Antigravity

Hey InTgr8r, so the short answer here is no...certainly not a requirement....this is something we've touched on a few times but the short of it is that the existing profile is well within the batteries spec..

We have tested all of our Automotive Sized batteries in the our GT3RS a countless amount of times and what we wanted was actual and real long term data to make sure no flags were being thrown, and that no issues were occurring with the battery itself, and to make sure no issues with the Car occurred. With the different Amp Hours versions of the latest generation of the batteries with the Wire-less Jump-Start feature we have not had any flags at all nor any issues with just dropping in the batteries and going. We have had a few rather long drives in terms of long trips in miles, but mostly it has been in some 2 to 3 hour drives in the mountain roads. We also had it in down times to see how the batteries do in longer term draw-downs to measure the parasitic drains and storage abilities, which also allowed us to do a lot of heavy draw-down testing where we have the car in the garage and connect 2 or 4 of the 55 watt automobile lights directly to the battery so we could do a very fast draw down of the batteries energy while in the car and repeatedly test the RE-START feature on the Car/Battery. While driving monitoring all the data on our Battery Tracker, and the standard charging profile in the car is in the range of high 13v to 14.8 max. So that is all perfectly fine.

But this is why it might be also be an option to change to the lithium setting.

1- First our Lithium Battery can accept any charging profile that comes with any modern car. Nowadays all the modern cars have Intelligent Battery Sensors (IBS) on the Battery clamps on your Car. Its that plastic box on the Cables clamps. It measures voltage going to and from the battery and tells the ECU what is going on so the Car can either raise lower the Alternators output. So nowadays you can select which charging profile that works best if you have an AGM, FLA, or Lithium Battery in the car. In a Porsche its done in the PIWIS. Not all cars have the "lithium" setting at this point in time, but the Porsche's do.... Our battery can use any of them because they all stay within the range of what our battery can handle... which is any charging up to 15v... And cars are basically standardized to go up to a max of 14.8v on the highest end. So with that being said you don't have to change the profile of the charging in the PIWIS in general.

2- When you DO want to change to LITHIUM in PIWIS is if you are Racing or Tracking the Car... the reason is because when you do the Lithiumselection in PIWIS it lowers the charge profile in the car to 13.8v, which theoretically is a little less charge rate than the mid 14v range of the stock setting. And the reason for this is because when tracking or racing you are going to be having sustained HIGH RPMs spinning that motor and alternator very fast.... so in this circumstance, it would be best to lower the output of the alternator to 13.8v because the motor is spinning so fast most the time no need to keep the higher charge rate going all the time, which can cause a bit of drag on the motor, and also make for longer periods of a higher charge rate.

So, no real need to change the profile unless you are really Tracking... you likely wouldn't be achieving the higher continuous RPMS in some spirited street driving vs what you would while seriously tracking your car. So I say street driven don't worry about making the change.

But last I will say making the change won't harm anything either. It just lowers the overall charge rate... which will still keep the battery perfectly charged.

Christian Plyler

Question:

In the automotive batteries with the re-start system... once the battery has shut itself off... is using the re-start fob the ONLY way to turn the battery back on? Will a traditional, cable connected jump start attempt FAIL because the battery has disconnected itself internally? Or will the battery sense such an attempt and turn itself back on?

Antigravity

There is also a button directly on the battery to engage the restart feature as well. While connecting jumpers in the manner as you described would essentially provide the same affect there shouldn’t be a reason to ever have to take that course of action.

Christian Plyler

Understood. I just asked because my imagination envisioned a fictional future situation in which the car was at a shop for a while, and they didn't know about the re-start feature.

Christian Plyler

Also... what is the draw of the re-start fob receiver that is built into the battery? Oh... and what is the draw of your remote monitor gizmo?

Antigravity

Good questions....scott answering...

Yes they can Jump Start IF it is not asleep... because when it is asleep it will not show voltage at the clamps and most mondern Jump Starters will not jump start UNLESS they see voltage... But in general there should be no harm to the battery. For example if the Battery is just super sluggish because it was a smaller 24Ah model on a freezing morning and the RE-START capacity left was just struggling it wont' harm it to put it on a Jump Starter... because it would just be ASSISTING the battery. The starter motor Draws the voltage/current... the batteries don't PUSH the energy into electrical items... so a jump starter would assist rather than fry our battery. I like you idea on thinking in advance and what the mechanic might do.

There is no connection that is always ON between the keyfob and the battery. So there should not be any draw on the Keyfob ever... but its smaller battery which is replaceable can go dead if the button was actually pressed non stop while in the glove box and I assume will run dead from just sitting within 2 years. On the interior of the battery the receiver has a very low draw that won't adversely affect the batteries self-discharge to a degree that I'm concerned with, it would be probably .25A. While I can look at the documentation from the tests, I honestly don't look at that since I look at overall SELF-DISCHARGE of the complete as-sold Battery. That has tested out to be about 10-12 months before the 24Ah enters its OWN sleep mode without connection to any discharging items like the car itself. So the 30 and 40Ah would be even longer overall since they have significantly more capacity. But the final end testing for me is in the my own 2016 GT3 RS. I can get 6 weeks out of the 24Ah Battery in the Car with the draw of Cars system and NOT on any charger or driving at all.. . Car is stock without any accessories like Radar, Camera or USB chargers. just a stock 991. So that is my baseline. I have done it twice, and the 40Ah was on 7 weeks and still at 13.2v where as the 24Ah was at 12.7v. So that are great numbers.

But with that being said a 997 has more parasitic draw than a 991... so it assume the no-charge, storage time might be shorter. Ultimately its just about the parasitic draw level of any of the cars and they vary from manufaucturers and even car lines. But the 991 really have a very low parasitic draw once the car is asleep.

Any other questions please ask, or if I did not answer correctly or understand the question.

Christian Plyler

Scott,

I appreciate your time/effort in answering such trivial questions. I've got one of those minds that just wants to know stuff, you know? Anyway, I've submitted my order and payment.

Hmmm.... at 0.25 Ah, that would suck 6 Ah per day, and the 24 Ah unit would be completely discharged in four days. That can't be the right draw for the re-start receiver. And what about the remote monitor accessory (which I also ordered)?