brake setup questions - Track !
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
brake setup questions - Track !
Hi guys,
which brake setup do you recommend for a 997.2 RS for 6-8 trackdays p.a.
- pads (i thought pagid RS29)
- fluid (ATE200 blue good enough or SRF needed)
- stainless brake lines (worth it ? )
which brake setup do you recommend for a 997.2 RS for 6-8 trackdays p.a.
- pads (i thought pagid RS29)
- fluid (ATE200 blue good enough or SRF needed)
- stainless brake lines (worth it ? )
#2
Rennlist Member
pads your choice depending the feel you like. I like Race technologies Re10. Others like Endless MA45B or ME20... most folks here tend to use one of those, but it depends. Pagids aren't all that popular here with my track buddies.
Fluid: get better than Super blue. Endless RB650, Brembo HTC64T, SRF are all good choices
Stainless lines: only worth it if you need to replace your lines, they aren't fresh, or are cracking... otherwise no need really.
Fluid: get better than Super blue. Endless RB650, Brembo HTC64T, SRF are all good choices
Stainless lines: only worth it if you need to replace your lines, they aren't fresh, or are cracking... otherwise no need really.
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I like Performance Friction pads - they serve me well, I like that there is not much (if any) bedding necessary
I won't use SS brake lines - no way to see the condition of the rubber
WRT fluid - Wet boiling point is the important #, I use Brembo, Alcon is the same stuff, SRF is good but pricy...
Ray
I won't use SS brake lines - no way to see the condition of the rubber
WRT fluid - Wet boiling point is the important #, I use Brembo, Alcon is the same stuff, SRF is good but pricy...
Ray
#6
Rennlist Member
Lots of good choices for pads on the market. They all feel a little different. Usually a driver will adjust his braking to the characteristic of the pads and after using a few different models of pads a driver will have a personal preference. Some drivers prefer pads with strong initial bite while others may prefer less initial bite. Sometimes the decision for which pad model is made based on how it wears the rotors.
Around here Pagid RS29 and RS19 (both are Yellow color) are popular, as well as PFC. My personal preference is Ferodo DS1.11 for its very linear characteristic. All conditions equal one model will not produce significantly faster lap over another, just the feel.
SRF and OEM brake hoses(exact same brake hoses on GT3 Cup race cars).
Around here Pagid RS29 and RS19 (both are Yellow color) are popular, as well as PFC. My personal preference is Ferodo DS1.11 for its very linear characteristic. All conditions equal one model will not produce significantly faster lap over another, just the feel.
SRF and OEM brake hoses(exact same brake hoses on GT3 Cup race cars).
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
@tom
which pads (RS29, Ferodo 1.11 or PCF08) wear rotors best in your opinion?
which pads (RS29, Ferodo 1.11 or PCF08) wear rotors best in your opinion?
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you so far for comments, more experiences are welcome.
Other question suspension setup:
- camber around -2 degree front/rear
+ stock ride height + cup2 Michelin
useful for track?
Other question suspension setup:
- camber around -2 degree front/rear
+ stock ride height + cup2 Michelin
useful for track?
#9
Rennlist Member
#10
I use AP Racing J-Hook rotors, Ferodo DS1.11 pads and Endless Fluid. The DS1.11 pads have been very gentle on the rotors and to Tom's point are fairly linear in their braking performance, which is something people may not like, especially comparing to the stronger initial bite of PFC or Pagids. The Ferodo pads would last 8-10 track days with the front rotors lasting 25 or so and rear 35+. My car is driven pretty darn fast, so happy with the performance overall. For comparison the Endless ME20 pads had more initial bite but would destroy the rotors in 12-15 days.
Another item to consider is whether you will change the pads between track and street. Ferodo and PFC squeal a TON, while Endless does not. I know bedding them properly can reduce the squeal, but if driven cold on the street the pad layer on the rotor will get scrubbed off leading to squealing.
Another item to consider is whether you will change the pads between track and street. Ferodo and PFC squeal a TON, while Endless does not. I know bedding them properly can reduce the squeal, but if driven cold on the street the pad layer on the rotor will get scrubbed off leading to squealing.
#12
I've used PFC's, Endless, and DS1.11. All are good, top notch brake pads. DS111 has been the easiest on rotors in terms of little to no cracking.
For rotors, I currently use girodisc - no complaints. Don't think you can go wrong with them or the AP racing rotors.
Fluid - I like Endless brake fluid over SRF. But again you can't go wrong with either.
For rotors, I currently use girodisc - no complaints. Don't think you can go wrong with them or the AP racing rotors.
Fluid - I like Endless brake fluid over SRF. But again you can't go wrong with either.
#14
Brake fluid:
There are only 2 fluids I would choose from: Castrol SRF and Torque RT700. Both of have extremely high wet boiling points. As others have already said wet boiling point IS the only metric that matters. Dry boiling point is only relevant the first session/first day, after that, you're in wet boiling point territory. Castrol SRF is pricey but very much worth it, it's a little difficult to source which is my only annoyance with SRF.
Check out this guy's site where all the brake fluids characteristics are collated for easy digestion.
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ow=1&SF=4&ST=2
Note: Wow when did carbon lorraine come out with this amazing fluid...gotta try this next!
Brake Pads:
Call me crazy but I'm a huge hawk brake pad fan. I'm not sure why other brake pad companies aren't as transparent about their brake pad characteristics, but as Wet Boiling Point is the metric that all brake fluids should be judged by, mU and Temp are the only relevant metrics when it comes to brake pads. The relationship of the mU vs temperature as depicted in a graph, tells you the characteristic of how the brake pad behaves.
I primarily use the Hawk DTC 60 as it has a very wide temperature envelope so it can be driven on the street, but has an extremely high temperature tolerance with a wide peak performance envelope. Where the pagid RS29 gives up, the DTC is still just getting warmed up.
Brake Lines:
Gotta go with braided lines. Consistent brake pressure is the most vital thing, no point of having fancy brakes if the brake lines fail. As far as replacement, they should be considered a wear item, inspected and replaced periodically.
There are only 2 fluids I would choose from: Castrol SRF and Torque RT700. Both of have extremely high wet boiling points. As others have already said wet boiling point IS the only metric that matters. Dry boiling point is only relevant the first session/first day, after that, you're in wet boiling point territory. Castrol SRF is pricey but very much worth it, it's a little difficult to source which is my only annoyance with SRF.
Check out this guy's site where all the brake fluids characteristics are collated for easy digestion.
https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-flu...ow=1&SF=4&ST=2
Note: Wow when did carbon lorraine come out with this amazing fluid...gotta try this next!
Brake Pads:
Call me crazy but I'm a huge hawk brake pad fan. I'm not sure why other brake pad companies aren't as transparent about their brake pad characteristics, but as Wet Boiling Point is the metric that all brake fluids should be judged by, mU and Temp are the only relevant metrics when it comes to brake pads. The relationship of the mU vs temperature as depicted in a graph, tells you the characteristic of how the brake pad behaves.
I primarily use the Hawk DTC 60 as it has a very wide temperature envelope so it can be driven on the street, but has an extremely high temperature tolerance with a wide peak performance envelope. Where the pagid RS29 gives up, the DTC is still just getting warmed up.
Brake Lines:
Gotta go with braided lines. Consistent brake pressure is the most vital thing, no point of having fancy brakes if the brake lines fail. As far as replacement, they should be considered a wear item, inspected and replaced periodically.
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I also like the DTC 60. I've tried the DTC 70 but it's a bit too aggressive for my taste. I find the DTC 60 easier to modulate. I get zero squeal from these pads with StopTech slotted rotors once the pads are bedded in.