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I then searched for BMW E36 (they used the same extinct Bosch plugs as 997 GT3s)racing spark plugs, since the Cup part number is a Porsche part number-it seems I found it-but a word of caution-if you search for R2348-10 you can get a dubious result from some shops.
For instance, rock auto seems to have them, but the picture they use is wrong, and they only have 4 in stock. But they might be able to order more, if it's just the wrong picture but correct plug: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=69979&jsn=7
The correct one is listed below, it is a surface electrode plug, no protruding negative electrode at all. It looks like it is indeed the one listed for Cup cars up to 2017. The Porsche part number at FVD and Demonspeed say "991" but up to 2017 those cup cars used the 997 Mezger engine.
So these are the links for NGK racing plugs. I did see an eBay vendor selling direct from Japan, but the shipping was pretty steep.
Finding these through "vehicle fitment" search will not yield any results, because it's competition only-
$42.46 each, so less than half the price than the few places that sell them:
I did some more searching for the Racing plug- Only FVD, Demonspeed and Auto Atlanta list the Cup/Mezger/Motorsports NGK,
part # 991 602 201 8A
As posted, on the NGK website, the R2349 plugs are available-the heat ranges are 9,10 and 11
But the only heat range available is 10, (9 and 11 have been discontinued). These plugs would be used in screaming conditions, so people tracking their cars would probably benefit from using them-maybe the heat range is too cold for street use-
I did some more searching for the Racing plug- Only FVD, Demonspeed and Auto Atlanta list the Cup/Mezger/Motorsports NGK,
part # 991 602 201 8A
As posted, on the NGK website, the R2349 plugs are available-the heat ranges are 9,10 and 11
But the only heat range available is 10, (9 and 11 have been discontinued). These plugs would be used in screaming conditions, so people tracking their cars would probably benefit from using them-maybe the heat range is too cold for street use-
I did see in your site's picture of the plug that it was heat range11. NGK says it's been discontinued, but from what I see NGK's heat range 10 and 11 is still a colder plug compared to the OEM Bosch-
For those who want the Y5DDC, there you go, a source that has them 👍
As they disappear, NGK will be a good choice with 3 options-
i used the ngk R two years ago. runs great. is the interval every 2 or 4 years?
Interval is 4 years-and I did mine not long ago, otherwise I would probably try the Racing plugs. I like the fact it has no ground electrodes-
Lots of members track their cars, it would be interesting to see a used set after some time running-
I will probably try them the next time 👍
I went on the GT3 Cup section of rennlist where they were talking about the Racing NGK plug(which all Cup cars use)
The discussion died out and these days the heat range 11 has been discontinued. The surface discharge plug's function is to protect the engine and those cars are screaming for hours, a molten electrode would destroy the piston and cylinder.
I couldn't find any info on Cup car plug change intervals, and it's not in the Cup manual either. Anyway, there probably is no advantage using them on a street car-
I've shared with others in the past, but you may want to double check the orientation of your QuickJacks. The large yellow label on each lift is considered to be the "front" and it should be positioned (front/rear) to point to where the bulk of the mass resides. Our cars are so light that it may not really matter, but I have seen QJs struggle to lift the car because of the loading was not incorrect. Also worth noting, if you do flip them around so that the label points to the engine, make sure the mechanical locks are still on the outside of car (like yours is pictured).
Example: Engine in the front - Label side front Engine in the rear/mid - Label side rear
I just order a set of NGK plugs from Rockauto, and noticed Rockauto lists plug gap information. Anyone adjust the gap to match the "OE-Recommended Gap"?
Thanks.
So you check to confirm all are pre gapped to 0.036" (0.9 mm), but do not adjust gap to the OE recommended 0.032" (0.8 mm), is that correct? And is that concensus around here?
Looking at the graphic below the turbo and gt2 allows a ±0.004" variance (0.1 mm) but the gt3 does not.