Steel discs to replace new PCCB?
#16
Burning Brakes
Matt, feel free to send me an email.
I've noticed some things regarding the PCCB's in track-like conditions.
Green fade happens EVERY time I put some serious heat into these pads after some considerable street miles. I've noticed that I can get green fade on the street if your trying to slow down from triple digit speeds. On track it can be very disconcerting. In the back of your mind, you're thinking "I've got PCCB's...this is going to tear the fur off my face." They do, but only after you get them hot again.
I've noticed every time I put my car into track-like conditions I'm going to fight green fade. The fade goes away after you let them cool off (say, like coming in between run groups sessions). After you let them cool, the pads are ready to go. Basically, you have to bed them in every time you go back to the track-like conditions after driving it on the street for any length of time. Once they are bed-in, they are pretty darn good.
Tires are such a huge part of the equation too. I'm assuming you know your stuff re: tracks and I'm not even going to comment on your brake techniques- but I've noticed that unless the asphalt is up to temp, and the tire, it's very very hard to get the full brake torque from these PCCB's down to the pavement. ABS jumps in and can double your braking distance. Ask me how I know...
One thing to watch out...when you start to accumulate the miles, make sure to keep a very keen eye on the rear pads. I've noticed my rear pads burn about twice as fast as the fronts. In fact, I need to replace my rears this week. I've noticed the braking gets iffy as the rears start to wear down. I'm assuming it's because there isn't enough pad to deal with the heat, and ultimately the brake balance gets thrown off from front to rear. I've noticed as the pads start to wear more and more in the rear, LESS braking force is required on the pedal in order to get the same brake torque. Very confusing, but once you learn to adapt to what the car is telling you it's pretty easy. Feels weird going into a braking zone at 150mph and using a 1/3 of the brake force that you would *think* you would need. If I stood on the pedal I would only activate ABS and that would double the distance and run right off T1.
feel free to pm/email me to discuss.
I've noticed some things regarding the PCCB's in track-like conditions.
Green fade happens EVERY time I put some serious heat into these pads after some considerable street miles. I've noticed that I can get green fade on the street if your trying to slow down from triple digit speeds. On track it can be very disconcerting. In the back of your mind, you're thinking "I've got PCCB's...this is going to tear the fur off my face." They do, but only after you get them hot again.
I've noticed every time I put my car into track-like conditions I'm going to fight green fade. The fade goes away after you let them cool off (say, like coming in between run groups sessions). After you let them cool, the pads are ready to go. Basically, you have to bed them in every time you go back to the track-like conditions after driving it on the street for any length of time. Once they are bed-in, they are pretty darn good.
Tires are such a huge part of the equation too. I'm assuming you know your stuff re: tracks and I'm not even going to comment on your brake techniques- but I've noticed that unless the asphalt is up to temp, and the tire, it's very very hard to get the full brake torque from these PCCB's down to the pavement. ABS jumps in and can double your braking distance. Ask me how I know...
One thing to watch out...when you start to accumulate the miles, make sure to keep a very keen eye on the rear pads. I've noticed my rear pads burn about twice as fast as the fronts. In fact, I need to replace my rears this week. I've noticed the braking gets iffy as the rears start to wear down. I'm assuming it's because there isn't enough pad to deal with the heat, and ultimately the brake balance gets thrown off from front to rear. I've noticed as the pads start to wear more and more in the rear, LESS braking force is required on the pedal in order to get the same brake torque. Very confusing, but once you learn to adapt to what the car is telling you it's pretty easy. Feels weird going into a braking zone at 150mph and using a 1/3 of the brake force that you would *think* you would need. If I stood on the pedal I would only activate ABS and that would double the distance and run right off T1.
feel free to pm/email me to discuss.
#17
Matt, feel free to send me an email.
I've noticed some things regarding the PCCB's in track-like conditions.
Green fade happens EVERY time I put some serious heat into these pads after some considerable street miles. I've noticed that I can get green fade on the street if your trying to slow down from triple digit speeds. On track it can be very disconcerting. In the back of your mind, you're thinking "I've got PCCB's...this is going to tear the fur off my face." They do, but only after you get them hot again.
I've noticed every time I put my car into track-like conditions I'm going to fight green fade. The fade goes away after you let them cool off (say, like coming in between run groups sessions). After you let them cool, the pads are ready to go. Basically, you have to bed them in every time you go back to the track-like conditions after driving it on the street for any length of time. Once they are bed-in, they are pretty darn good.
Tires are such a huge part of the equation too. I'm assuming you know your stuff re: tracks and I'm not even going to comment on your brake techniques- but I've noticed that unless the asphalt is up to temp, and the tire, it's very very hard to get the full brake torque from these PCCB's down to the pavement. ABS jumps in and can double your braking distance. Ask me how I know...
One thing to watch out...when you start to accumulate the miles, make sure to keep a very keen eye on the rear pads. I've noticed my rear pads burn about twice as fast as the fronts. In fact, I need to replace my rears this week. I've noticed the braking gets iffy as the rears start to wear down. I'm assuming it's because there isn't enough pad to deal with the heat, and ultimately the brake balance gets thrown off from front to rear. I've noticed as the pads start to wear more and more in the rear, LESS braking force is required on the pedal in order to get the same brake torque. Very confusing, but once you learn to adapt to what the car is telling you it's pretty easy. Feels weird going into a braking zone at 150mph and using a 1/3 of the brake force that you would *think* you would need. If I stood on the pedal I would only activate ABS and that would double the distance and run right off T1.
feel free to pm/email me to discuss.
I've noticed some things regarding the PCCB's in track-like conditions.
Green fade happens EVERY time I put some serious heat into these pads after some considerable street miles. I've noticed that I can get green fade on the street if your trying to slow down from triple digit speeds. On track it can be very disconcerting. In the back of your mind, you're thinking "I've got PCCB's...this is going to tear the fur off my face." They do, but only after you get them hot again.
I've noticed every time I put my car into track-like conditions I'm going to fight green fade. The fade goes away after you let them cool off (say, like coming in between run groups sessions). After you let them cool, the pads are ready to go. Basically, you have to bed them in every time you go back to the track-like conditions after driving it on the street for any length of time. Once they are bed-in, they are pretty darn good.
Tires are such a huge part of the equation too. I'm assuming you know your stuff re: tracks and I'm not even going to comment on your brake techniques- but I've noticed that unless the asphalt is up to temp, and the tire, it's very very hard to get the full brake torque from these PCCB's down to the pavement. ABS jumps in and can double your braking distance. Ask me how I know...
One thing to watch out...when you start to accumulate the miles, make sure to keep a very keen eye on the rear pads. I've noticed my rear pads burn about twice as fast as the fronts. In fact, I need to replace my rears this week. I've noticed the braking gets iffy as the rears start to wear down. I'm assuming it's because there isn't enough pad to deal with the heat, and ultimately the brake balance gets thrown off from front to rear. I've noticed as the pads start to wear more and more in the rear, LESS braking force is required on the pedal in order to get the same brake torque. Very confusing, but once you learn to adapt to what the car is telling you it's pretty easy. Feels weird going into a braking zone at 150mph and using a 1/3 of the brake force that you would *think* you would need. If I stood on the pedal I would only activate ABS and that would double the distance and run right off T1.
feel free to pm/email me to discuss.
- i just replied in another thread about the green fade issue - it is a must to bed in new pads for sure before you hit the track
- for those that comment and say it is braking technique, they either don't have pccbs or they have never been on a track - i'm on my third set of fronts and it happens every time
- also, your front /rear braking issue is also true, i experienced it yesterday with the rear pads having less material than the fronts
#18
Rennlist Member
Matt, feel free to send me an email.
I've noticed some things regarding the PCCB's in track-like conditions.
Green fade happens EVERY time I put some serious heat into these pads after some considerable street miles. I've noticed that I can get green fade on the street if your trying to slow down from triple digit speeds. On track it can be very disconcerting. In the back of your mind, you're thinking "I've got PCCB's...this is going to tear the fur off my face." They do, but only after you get them hot again.
I've noticed every time I put my car into track-like conditions I'm going to fight green fade. The fade goes away after you let them cool off (say, like coming in between run groups sessions). After you let them cool, the pads are ready to go. Basically, you have to bed them in every time you go back to the track-like conditions after driving it on the street for any length of time. Once they are bed-in, they are pretty darn good.
Tires are such a huge part of the equation too. I'm assuming you know your stuff re: tracks and I'm not even going to comment on your brake techniques- but I've noticed that unless the asphalt is up to temp, and the tire, it's very very hard to get the full brake torque from these PCCB's down to the pavement. ABS jumps in and can double your braking distance. Ask me how I know...
One thing to watch out...when you start to accumulate the miles, make sure to keep a very keen eye on the rear pads. I've noticed my rear pads burn about twice as fast as the fronts. In fact, I need to replace my rears this week. I've noticed the braking gets iffy as the rears start to wear down. I'm assuming it's because there isn't enough pad to deal with the heat, and ultimately the brake balance gets thrown off from front to rear. I've noticed as the pads start to wear more and more in the rear, LESS braking force is required on the pedal in order to get the same brake torque. Very confusing, but once you learn to adapt to what the car is telling you it's pretty easy. Feels weird going into a braking zone at 150mph and using a 1/3 of the brake force that you would *think* you would need. If I stood on the pedal I would only activate ABS and that would double the distance and run right off T1.
feel free to pm/email me to discuss.
I've noticed some things regarding the PCCB's in track-like conditions.
Green fade happens EVERY time I put some serious heat into these pads after some considerable street miles. I've noticed that I can get green fade on the street if your trying to slow down from triple digit speeds. On track it can be very disconcerting. In the back of your mind, you're thinking "I've got PCCB's...this is going to tear the fur off my face." They do, but only after you get them hot again.
I've noticed every time I put my car into track-like conditions I'm going to fight green fade. The fade goes away after you let them cool off (say, like coming in between run groups sessions). After you let them cool, the pads are ready to go. Basically, you have to bed them in every time you go back to the track-like conditions after driving it on the street for any length of time. Once they are bed-in, they are pretty darn good.
Tires are such a huge part of the equation too. I'm assuming you know your stuff re: tracks and I'm not even going to comment on your brake techniques- but I've noticed that unless the asphalt is up to temp, and the tire, it's very very hard to get the full brake torque from these PCCB's down to the pavement. ABS jumps in and can double your braking distance. Ask me how I know...
One thing to watch out...when you start to accumulate the miles, make sure to keep a very keen eye on the rear pads. I've noticed my rear pads burn about twice as fast as the fronts. In fact, I need to replace my rears this week. I've noticed the braking gets iffy as the rears start to wear down. I'm assuming it's because there isn't enough pad to deal with the heat, and ultimately the brake balance gets thrown off from front to rear. I've noticed as the pads start to wear more and more in the rear, LESS braking force is required on the pedal in order to get the same brake torque. Very confusing, but once you learn to adapt to what the car is telling you it's pretty easy. Feels weird going into a braking zone at 150mph and using a 1/3 of the brake force that you would *think* you would need. If I stood on the pedal I would only activate ABS and that would double the distance and run right off T1.
feel free to pm/email me to discuss.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Matt, you can also try the Porsche MotorSports iron rotors from the 997 GT3 Cup. I have no idea on their price.
Other than braking issues, how did your lap times compare to the 996 GT3? It would be interesting to read your impressions given that you have driven the 996 GT3, 996 GT3 Cup, 997 GT3 and 997 GT3 RS at the longest road course available in U.S.A.
Other than braking issues, how did your lap times compare to the 996 GT3? It would be interesting to read your impressions given that you have driven the 996 GT3, 996 GT3 Cup, 997 GT3 and 997 GT3 RS at the longest road course available in U.S.A.
#21
I was at the track on Monday. After a easy first lap, I was coming off the straight and went to break from 110 or so. The pedal got VERY soft and felt like it was going to the floor. Took it easy the rest of the lap and came in. Every thing checked out and went back out. The brakes seemed ok for the rest of the day, but it made me nervous and I called it an early day- esp after I spinned at one corner.
I bleed the brakes when I got home and found no air bubbles. I'm going to take it to my mechanic on Friday and see if anything is wrong. I thought that there might be air in the ABS, but he said that air in the ABS only happens on the widebodies and that in the GT3, the ABS is passed.
Reading this makes it sound like this is normal for the PCCB's. It was the car's first trip on the track, so the brakes weren't bedded in yet.
Does this sound like what is happening to you guys?
Thanks,
Steve
I bleed the brakes when I got home and found no air bubbles. I'm going to take it to my mechanic on Friday and see if anything is wrong. I thought that there might be air in the ABS, but he said that air in the ABS only happens on the widebodies and that in the GT3, the ABS is passed.
Reading this makes it sound like this is normal for the PCCB's. It was the car's first trip on the track, so the brakes weren't bedded in yet.
Does this sound like what is happening to you guys?
Thanks,
Steve
#22
Burning Brakes
#23
Burning Brakes
I was at the track on Monday. After a easy first lap, I was coming off the straight and went to break from 110 or so. The pedal got VERY soft and felt like it was going to the floor. Took it easy the rest of the lap and came in. Every thing checked out and went back out. The brakes seemed ok for the rest of the day, but it made me nervous and I called it an early day- esp after I spinned at one corner.
I bleed the brakes when I got home and found no air bubbles. I'm going to take it to my mechanic on Friday and see if anything is wrong. I thought that there might be air in the ABS, but he said that air in the ABS only happens on the widebodies and that in the GT3, the ABS is passed.
Reading this makes it sound like this is normal for the PCCB's. It was the car's first trip on the track, so the brakes weren't bedded in yet.
Does this sound like what is happening to you guys?
Thanks,
Steve
I bleed the brakes when I got home and found no air bubbles. I'm going to take it to my mechanic on Friday and see if anything is wrong. I thought that there might be air in the ABS, but he said that air in the ABS only happens on the widebodies and that in the GT3, the ABS is passed.
Reading this makes it sound like this is normal for the PCCB's. It was the car's first trip on the track, so the brakes weren't bedded in yet.
Does this sound like what is happening to you guys?
Thanks,
Steve