norwegen911

Thanks for help guys. I will start lubricating the top mount.

I washed inside the wheel arches with pressure washer etc and after that I went for a trip in the rain for a few hours. What I experienced was that the annoying sound did not come before 1-2 hours. So I guess the wash put some water on the problem area and "lubricated" for some time before it dried up?

I dont want to spend a bunch of money since I am not track the car more than 1-2 days a year. I am not experienced track driver.

So I am guessing replacing with OEM if needed

jreifler

https://rennlist.com/forums/market/1322997

norwegen911

Are these top mounts normal or have they moved? Looking at the nuts

f50nut

Unless you lubricated it, that driver side appears to be leaking/wet.

norwegen911

I did lubricate before the picture

I want to try tighten the shock top mounts but not sure what I can use for holding the shaft in place?

If you look at the three nuts that holds the top mount, they have moved and made marks in the paint? Is this normal?

GTTommy

The top mounts help set the camber, it's fine to be like that from previous setups.

My logic would be check/replace, drop mounts then top mounts then dampers.

Is everything else tight?

norwegen911

Heres another video. Driving slow on a pretty flat straight road. The sound turns up after 30-60 minutes drive.
The sound does not get any worse on dumps or when dampers are more compressed. Its actually worse on pretty even roads

Have lubricated swaybar bushings and top mounts with no result. What are the drop mounts?

I spoke to bilstein rebuild service in UK and they can rebuild the dampers. And they said this is a common problem and maybe my problem according to what I told them.

What do you think?

GTTommy

It's definitely a light rattle going off your video.

Sway bar bushes tend to knock more than rattle so I don't think it's that. Top mounts can rattle, lubricating them I don't think would make a difference, if the bearing is worn, it's worn?

Sorry I was tired, drop links not drop mounts! If they get worn they tend to rattle under light load, easy swap for new, about 70 a side from dealer.

Ref the damper internals, I genuinely don't know, I took my oem coilovers off at 26k and went after market, although I had some slight rattles at time it could have been the dampers or the top mounts, I'll never know as it all got changed including drop links, arb bushes etc

Ultimately its worth trying the drop links as it's an easy swap, if that doesn't solve, the suspension needs to come off anyway for rebuild or replace and it's worth doing top mounts at the same time so it'll definitely be fixed after.

Before you do that though, have a look at some of the after market options, the cost to rebuild and replace as you'll probably need new springs too isn't far off a set of new of after markets. Improved ride quality and handling for nearly same money

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DJWGT3

I think you schould let the dealer/specialist replace the PASM shock to a brand new one and be on your way instead of McGyver-your-problem like this.

norwegen911

Does anyone have a DIY or youtube link on how to remove/replace 997 front damper?

jreifler

Found this. https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsc...-shocks-386604. I didn't use this, but the steps look correct. I've gotten struts out without having to compress the springs (which is potentially dangerous), but results may vary.

LionelB

Just curious on whether there was any conclusion on this ? I have the same issue only when warm etc... Thanks.

norwegen911

i did not fix it yet. I thought I would make it this winter but unfortunately not. Did you sort it out?

jamesinger

Just for the record...I also have not sorted mine out 😢😢😢. I did change the drop links and it slightly lessened the noise but it did not solve the problem. I was thinking about trying top mounts next and then just replacing the coilovers completely. I won't give up on this because I commute in my car and don't want to sit in traffic for 1-2 hours a day listening to suspension noises...

T0m

just get a set of Ohlins or KW's and it will be a "forever" fix