that's it, i'm going to paint my red calipers yellow.

 

Nordschelife, cool name by the way, have seen you posts for some time and it seems that you have quite a bit of knowledge. Can you recommend the best way to bedd in PCCB?

Maybe you can give a tip of best hot tyre pressure for 19" Michelin sport cups tyres also. There is a lot tips regarding the 18" but the thread and compound is different for the 19".

 

I was watching a 997 GT3 yesterday at SOW stopping from probably 125 - 130 MPH to nothing. It was impressive almost violent the way that car stopped.

 

I'm sure Nordschelife will respond, in the meantime FWIW here's how I generally bed-in PCCB pads (done it a number of times since both my RS and Turbo S have PCCBs).

Start with 4-5 moderate braking from say 60-30 mph in quick succession; follow with another 4-5 harder braking from say 90-30 mph in quick succession again; followed by 2-3 full bloodied, threshold braking from triple digits down to 30 mph. Don't come to a standing stop. Your brakes should be smelling of burning...green fade. Drive around for ~ 10 mins to cool 'em down. Repeat the above sequence one more time and you should be all set.

If the car's been driven on the street a lot you may hear the brakes squeal (the pad deposits have worn off) and it's time to bed 'em again.

Hope this helps...

 

Thanks for the great info.

 

Good Thread.

 

Here are some bedding in instructions

The best people to get information from are the pad testers, they know their material, but not all development engineers drive hard, so you may have to experiment.

WARNING:

Nearly all brake system problems are due to improper installation and/or break-in of rotors and pads. By following these instructions you will avoid most of the causes of poor brake performance and vibration. When breaking-in rotors and pads you are heat cycling these parts. Additionally, a layer of pad material is deposited onto the rotors surface. This is essential and fundamental for the proper operation of the brake system. If not bedded-in properly, an uneven layer of pad material is deposited onto the rotor surface making the steering wheel vibrate and/or a pulsating brake pedal effect. In almost all instances of the “warped rotor” effect, the actual cause found to be uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor surface.
Under moderate driving conditions, the new brake system will be bedded-in over 500-1000 km (300-600 miles). There is specific bedding in procedures.
If performing the specific bedding in procedure, great care must be taken not to inconvenience other road users or endanger yourself or other road users. It is suggested that bedding in should be carried out on closed roads or other private driving area, such as an airfield.
Firstly, perform a series of 10-15 stops from 80-100 km/h (50-60 mph) to 20 km/h (12 mp/h) using a light pedal pressure. The exact speed is not important. As soon as you have slowed, accelerate again to 100 km/h and repeat the procedure. It is most important that you do not come to a complete halt as pad material would be imprinted onto a single part of the rotor surface which will cause vibrations later.
After the 7th or 8th stop, expect the rotors to smoke slightly. This is normal and will not affect the bedding-in result in any way. Usually this is accompanied by a characteristic smell.
After the 8th or 9th stop, expect slight fading, this is normal and will go away once the brakes have cooled down completely. After this first stage of the bedding-in procedure, the rotor should show a light gray surface. If high performance pads are used, add 4-5 stops from 140 km/h to 20 km/h (80-12 mp/h) with light to medium pedal pressure.
At this stage, the brake system still does not operate at its full capacity. The brake pad material is attached to maybe 20% of the rotor surface. Two or three more cycles are needed to get the brakes working at their real capacity.
To cool the system down, drive the car for a distance at 80 km/h only using the brakes sparingly. This will allow the proper flow of ventilating air through the rotors. When finally stopping the car, do not use the hand brake when parking.
Repeat the above cycle once or twice, then optionally carry out the next stage.
Carry out this optional stage whilst the brakes are still warm. Accelerate to 180 km/h and brake firmly to 20 km/h, repeat this cycle 8 times without coming to a complete stop. At no stage should your braking effort exceed 85% of the ABS intervention threshold. You should notice the strong characteristic smell by the 4th iteration. Be sure to cool the brakes completely before halting the car, do not use the hand brake.
There may still be manufacturing marks / ephemera visible on the rotor surface. These will go away after the first 500-1000 km (300-600 miles). As soon as you do not see these marks anymore and the rotor surface is smooth with the same colour all over, you will have full heat transfer and braking power. Always make sure to cool the brakes down completely between each cycle. A cycle is a series of stops to break-in the rotors and pads. The more patience you have and the longer you will break-in the rotors and pads, the better the result will be.
During the breaking-in of the brake system, hard stops from high speeds should be avoided. Rotors and pads may be damaged doing this.
Breaking-in the pads should not be done in wet road conditions. Inspect your brake rotors and pads regularly. Clean the holes with a suitable tool regularly to avoid brake rotor failure and excessive wear. Inspect the brake rotors for cracks . Cracks of up to 4 mm around the holes are “normal” and do not affect your brake system’s performance in any kind. cracks from the “outer” hole to the outer diameter of the rotor may lead to a complete cracking of the rotors and may cause severe damage to the suspension and as a result to the complete car. If the rotors show cracks to the outer diameter replace them at once. Carbon ceramic rotors have been known to shatter under extreme conditions.

Hope this helps.

R+C

 

.....not from the performance perspective but more due to the lack of brake dust getting caked on my wheels.

There was a review by someone who recently attended the Porsche Sport Driving School where they drove both steel rotors and PCCB's. Might be worth looking at those comments from somebody who drove the different cars on the track in the same day.

How do you intend to use your car?

 

I have had with ceramics and I have had without ceramics. All future cars (Porsche, Ferrrai etc willhave ceramics).

In fact, if a manufacturer doesn't offer ceramics I won't buy the car.

 

Its not the rotors - its the pads.

if you you use your brakes at close to their maximum mechanical potential, you will create dust. we stop the car by rubbing the pad against the rotor, two things happen, we generate heat and we abrade the pad and rotor surface. If we don't abrade the pad, we won't have much braking effect.

Often the comparison between PCCBs and iron rotors is not comparing like with like. In very many instances the PCCBs are larger than the iron rotors they replace.

So what people are comparing is the amount of pad dust from an iron rotor system operated at 85% of its potential with that from a PCCB system operating at 70% of its potential.

Sure, different rotor material does call for different pad material, which will create dust at different rates and vary in non-linear relationships with force, temperature and abrading surface.

I find that there are plenty of reliable service stations that have car washes that I can take the car to on the way home and that there are a great many young boys and girls hasppy to clean out the holes in the rotors when asked. Like the factory at Zuffenhausen, I have no issues with taking my car to a good car wash. Yes, in the courtyard behind Porsdche Exclusive and Classic there is a normal automated car wash and it has washed all sorts of cars,

I wouldn't get **** about pad dust, it shows you are using the car. There is something about the appearance, sound and smell of a beautiful car that has just been expertly flogged across a mountain range, the shimmering heat, the ticking, the smell of brakes, oil, sweat, gasoline, rubber, the smears of insects, the dust from the pads, even discolouring from the exhaust. If a parfumier could bottle that..... on second thoughts no don't, much more fun doing it for real.

Pad dust is part of 'doing the business'.

R+C