GT3 RS Problem
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Love the car. One issue that is not just me (I had two other Porsche drivers attempt to do it also). I find it impossible, regardless of what type shoes I'm wearing, to heel/toe down shift!
I have the CCB's and the problem is that the brake pedal sits too high above the throttle. It's not an issue of horizontal distance at all.
The brake pedal is so high above the throttle pedal that it is impossible for me to touch the throttle without having already applied way too much brake.
Are the pedals adjustable? Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know who makes a good aftermarket adjustable set?
Thanks,
Philip
I have the CCB's and the problem is that the brake pedal sits too high above the throttle. It's not an issue of horizontal distance at all.
The brake pedal is so high above the throttle pedal that it is impossible for me to touch the throttle without having already applied way too much brake.
Are the pedals adjustable? Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know who makes a good aftermarket adjustable set?
Thanks,
Philip
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That was my initial impression at first, as the brakes bite so well.
At speed H/T is just fine, and all is well. On the street a waste of time.
For me the stock set-up works just fine.
It is an acquired skill...
At speed H/T is just fine, and all is well. On the street a waste of time.
For me the stock set-up works just fine.
It is an acquired skill...
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Hey Brian, I just got back from six months in LA. As you know, I have plenty of GT3 track time (about 30 hours now) and have never had a problem H/T any car. It is physically impossible in this car (at least they way mine was delivered). Hope all is well. Philip
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Philip, I know the early air cooled cars had a threaded brake pedal that would allow you to lower the height of the pedal relative to the gas pedal. I would be surprised if the pedals on the late model cars would not adjust, maybe not in the same manner, but they ought to be asjustable nonetheless. Check the shop manual or get advernterous and pull up the floor board to see how the peadl cluster is set up.
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um no offense but total bs!! the pedals are perfect but heel toe cant be done well for street drivng or even spirtited street driving in the cars due to the superb brakes in the car and initial bite... however on the track or during threshold braking the are absolutely perfect height.. i have herd this so many ties eve with students at the track i cant heel toe bc the brake pedal to high.... go faster/ deeper into the brake zone apply more pressure and suddleny they have it
seriously the ite on the brakes makes it hard for a proper smooth tranition on the street
seriously the ite on the brakes makes it hard for a proper smooth tranition on the street
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Love the car. One issue that is not just me (I had two other Porsche drivers attempt to do it also). I find it impossible, regardless of what type shoes I'm wearing, to heel/toe down shift!
I have the CCB's and the problem is that the brake pedal sits too high above the throttle. It's not an issue of horizontal distance at all.
The brake pedal is so high above the throttle pedal that it is impossible for me to touch the throttle without having already applied way too much brake.
Are the pedals adjustable? Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know who makes a good aftermarket adjustable set?
Thanks,
Philip
I have the CCB's and the problem is that the brake pedal sits too high above the throttle. It's not an issue of horizontal distance at all.
The brake pedal is so high above the throttle pedal that it is impossible for me to touch the throttle without having already applied way too much brake.
Are the pedals adjustable? Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know who makes a good aftermarket adjustable set?
Thanks,
Philip
Do you *actually* heel/toe, or do you roll the side of your right foot to blip the throttle?
On Porsche, I find it almost impossible to "heel/toe" as described above, but that method works best on most other cars in the stable. It seems to be the way a lot of people interpret the term heel/toe, too, from my instructing experience.
On Porsche I have to heel/toe in the literal sense: right heel rotated completely on the gas and toes on the brake.
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[QUOTE=930man;4764987]um no offense but total bs!! the pedals are perfect but heel toe cant be done well for street drivng or even spirtited street driving in the cars due to the superb brakes in the car and initial bite... however on the track or during threshold braking the are absolutely perfect height.. i have herd this so many ties eve with students at the track i cant heel toe bc the brake pedal to high.... go faster/ deeper into the brake zone apply more pressure and suddleny they have it
seriously the ite on the brakes makes it hard for a proper smooth tranition on the street[/QUOTE
I totally agree, on the street it's almost imposible for the reasons you mentioned. On the street on my 996 TT with steel brakes I have no problems with H/T but on the 997 GT3 with ceramics it's extremely difficult either rolling your foot or keeping your right heel under the gas pedal.
seriously the ite on the brakes makes it hard for a proper smooth tranition on the street[/QUOTE
I totally agree, on the street it's almost imposible for the reasons you mentioned. On the street on my 996 TT with steel brakes I have no problems with H/T but on the 997 GT3 with ceramics it's extremely difficult either rolling your foot or keeping your right heel under the gas pedal.
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Todd, I roll.
I guess it's unanimous; I'll have to wait until I hit the track, but I find it hard to believe that I'm going to be able to press the brake pedal down far enough to allow me to roll on to the throttle!
I guess it's unanimous; I'll have to wait until I hit the track, but I find it hard to believe that I'm going to be able to press the brake pedal down far enough to allow me to roll on to the throttle!
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I have commented on this problem / issue at least 3 times but let me do it again.
1) When you first get a pccb braked car, the rotors have a friction surface on them that cause the grab point to be approximately 1" higher than they will be once you wear this surface material off - you must do 20 stops from 100mph to 20mph in a row to make the rotors function how they should - I am 100% certain about this - you must torture the rotors to make them behave in a way that the pedal can be depressed further and then easily modulated - when i hear someone say that the pccb brakes are "incredible" "amazing" "on-off" "etc" i know that they haven't yet tracked the car / worked them in. The brakes will still be "fantastic" but they will have a bite point that is 1" lower AND you will be able to modulate them (you can't when you first get them).
2) With #1 said above, i will say that my style is not to "heal / toe" but to "toe / toe". Therefore, I would recommend not the rennline pedal above, but the other rennline pedal linked below. You do not need to install the other pedals just use the screws provided and install the throttle pedal only offset about 1/2" to the left and install the upper not lower red extention. This will allow extremely easy "toe / toe" (right side / left side) downshifting.
I have done 20 track days with this setup and i would describe it as incredible easy to do - but beat the crap out of the rotors first to get the initial bite point lower.
Paul
http://www.rennline.com/prodinfo.asp...=P71%2E60%2E59
1) When you first get a pccb braked car, the rotors have a friction surface on them that cause the grab point to be approximately 1" higher than they will be once you wear this surface material off - you must do 20 stops from 100mph to 20mph in a row to make the rotors function how they should - I am 100% certain about this - you must torture the rotors to make them behave in a way that the pedal can be depressed further and then easily modulated - when i hear someone say that the pccb brakes are "incredible" "amazing" "on-off" "etc" i know that they haven't yet tracked the car / worked them in. The brakes will still be "fantastic" but they will have a bite point that is 1" lower AND you will be able to modulate them (you can't when you first get them).
2) With #1 said above, i will say that my style is not to "heal / toe" but to "toe / toe". Therefore, I would recommend not the rennline pedal above, but the other rennline pedal linked below. You do not need to install the other pedals just use the screws provided and install the throttle pedal only offset about 1/2" to the left and install the upper not lower red extention. This will allow extremely easy "toe / toe" (right side / left side) downshifting.
I have done 20 track days with this setup and i would describe it as incredible easy to do - but beat the crap out of the rotors first to get the initial bite point lower.
Paul
http://www.rennline.com/prodinfo.asp...=P71%2E60%2E59
#13
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I have commented on this problem / issue at least 3 times but let me do it again.
1) When you first get a pccb braked car, the rotors have a friction surface on them that cause the grab point to be approximately 1" higher than they will be once you wear this surface material off - you must do 20 stops from 100mph to 20mph in a row to make the rotors function how they should - I am 100% certain about this - you must torture the rotors to make them behave in a way that the pedal can be depressed further and then easily modulated - when i hear someone say that the pccb brakes are "incredible" "amazing" "on-off" "etc" i know that they haven't yet tracked the car / worked them in. The brakes will still be "fantastic" but they will have a bite point that is 1" lower AND you will be able to modulate them (you can't when you first get them).
2) With #1 said above, i will say that my style is not to "heal / toe" but to "toe / toe". Therefore, I would recommend not the rennline pedal above, but the other rennline pedal linked below. You do not need to install the other pedals just use the screws provided and install the throttle pedal only offset about 1/2" to the left and install the upper not lower red extention. This will allow extremely easy "toe / toe" (right side / left side) downshifting.
I have done 20 track days with this setup and i would describe it as incredible easy to do - but beat the crap out of the rotors first to get the initial bite point lower.
Paul
http://www.rennline.com/prodinfo.asp...=P71%2E60%2E59
1) When you first get a pccb braked car, the rotors have a friction surface on them that cause the grab point to be approximately 1" higher than they will be once you wear this surface material off - you must do 20 stops from 100mph to 20mph in a row to make the rotors function how they should - I am 100% certain about this - you must torture the rotors to make them behave in a way that the pedal can be depressed further and then easily modulated - when i hear someone say that the pccb brakes are "incredible" "amazing" "on-off" "etc" i know that they haven't yet tracked the car / worked them in. The brakes will still be "fantastic" but they will have a bite point that is 1" lower AND you will be able to modulate them (you can't when you first get them).
2) With #1 said above, i will say that my style is not to "heal / toe" but to "toe / toe". Therefore, I would recommend not the rennline pedal above, but the other rennline pedal linked below. You do not need to install the other pedals just use the screws provided and install the throttle pedal only offset about 1/2" to the left and install the upper not lower red extention. This will allow extremely easy "toe / toe" (right side / left side) downshifting.
I have done 20 track days with this setup and i would describe it as incredible easy to do - but beat the crap out of the rotors first to get the initial bite point lower.
Paul
http://www.rennline.com/prodinfo.asp...=P71%2E60%2E59
That was a great explanation, thanks. I'm ordering that pedal tomorrow.
#15
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I have the exact same experience as 997GT3North.
At first, I was impressed and at the same time concerned that the brake pedal bit almost at the first touch, which was too high to comfortably toe-heel. After driving the car harder for a few thousand km, the pedal now bites lower down and there is no problem whatsoever.
One thing, it also depends on your body height and shoe size. If you are small enough to have knees right under the steering column, then you can literally toe-heel.
If not, with increased height you probably also have a larger shoe size (i.e. wider shoes, unless you wear racing shoes) and therefore you can get by only with rolling your right foot.
I agree that compared to many other cars with sporting aspirations, the GT3 has the pedals set wider than is usual. On the other hand, you don´t have to wear special shoes and can get by with any old shoe you prefer. I always think that is down to the Rohrl factor, as I have never seen him with narrow shoes except in racing videos.
Bottom line, after the break-in period, toe-heeling is bliss in this car.
At first, I was impressed and at the same time concerned that the brake pedal bit almost at the first touch, which was too high to comfortably toe-heel. After driving the car harder for a few thousand km, the pedal now bites lower down and there is no problem whatsoever.
One thing, it also depends on your body height and shoe size. If you are small enough to have knees right under the steering column, then you can literally toe-heel.
If not, with increased height you probably also have a larger shoe size (i.e. wider shoes, unless you wear racing shoes) and therefore you can get by only with rolling your right foot.
I agree that compared to many other cars with sporting aspirations, the GT3 has the pedals set wider than is usual. On the other hand, you don´t have to wear special shoes and can get by with any old shoe you prefer. I always think that is down to the Rohrl factor, as I have never seen him with narrow shoes except in racing videos.
Bottom line, after the break-in period, toe-heeling is bliss in this car.