '10 have floating/detachable hats?
Old 02-26-2010, 03:58 PM
  #44  
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Scratch RS29 off the list for PCCB. They are garbage and worst than OEM pads for PCCB. I was over shooting the brake zone yesterday at Laguna and have to prime the brakes much like OEM pads. Over heat super fast and no modulation what so ever. On and off and dangerous going into a turn. I am accepting $900 donation for a set of Pagid P50 green pads ..... Back to steel rotors
Old 02-26-2010, 04:26 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by mikymu
Scratch RS29 off the list for PCCB. They are garbage and worst than OEM pads for PCCB. I was over shooting the brake zone yesterday at Laguna and have to prime the brakes much like OEM pads. Over heat super fast and no modulation what so ever. On and off and dangerous going into a turn. I am accepting $900 donation for a set of Pagid P50 green pads ..... Back to steel rotors
Interesting, I ran both RS19 and RS29 with PCCB in 996 and 997 GT3. Once in a while I would get on ice mode, but learned to stay away from it by braking smoothly and avoiding braking over bumps (ice mode is invoked by the ABS), the ice mode happens with PCCB and iron rotors.

Did you bed in the RS29 on the PCCB? It seems that you missed such important step, based on what you experienced. It takes a good 40 minutes to be able to bed the pads with PCCB, and about 10 minutes to do the same with iron rotors.

RS19 and RS29 are the only pads I used in the GT3 and GT3 RS for around 6 years.

Moreover, my Scuderia (standard with CCB) is using F430 Challenge brake pads (Challenge is standard with CCB), the rear pads are made by Pagid, and stamped: RS19.


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