prysma997gt3

Folks,

Your suggestion please: Since the car was lowered and corner balanced, I noticed the back “dances” a bit. Reading one of the GMG articles, they mentioned a few small mods (part replacements) they do to plant the back, since, as they say on the magazine, the geometry changes (for the worse I take) once you lower the car.

My local pro shop agrees completely and they change the motor mounts to a firmer rubber (not metal), the dog bones and add drop links…. (i hope I have these right...)

If you have done these mods, I’d appreciate if you could comment on the differences you felt afterwards. Did it resolve the “issue”? Any change in the ride quality at all?

This forum is great.

Thanks!!!

mooty

i dont have those mods. my car both 6 and 7 gt3 do not have bump steer issues. my wild guess is you lowered your car too much. these are not cup cars. you cannot hope to get to those ride height.

lower is NOT always better.
stiffer is NOT always better.
i prefer the softest springs i can get away with, for example.

that said, once you have the proper geometry reset using dogbones, longer drop linx, and so forth, a race shop should be able to "bump steer" the car and get it to behave right.

Thomas Crown

I agree. I just see too many driver/students in DE that "lowest" is the best but ignore the geometry of the car. I also agree stiffer is NOT always better and I was successful with softer springs that majority of "internet" crowd praised. This goes same for shock settings.

I respectfully suggest to my students "lets spend more time and adopt to improve our individual driving than "mod" the car endlessly" (not particularly directed to original post"

997gt3north

I agree with both statements above

Get a really good alignment get the correct tire pressures with good rubber and the car is capable of tremendous things if the driver is up to it

I have not noticed the need yet for any suspension components after the car was aligned properly for my style and use - this basically ment more front camber, less rear camber than called for plus some front toe out - the car was also corner balanced but only a tiny adjustment was required

After that it is all about seat time and getting your right foot to the floor as soon as possibly (and this is really a mental game of a few feet or inches at a time and then believing you can do it)

Paul

C.J. Ichiban

out of the box, my car had a bit less turn-in and a bit too much body roll...so I installed the gmg stuff and had the car lowered 10mm which isn't much- some guys around me have dropped theirs 15-20 which is extreme to say the least. I also use different geometry settings than most of the crowd on here because just as lower or stiffer isn't always best- too much camber on a road car isn't ideal either.

if the car dances too much, you might also have the toe settings a bit skewed. I don't think motor mounts make the rear end dance or skip...


once you install harder suspension components, the ride softness suffers on the street- especially if you press the sport pasm button. it's not bad in soft mode on decent roads, however.

TT Surgeon

CJ, different car, but I'm getting ready to have farnbaacher-loles do the gmg sways/bones/springs on my TT. Did you notice a big difference on the track?
TIA
Chris
(btw, you should've took my car out yesterday, weather was prime!)

C.J. Ichiban

huge difference. much more balance, neutrality when I need it.

prysma997gt3

Hey folks,

thank for the replies. For me, I did not request anyting in particular - still learning and trying different things. We started with a mild setup, then went to a very agressive setup (when we were trying the 335 R6s), and finally I asked them to dial everything back since I needed to take a breather from the track for a few months. But they did not bring the car "up". I did ask why and they said it'd require corner balancing the car again.

When we went to the agressive setup, the car was lowered quite a lot. Taking what some of you are saying, it might be worthwhile to have a shop take a fresh look at all the settings, probably raise and re-balance the car, before going for extra components. Right now, everything is stock.

Paul, which shop did you go to?

THank for the help folks.

Luiz

Kevinlpl

Luiz,

My personal experience was I needed to install the Porsche Motorsport rear toe Links. I was checking my alignment before and after each Track event and the rear toe was changing significantly. BTW the rear was way off the first time I checked it at 1000 miles with no track time. Since installing the P Motorsport Toe links my rear alignment has not changed in Three track days, and I perceive no change in ride quality. The dog bones and other rear link parts may be added in the future, but currently I do not feel a need to address this.

You can raise your car yourself if you have the coil over spring tools. My car was corner balanced at stock height. I raise my car about 15mm for around town, and then lower it back to stock height for the track, and my corner balance has been verified not to change. Raising the ride height for the street (just a small 15mm) has made it a LOT easier to keep the nose from scraping on the streets here in SLO.

The rear dancing could come from so many variables. This is my first P car and I have noticed this car is so much more sensitive to all the variables like tire pressure, track temp, my driving style, etc than say my M3 was. You should take notes each time you head out and gradually you will put together the formula that works best for you. I have made very small adjustments each time I go out and only make one change at a time so I can note its effects.

As it has been mentioned already, and I whole heartedly agree, working on the driver is most important. i have seen what pro drivers can do with a bone stock GT3 and I am amazed! Lots more coaching and instruction for me to come! Along this note I find it interesting that our local Professional athlete CJ, who gets professional coaching for his profession daily, has also used lots of professional coaching for this sport.

Cheers,

the Shoe

997gt3north

When I lived in NJ I went to Stable Energies - they installed my half cage and then did the alignment with the shims that the dealer didn't know about. Now that I've moved to Toronto I use GTek.

My experience has taught me that I would only take the car to a shop that track preps porsches and specifically has done other gt3s


The other thing that I have learned as many on this board have also found is that there are some suttle differences between the 996 and 997 gt3s - differences that not too many shops would yet have a good handle on but my 2 cents is that for a variety of reasons the 997 needs a little more front and a little less rear camber than the 996gt3 in order to get a similarly performing car

Paul