mdosu

Hello, new remember checking in.

I just purchased a Speed Yellow 2008 GT3. I'm coming in from various BMW M ownership. I'm picking up the car on Monday and I'll put up some pictures.

I have a few questions:

1. What are the online parts dealers that offer OEM parts for reasonable pricing?

2. Is there an online repository of 997 GT3 service bulletins, DIYs?

3. Is there any information on factory recommended servicing intervals?

Thanks! I cannot wait for my ownership to start

Bxstr

Sunset is the cheapest I have found for genuine Porsche parts, with the Porsche logo. This would be things like interior trim, engine parts, etc.

Maintenance items and OEM parts, I try and buy as much from FCP Euro as I can since they have the lifetime replacement guarantee on all of their parts. Pelican is another good resource though.

Since you're coming from BMW, I'd recommend realoem.com. They have a section for Porsche now. This is great for parts diagrams. If you're looking for a specific part and can't find it, post and someone should be able to help.

Service intervals:
Minor maintenance checklist

Major maintenance checklist

Joe Cho

Welcome mdosu and nice post the other day on the GT3 market thread.

Bxstr

FLT6SPD is going to post the workshop manual link in this thread.

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...3-owner-2.html

Also, regarding TSB's, I have found these a bit more difficult to find. I have been able to get some through NHTSA, but not all of them.

mdosu

What a relief! FCP, RealOEM are all familiar to me as I've been a frequent customer/user over BMW ownership.

I'll check out Sunset, so thanks for this tip.

I've reviewed the maintenance records of my car and I think a Major is coming up, if not now, than in 12 months. Prior owner just changed the oil with Gibbs DT40 which I was pleasantly surprised about after researching the oil. I'm also very well versed with M1 0/40 also from BMW days, so I'm comfortable using that in the future.

​​​​ I found a few local shops that I will be speaking to in the upcoming days regarding future maintenance. My primary concerns are all the issues with the coolant leaks. I have to do some more research on this forum, but I have budgeted that at least soon I might have to do an engine out to pin the lines, replace some coolant plastic elbow pipe with a metal version, and still have to perform the Major - namely plugs, transmission fluid and drive belt. (I believe the majors does not require engine out).

pissedpuppy

dude, I can't wait for you to get your car - all new to the GT3, you're gonna be so f'ing stoked - these cars are amazing

once you get it and have driven it a bit, try and get in a newer one - a 991, or even a GT4 - then go home, pray to the gods that you have a 997, because it isn't as numb and boring. maybe a tad slower, but so much more rewarding to drive!!!

welcome, and enjoy!

Bxstr

Regarding the major and coolant lines, you are correct. A normal major service does not require the engine to come out. For oil, like any car forum, there is a lot of talk about that. People that have run oil analyses will say and show that Mobil 0W40 breaks/shears down relatively quickly, so some guys do prefer to run Mobil 5W50. I have been running Mobil 0W40, most of the guys I know run it, without issue as well. Some guys switch to Motul 5W40 as well. I am considering making the switch over to Mobil 5W50 come spring, but not sure yet.

For coolant lines it's really up to you on how soon you want to do so. If you're going to the track, do it before you do a track day. Some tracks require that they are pinned/welded prior to getting on track. You should do the Sharkwerks lines that replace the plastic lines as you mentioned that run to the oil cooler. Whether you pin or weld is up to you. Find a good shop and do what they prefer. My shop pins, Sharkwerks pins, some shops like BBI welds. Then once you have the engine out for that, you can figure out how much more you want to do. Coolant expansion tank is a good idea, although I did not do it on mine. I did fuel filter, drive belt, plugs, coils, water pump, thermostat, rear main seal, front crankshaft seal, and all fluids including trans and diff. If you're planning and budgeting to do coolant lines, I would try and plan the major and that at the same time since you may save on some labor while the engine is out with things easier to access.

pissedpuppy

^^^ personally, I'd do the 4.0L clutch kit too ^^^

smq42

And LWFW - w RS pulley. . .

I did this when I had the engine out for coolant lines and it transformed the car

(Slippery slope anyone?)

silviaks

there’s the whole thing about cam bolt loosening / harmonic balancing issue when you do LWFW. I won’t get into it, there are many threads which talks about it extensively. Just make sure you know all about the topic before you put upward of 5gs into your maintenance.

DK7

What is the approximate number of 997.2RS or 997.2 GT3 with single mass flywheels with engine damage?

bweSteve

Here's a few discussion threads on the topic...

Harmonics....
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...cking-out.html


Tom at TPC has some good data in here, and shows the tolerances on the cam adjuster bolts...
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...cking-out.html


another discussion (coverage on both .2 & .1)...
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-flywheel.html


Discussion focusing on the 1st Gen ...
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-on-gt3-s.html

Bxstr

From everything I've read, the 997.2 has an issue with the camshaft actuator bolts coming loose due to the LWFW. On the .2 GT3, this could happen if you went to a LWFW. On a .2RS, it could happen stock.

On the .1, that seems to be a separate issue which is the crank pulley coming loose. When you swap from a DMFW to a LWFW, you should also change the crank pulley and crank bolt to the RS one which is designed for the LWFW.

So for me, I would feel relatively comfortable putting a LWFW is put on a .1 car, as long as you get the correct pulley and bolt. On a .2 car, the Dundon harmonic balancer is supposed to be the best way to help prevent this issue. There are other options though like what TPC has done.


I do want to reach out to Jamie at Dundon at some point and ask him if he has ever seen a 997.1 GT3 or RS car with a LWFW have camshaft actuator bolts come loose. I don't think I have heard of any reports.

JB911

I've been running Mobil 5W-50 since I first got my car, which came with 0W-40. The only 5W-50 that's on Porsche's approval list is Mobil, and there are few other manufacturers that make a 5W-50. I've heard Motul makes one but US catalogs don't show it and in any case, it's not on the Porsche approved list-Motul's 5W-40 oils are.
There are some maintenance threads and DIY so you can change your own plugs. Don't get plugs at a dealer when it comes time, the same Bosch without the Porsche Box label are about 3 times cheaper

I get the 5W-50 from Napa, they have an annual sale sometimes at $4.79 a quart, can't beat that-
Congrats on the car

mdosu

Wow, thanks for all this info on the LWFW. There's a lot to consider. The benefits of going down by 20lbs on a rotating mass will be amazing, but at this point, I don't know what to think about going forward with the LWFW, RS bolts and pulley, but with that added risk.

One major reason for me buying the .1 is the supposed better liability of the overall powertrain design, and it's disheartening to see how the .2 design appears to be less reliable.

Alas, I have a good 10 months to make a decision. I'm starting to acquire my basic parts for the major...belt, fuel filter, plugs, fluids...
Since I live in the Bay Area, I have to luxury of having Sharkwerks do the work.