centerlock update
02-26-2009, 06:49 PM
#16
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I wish I had taken a picture of the nut but I didn't. The rep, who was from PCNA, not the dealership, clearly stated that the rig was different from the cup car setup, would not require a lot of force, and 100 ft/lbs would suffice. Was he just full of it? I don't know.
02-26-2009, 08:22 PM
#19
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Wish someone had looked at the nut....
02-26-2009, 10:11 PM
#21
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Any new owners of the GT3 997.2 will need to buy xtra center lock$ for track...... or convert to 5 lug....
this is the main issue i guess......
this is the main issue i guess......
02-28-2009, 03:43 PM
#24
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I saw it up close and personal. Should have taken a pic with my cell phone. 
Anyway, the face of the nut is a rounded taper, could be identical to the CGT nut. The nut only needs 100 ftlbs because there is a splined locking mechanism that prevents it from turning. And IIRC it said 140 Nm right on the nut. I saw no reason why it would not be track-worthy.
Here is the essence of it. The socket that you take it off with has a post in the middle of it. When you push it onto the nut, the post sticks through and depresses the splined shaft in the center of the hub flange, which allows the nut to be turned. Once you tighten it and take the socket off, the splined shaft pops back out into the nut, locking against the splines in the nut. Now it can no longer turn. You only need just so much torque to hold the wheel in place. The additional torque for CGT and cup car nuts are to prevent them from loosening.
Anyway, the face of the nut is a rounded taper, could be identical to the CGT nut. The nut only needs 100 ftlbs because there is a splined locking mechanism that prevents it from turning. And IIRC it said 140 Nm right on the nut. I saw no reason why it would not be track-worthy.
Here is the essence of it. The socket that you take it off with has a post in the middle of it. When you push it onto the nut, the post sticks through and depresses the splined shaft in the center of the hub flange, which allows the nut to be turned. Once you tighten it and take the socket off, the splined shaft pops back out into the nut, locking against the splines in the nut. Now it can no longer turn. You only need just so much torque to hold the wheel in place. The additional torque for CGT and cup car nuts are to prevent them from loosening.
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Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
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Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
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1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
Larry Herman
2016 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
2018 Tesla Model 3 - Electricity can be fun!
Retired Club Racer & National PCA Instructor
Past Flames:
1994 RS America Club Racer
2004 GT3 Track Car
1984 911 Carrera Club Racer
1974 914/4 2.0 Track Car
CLICK HERE to see some of my ancient racing videos.
02-28-2009, 03:49 PM
#25
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I saw it up close and personal. Should have taken a pic with my cell phone.
Anyway, the face of the nut is a rounded taper, could be identical to the CGT nut. The nut only needs 100 ftlbs because there is a splined locking mechanism that prevents it from turning. And IIRC it said 140 Nm right on the nut. I saw no reason why it would not be track-worthy.
Here is the essence of it. The socket that you take it off with has a post in the middle of it. When you push it onto the nut, the post sticks through and depresses the splined shaft in the center of the hub flange, which allows the nut to be turned. Once you tighten it and take the socket off, the splined shaft pops back out into the nut, locking against the splines in the nut. Now it can no longer turn. You only need just so much torque to hold the wheel in place. The additional torque for CGT and cup car nuts are to prevent them from loosening.
Anyway, the face of the nut is a rounded taper, could be identical to the CGT nut. The nut only needs 100 ftlbs because there is a splined locking mechanism that prevents it from turning. And IIRC it said 140 Nm right on the nut. I saw no reason why it would not be track-worthy.
Here is the essence of it. The socket that you take it off with has a post in the middle of it. When you push it onto the nut, the post sticks through and depresses the splined shaft in the center of the hub flange, which allows the nut to be turned. Once you tighten it and take the socket off, the splined shaft pops back out into the nut, locking against the splines in the nut. Now it can no longer turn. You only need just so much torque to hold the wheel in place. The additional torque for CGT and cup car nuts are to prevent them from loosening.
02-28-2009, 03:53 PM
#26
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I saw it up close and personal. Should have taken a pic with my cell phone.
Anyway, the face of the nut is a rounded taper, could be identical to the CGT nut. The nut only needs 100 ftlbs because there is a splined locking mechanism that prevents it from turning. And IIRC it said 140 Nm right on the nut. I saw no reason why it would not be track-worthy.
Here is the essence of it. The socket that you take it off with has a post in the middle of it. When you push it onto the nut, the post sticks through and depresses the splined shaft in the center of the hub flange, which allows the nut to be turned. Once you tighten it and take the socket off, the splined shaft pops back out into the nut, locking against the splines in the nut. Now it can no longer turn. You only need just so much torque to hold the wheel in place. The additional torque for CGT and cup car nuts are to prevent them from loosening.
Anyway, the face of the nut is a rounded taper, could be identical to the CGT nut. The nut only needs 100 ftlbs because there is a splined locking mechanism that prevents it from turning. And IIRC it said 140 Nm right on the nut. I saw no reason why it would not be track-worthy.
Here is the essence of it. The socket that you take it off with has a post in the middle of it. When you push it onto the nut, the post sticks through and depresses the splined shaft in the center of the hub flange, which allows the nut to be turned. Once you tighten it and take the socket off, the splined shaft pops back out into the nut, locking against the splines in the nut. Now it can no longer turn. You only need just so much torque to hold the wheel in place. The additional torque for CGT and cup car nuts are to prevent them from loosening.
Did the rep happen say whether the socket tool was provided as p/o the OEM fitment (ie, with the car)?
02-28-2009, 03:58 PM
#27
I guess the tool/socket has to be supplied with the car -- even if they insist upon no spare wheel. Also, there's no mention of a security device. I guess it's "security by obscurity" although these days, stealing $1500+ worth of tires is probably as lucrative as stealing the wheels.
i could have sworn the Carrera GT mechanism has a radial locking pin (that the socket depresses when it's on the nut.)
i could have sworn the Carrera GT mechanism has a radial locking pin (that the socket depresses when it's on the nut.)
02-28-2009, 04:10 PM
#28
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It was going to be in the tool kit with each car.
02-28-2009, 05:05 PM
#30