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Hoosier R6 Tire life

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Old 04-22-2008, 12:10 AM
  #61  
multi21
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Originally Posted by Ed Newman
Anyone ever try Nitto NT-01's shaved down? The BMWs seem to go pretty fast on them.
Ed I LOVE these tires. My friends who club race with BMW gave me a heads up about these tires 2 years ago and I'm going back to them after trying the R888 and MPSC. No need to shave them as they are already 6/32 out of the box.
Old 04-22-2008, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Newman
Yeah, she does pretty good for an old C2. I am getting tire temps in the 210-220 range so I am pushing them hard.
What pressures are you ending up with at those tire temps?
Old 04-22-2008, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mooty
so basically you get one weekend of super stick, then you start gambling on how good you can counter steer.
Interesting, I just bought used set (from a race team) and will be trying them this weekend at Homestead. First time with R6s. Plenty of "thread" left but have no idea of how many sessions they have on them.
Old 04-24-2008, 09:32 AM
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i just picked up one of my older sets of hoosiers.
how do you tell which is left and which is right?
does it matter?
something about a serial number? a quick response would be really appreciated

taking them out shortly!
Old 04-24-2008, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by yss
i just picked up one of my older sets of hoosiers.
how do you tell which is left and which is right?
does it matter?
something about a serial number? a quick response would be really appreciated

taking them out shortly!
they are not left/right specific.
Old 04-24-2008, 07:35 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Flying Finn
Interesting, I just bought used set (from a race team) and will be trying them this weekend at Homestead. First time with R6s. Plenty of "thread" left but have no idea of how many sessions they have on them.
first 8 HC is very amazing.
after that, you see a gradual fall off.
after 12 HC the fall off curve steepens
at some point, maybe 20HC, you will find the car slides so much it's no longer fun.

i was following a very good GT3 driver, 3 seconds faster than me on just about every track. when his tires were 20HC, it was hilarious following him. he goes in too deep, then tire wont slow down when he brakes, then he understeers so much like he's aiming for the tirewall, then goes a tad sideways as he finally makes the turn (he has full control of his car, he is good), the car straightens out and approaches the next turn... same hilarious cycle repeats... i was laughing so hard drving behind him, i had to pull off to the hot pit.
Old 04-25-2008, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mooty
first 8 HC is very amazing.
after that, you see a gradual fall off.
after 12 HC the fall off curve steepens
at some point, maybe 20HC, you will find the car slides so much it's no longer fun.

i was following a very good GT3 driver, 3 seconds faster than me on just about every track. when his tires were 20HC, it was hilarious following him. he goes in too deep, then tire wont slow down when he brakes, then he understeers so much like he's aiming for the tirewall, then goes a tad sideways as he finally makes the turn (he has full control of his car, he is good), the car straightens out and approaches the next turn... same hilarious cycle repeats... i was laughing so hard drving behind him, i had to pull off to the hot pit.
With my luck, I'm sure they have something like 25 HCs on them...

We'll see, two days in Homestead is 6-8 HCs, hopefully they're pretty good.

BTW, everyone:

Any differences as far as set-up goes (when compared to MPSCs or better yet, Kumho V71s)?

Thanks.
Old 05-11-2008, 07:46 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by mooty
they are not left/right specific.

thanks. had concluded as much but doubted myself as when i first picked them up the tyre shop had mentioned to me on the way out to remember to put some with serial number out etc...

Hoosier official response is it doesnt matter but recomment doing it all one way or the other (assume that is just so you remember what you did).

the hoosier is awesome but i have now tested them back to back twice against the toyo r888 and i think they are 3 X the price per lap (if thats relevant for anyone making a decision). i need to analyse how much better they are under brakes v mid corner.

the 255/315 toyo is a great size combo.
Old 05-11-2008, 10:03 AM
  #69  
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Ed,

I tried the Nitto about a year ago. Very goog grip but very unstable at high speed under breaking. They were unshaved. I stop running them immediately as it made me unconfortable. Just tried R888 and they had the same problem. After 4 run sessions this unstability went away and the R888 were great. The Nitto might do the same. I would love to try them again. The unstability might be due to the thickness of the tread blocks at first and heat cycling may also make the rubber stiffer. Let me know how it goes. Shaving might be the answer, just like an RA1.

Stephan
Old 05-11-2008, 10:30 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by yss
thanks. had concluded as much but doubted myself as when i first picked them up the tyre shop had mentioned to me on the way out to remember to put some with serial number out etc...

Hoosier official response is it doesnt matter but recomment doing it all one way or the other (assume that is just so you remember what you did).

the hoosier is awesome but i have now tested them back to back twice against the toyo r888 and i think they are 3 X the price per lap (if thats relevant for anyone making a decision). i need to analyse how much better they are under brakes v mid corner.

the 255/315 toyo is a great size combo.
255/315 is the size i run, perfect (toyo that is)
R6 is definiltey better and faster than R888, but 1/2 the life. so i only run a few sets a year to "reward" myself. otherwise i slum with the toyo's and be happy.

with regard to instability of nitto nt01, toyo r888 and ra1, at full tread, they always twitch under hard straightline breaking. you wont lose grip, it just feels "scary". get ready to counter steer (on the straights). i dont mind i am used to that. if you hate it, just shave them. no more wiggle
Old 05-12-2008, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mooty
255/315 is the size i run, perfect (toyo that is)
R6 is definiltey better and faster than R888, but 1/2 the life. so i only run a few sets a year to "reward" myself. otherwise i slum with the toyo's and be happy.

with regard to instability of nitto nt01, toyo r888 and ra1, at full tread, they always twitch under hard straightline breaking. you wont lose grip, it just feels "scary". get ready to counter steer (on the straights). i dont mind i am used to that. if you hate it, just shave them. no more wiggle

I have a related question on the "twitch" with full treaded R888's.
I was on a track with new R888's and hit the brakes hard at high speed. The effect was that under heavy brake load, the ASR activated as did the ABS. It felt like i lost my brakes (My Performance box shows a large drop in braking G at the time). It might be wise to run the full treaded toyos with TC off until they are worn past the iniialbeak in stage.
Would that de-acivate ASR and preserve braking power? if in fact ASR retards brakes at the expense of keeping the car straight. Does this make sense to anyone?

The experience i refer to involves braking at the end of a straight that is kinda kinked so you are barely straight when you hit the brakes.
Old 05-12-2008, 10:25 AM
  #72  
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Mooty - interesting re wear rate on hoosier v R888.
i reckon it is 3:1 wear in favour of toyos.

will buy the next toyos shaved and compare.
any idea how much of the wear we take off when we get them shaved?
Old 05-12-2008, 03:24 PM
  #73  
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usually they shave them down to 4/32 or 3/32, no?
Old 05-12-2008, 06:10 PM
  #74  
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Default R6 Heat Cycles

I have 13 Heat Cycles on mine and just flipped to opposite sides to see how much more I can get, for example taking the tire off each wheel and moving to the other so that now the inside is outside and vica versa. Plenty of tread depth but stick will likely deteriorate.



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