Those with LWFW Please Read
04-15-2008, 06:59 PM
#31
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Thanks for the great information in this thread. I am picking my car up late this week with a new LWFW, RMS and Pulley. Off to homestead this weekend!
04-15-2008, 07:20 PM
#32
i reused the pressure plate but purchased a new friction disk as i wanted to mate a new friction disk to the new lwfw and the part is so cheap anyway
this will save you a few hundred dollars for the pressure plate
i have 23,000kms on my car and around 7,000kms with the lwfw - this also includes 6 hardcore trackdays on the lwfw
knock wood, so far so good - no issues
paul
04-21-2008, 08:08 PM
#34
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I am late to this discussion, but thought this would be of interest to those who have or are considering the conversion to a LWFW.
On Sunday I was on the track at Homestead-Miami with NASA. A random event put GT3CAR in the passenger seat. All was going smoothly when coming out of turn 8 (hairpin) I lost power steering, and the water temp and engine temp went very high. A battery warning light went on and then a warning light indicating high unsafe engine temp went on. I pulled into the pits (1/4 mile) and turned the engine off. Restarted the engine without a problem and drove out of pit lane to where examination showed the crankshaft belt was off the pulley. The car was trailered to the dealer where examination showed that the bolt on the crankshaft pulley had backed out badly damaging the threads on the bolt and to a lesser extent the female threads on the crankshaft. A new bolt could not be threaded back into the crankshaft. The metal around the end of the crankshaft was bluish in color indicating that it had been exposed to very high temperature. It is not clear if there is damage to any parts or systems in proximity to the crankshaft.
The dealer has contacted Porsche N.A., but there has been no determination yet as to the potential solution to the problem. The three choices appear to be:
1- Tap the female connection on the crankshaft and replace the pulley.
2- Replace the crankshaft
3- Replace the engine
All work to convert to the LWFW was done by the dealer and is covered by the factory warranty. I will post information as it becomes available. The dealer indicated that they have seen only one other case of the bolt backing out. There was no warning of the event. The tech working on the car says that there is no instruction by Porsche to use Locktite on the bolt or to use a longer bolt on the GT3. There is a longer bolt on the RS because the pulley is aluminum which compresses and expands and must be tightened more securely.
On Sunday I was on the track at Homestead-Miami with NASA. A random event put GT3CAR in the passenger seat. All was going smoothly when coming out of turn 8 (hairpin) I lost power steering, and the water temp and engine temp went very high. A battery warning light went on and then a warning light indicating high unsafe engine temp went on. I pulled into the pits (1/4 mile) and turned the engine off. Restarted the engine without a problem and drove out of pit lane to where examination showed the crankshaft belt was off the pulley. The car was trailered to the dealer where examination showed that the bolt on the crankshaft pulley had backed out badly damaging the threads on the bolt and to a lesser extent the female threads on the crankshaft. A new bolt could not be threaded back into the crankshaft. The metal around the end of the crankshaft was bluish in color indicating that it had been exposed to very high temperature. It is not clear if there is damage to any parts or systems in proximity to the crankshaft.
The dealer has contacted Porsche N.A., but there has been no determination yet as to the potential solution to the problem. The three choices appear to be:
1- Tap the female connection on the crankshaft and replace the pulley.
2- Replace the crankshaft
3- Replace the engine
All work to convert to the LWFW was done by the dealer and is covered by the factory warranty. I will post information as it becomes available. The dealer indicated that they have seen only one other case of the bolt backing out. There was no warning of the event. The tech working on the car says that there is no instruction by Porsche to use Locktite on the bolt or to use a longer bolt on the GT3. There is a longer bolt on the RS because the pulley is aluminum which compresses and expands and must be tightened more securely.
Last edited by normank; 04-21-2008 at 08:35 PM. Reason: spelling
04-21-2008, 08:42 PM
#35
Any theories why the LWFW is causing this problem?
Does it have something to do with the speed which the new LWFW set-up gains/drops rpm? Could the quicker crankshaft deceleration shock and loosen the bolt? i.e. - the crank slows quickly while the pulley(s) wants to keep turning, possibly in the direction that loosens the bolt?
Make any sense?
Does it have something to do with the speed which the new LWFW set-up gains/drops rpm? Could the quicker crankshaft deceleration shock and loosen the bolt? i.e. - the crank slows quickly while the pulley(s) wants to keep turning, possibly in the direction that loosens the bolt?
Make any sense?
04-21-2008, 09:44 PM
#36
Needs to Get a Life
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I am late to this discussion, but thought this would be of interest to those who have or are considering the conversion to a LWFW.
On Sunday I was on the track at Homestead-Miami with NASA. A random event put GT3CAR in the passenger seat. All was going smoothly when coming out of turn 8 (hairpin) I lost power steering, and the water temp and engine temp went very high. A battery warning light went on and then a warning light indicating high unsafe engine temp went on. I pulled into the pits (1/4 mile) and turned the engine off. Restarted the engine without a problem and drove out of pit lane to where examination showed the crankshaft belt was off the pulley. The car was trailered to the dealer where examination showed that the bolt on the crankshaft pulley had backed out badly damaging the threads on the bolt and to a lesser extent the female threads on the crankshaft. A new bolt could not be threaded back into the crankshaft. The metal around the end of the crankshaft was bluish in color indicating that it had been exposed to very high temperature. It is not clear if there is damage to any parts or systems in proximity to the crankshaft.
The dealer has contacted Porsche N.A., but there has been no determination yet as to the potential solution to the problem. The three choices appear to be:
1- Tap the female connection on the crankshaft and replace the pulley.
2- Replace the crankshaft
3- Replace the engine
All work to convert to the LWFW was done by the dealer and is covered by the factory warranty. I will post information as it becomes available. The dealer indicated that they have seen only one other case of the bolt backing out. There was no warning of the event. The tech working on the car says that there is no instruction by Porsche to use Locktite on the bolt or to use a longer bolt on the GT3. There is a longer bolt on the RS because the pulley is aluminum which compresses and expands and must be tightened more securely.
On Sunday I was on the track at Homestead-Miami with NASA. A random event put GT3CAR in the passenger seat. All was going smoothly when coming out of turn 8 (hairpin) I lost power steering, and the water temp and engine temp went very high. A battery warning light went on and then a warning light indicating high unsafe engine temp went on. I pulled into the pits (1/4 mile) and turned the engine off. Restarted the engine without a problem and drove out of pit lane to where examination showed the crankshaft belt was off the pulley. The car was trailered to the dealer where examination showed that the bolt on the crankshaft pulley had backed out badly damaging the threads on the bolt and to a lesser extent the female threads on the crankshaft. A new bolt could not be threaded back into the crankshaft. The metal around the end of the crankshaft was bluish in color indicating that it had been exposed to very high temperature. It is not clear if there is damage to any parts or systems in proximity to the crankshaft.
The dealer has contacted Porsche N.A., but there has been no determination yet as to the potential solution to the problem. The three choices appear to be:
1- Tap the female connection on the crankshaft and replace the pulley.
2- Replace the crankshaft
3- Replace the engine
All work to convert to the LWFW was done by the dealer and is covered by the factory warranty. I will post information as it becomes available. The dealer indicated that they have seen only one other case of the bolt backing out. There was no warning of the event. The tech working on the car says that there is no instruction by Porsche to use Locktite on the bolt or to use a longer bolt on the GT3. There is a longer bolt on the RS because the pulley is aluminum which compresses and expands and must be tightened more securely.
Lindsey
04-22-2008, 10:38 AM
#38
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Lindsey,
It was nice meeting you and I very much appreciate your offer of the new pulley. It's too bad that didn't work. I am still waiting for word from Porsche, N.A. about the solution. I will look forward to seeing you at another track event.
Norman
It was nice meeting you and I very much appreciate your offer of the new pulley. It's too bad that didn't work. I am still waiting for word from Porsche, N.A. about the solution. I will look forward to seeing you at another track event.
Norman
04-23-2008, 02:02 AM
#39
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Looks like Caymans are having this problem too:
http://www.caymanclub.net/cayman-cha...too-often.html
http://www.caymanclub.net/cayman-cha...too-often.html
04-24-2008, 05:44 PM
#41
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I picked up my car today after the following work was performed under warranty:
Cleaned slightly damaged threads of crank and installed new pulley/pin/bolt/shim and belt. Torqued pulley bolt to 186 Ft. Lbs. and ran vehicle with RPM changes on lift and rechecked torqued bolt. Road tested and rechecked torqued bolt. Cleared all fault memory. Vehicle running to manufacturer's spec.
On the drive home all seemed fine. The real test will be this weekend at Homestead. Standby for the final report.
I think this speaks well of Champion and Porsche, N.A. and I can not imagine doing this upgrade anywhere that would not guarantee the warranty would remain valid.
Cleaned slightly damaged threads of crank and installed new pulley/pin/bolt/shim and belt. Torqued pulley bolt to 186 Ft. Lbs. and ran vehicle with RPM changes on lift and rechecked torqued bolt. Road tested and rechecked torqued bolt. Cleared all fault memory. Vehicle running to manufacturer's spec.
On the drive home all seemed fine. The real test will be this weekend at Homestead. Standby for the final report.
I think this speaks well of Champion and Porsche, N.A. and I can not imagine doing this upgrade anywhere that would not guarantee the warranty would remain valid.
04-24-2008, 06:09 PM
#42
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what is the same is the pressure plate - while it is possible it has a different part number, it is the same part i believe
i reused the pressure plate but purchased a new friction disk as i wanted to mate a new friction disk to the new lwfw and the part is so cheap anyway
this will save you a few hundred dollars for the pressure plate
i have 23,000kms on my car and around 7,000kms with the lwfw - this also includes 6 hardcore trackdays on the lwfw
knock wood, so far so good - no issues
paul
i reused the pressure plate but purchased a new friction disk as i wanted to mate a new friction disk to the new lwfw and the part is so cheap anyway
this will save you a few hundred dollars for the pressure plate
i have 23,000kms on my car and around 7,000kms with the lwfw - this also includes 6 hardcore trackdays on the lwfw
knock wood, so far so good - no issues
paul
!PS I need to give you a ring shortly to show you something "neat"
