.2 RS Suspension questions
#1
Drifting
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Gent's
I have some suspension questions. I hope I can pull this off without causing a ruckus. Given that my car has 13K for miles and I'm guessing light-medium track use early in it's life here are my questions:
-At roughly what mileage does the stock suspension start to lose some of it's usefulness? I'm sure longer than 13K but give me an idea of when most of you replaced?
-When replacing how many of you replaced with stock components or switched to an aftermarket system (Tractive,Damptronic etc.) capable of continuing the use of Porsches electronic damping
-When replacing how many of you opted to move away from an electronically damped system to a manually damped system (Ohlins,JRZ,KW).
Car will still be a 70/30 split with 70% of the usage being road use. At this point I don't feel a whole lot of difference in my car now between sport and non sport. Any and all replies welcome and thanks in advance...
I have some suspension questions. I hope I can pull this off without causing a ruckus. Given that my car has 13K for miles and I'm guessing light-medium track use early in it's life here are my questions:
-At roughly what mileage does the stock suspension start to lose some of it's usefulness? I'm sure longer than 13K but give me an idea of when most of you replaced?
-When replacing how many of you replaced with stock components or switched to an aftermarket system (Tractive,Damptronic etc.) capable of continuing the use of Porsches electronic damping
-When replacing how many of you opted to move away from an electronically damped system to a manually damped system (Ohlins,JRZ,KW).
Car will still be a 70/30 split with 70% of the usage being road use. At this point I don't feel a whole lot of difference in my car now between sport and non sport. Any and all replies welcome and thanks in advance...
Last edited by Mr. Adair; 01-08-2018 at 12:56 AM.
#2
Burning Brakes
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Well, I'm not a track/performance enthusiast and my '11RS just turned 12k on the meter. I do notice a difference between sport and non-suport in ride. Sorry to say but doubt I will track the car and will take heat for this as it was "dialed" for the track by the previous owner but never been on the track. Compared with the latest, it's now a bit of a slowpoke. I would suggest you track your car to become familiar with its (and your) limits before getting deep into suspension mods. Once you have done that, then report on how the car performed/handled. Then, you will get feedback from the experts on how to improve for better performance. OR, have a track enthusiast drive your car on the track with you as a ride along and get their opinion! BTW I DO dive my RS at every opportunity......... recently SF - LA and back.....what a blast!!
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#3
Agent Orange
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Under normal circumstances and on decent roads you should get at least 60K miles out of the dampers before starting to think about a rebuild. And when it's time to do mine, that's what I will do - have them rebuilt. The car finished 13th overall at the 24H of the Nurburging on the stock suspension. That's good enough for me.
#4
Drifting
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Well, I'm not a track/performance enthusiast and my '11RS just turned 12k on the meter. I do notice a difference between sport and non-suport in ride. Sorry to say but doubt I will track the car and will take heat for this as it was "dialed" for the track by the previous owner but never been on the track. Compared with the latest, it's now a bit of a slowpoke. I would suggest you track your car to become familiar with its (and your) limits before getting deep into suspension mods. Once you have done that, then report on how the car performed/handled. Then, you will get feedback from the experts on how to improve for better performance. OR, have a track enthusiast drive your car on the track with you as a ride along and get their opinion! BTW I DO dive my RS at every opportunity......... recently SF - LA and back.....what a blast!! ![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#5
Drifting
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Under normal circumstances and on decent roads you should get at least 60K miles out of the dampers before starting to think about a rebuild. And when it's time to do mine, that's what I will do - have them rebuilt. The car finished 13th overall at the 24H of the Nurburging on the stock suspension. That's good enough for me.
#6
Agent Orange
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Not enough interest to make it financially feasible unfortunately. I had to pay out of pocket for an OEM set of 4.0 end plates in order to have the molds made. That's $3500. For two pieces of plastic, less than a foot long... So I decided to use that money toward the re-gearing of my 993 transmission instead.
Priorities...![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Priorities...
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#7
Drifting
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Not enough interest to make it financially feasible unfortunately. I had to pay out of pocket for an OEM set of 4.0 end plates in order to have the molds made. That's $3500. For two pieces of plastic, less than a foot long... So I decided to use that money toward the re-gearing of my 993 transmission instead.
Priorities...![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Priorities...
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
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#8
GT3 player par excellence
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stock is great
if you must spend the $, go with ohlin TTX
if you must spend the $, go with ohlin TTX
#9
Rennlist Member
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I've changed all suspension bits to Porsche motorsport parts. Dampers I had switched to JRZ RS pro DA's, and they were nice. Not leaving good enough alone I sold them to go to Tractive DDA.
#10
Drifting
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Thanks Gent's. As I said, I have a lot to learn. I read a lot and like to ask questions on here because there is nowhere better to quickly gain knowledge from experienced RS owners. I need to find a local shop/tuner here in Minneapolis.
#11
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Stock should last, that said I had a damper go out after 20k miles, with minimal track time. It started leaking and PASM started failing.
If aftermarket, there are pros and cons to everything. Me, I like simple analog, so 2 way Ohlins TTX. The improvement on the street and on track, with much heavier spring rates is pretty substantial. The suspension is firm but super-supple. The .2 and 40 were much improved over the .1 cars however. But, you really can't or shouldn't do these changes w/o changing the rest of the suspension to be more solid. Its sort of an all or nothing or you're only getting part of the benefit of uprated dampers.
The way I think about it: keep it stock, or go all in. 1/2 way really is 1/2 way.
If aftermarket, there are pros and cons to everything. Me, I like simple analog, so 2 way Ohlins TTX. The improvement on the street and on track, with much heavier spring rates is pretty substantial. The suspension is firm but super-supple. The .2 and 40 were much improved over the .1 cars however. But, you really can't or shouldn't do these changes w/o changing the rest of the suspension to be more solid. Its sort of an all or nothing or you're only getting part of the benefit of uprated dampers.
The way I think about it: keep it stock, or go all in. 1/2 way really is 1/2 way.
#12
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Assuming you might be tempted by going the full hog, I believe Ohlins have an in car electronic control unit available for the TTX that one can use to switch damper modes (say sport to track) that you can configure to match what you want. If going aftermarket though, having a good shop that is well used to working with the dampers is probably more important than the brand of damper. At a high level, motorsport grade dampers all more or less cost similar amounts and the trick is in the skill of the person setting them up. When the OEM bits go on mine, I have to say I genuinely would be in a bit of a spot whether to go TTX or tractive as I have to admit I quite like the idea of the more 'active' units and the DSC unit has definitely improved the stock PASM ones so the improvement on much higher quality dampers should be even more obvious.
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Stock should last, that said I had a damper go out after 20k miles, with minimal track time. It started leaking and PASM started failing.
If aftermarket, there are pros and cons to everything. Me, I like simple analog, so 2 way Ohlins TTX. The improvement on the street and on track, with much heavier spring rates is pretty substantial. The suspension is firm but super-supple. The .2 and 40 were much improved over the .1 cars however. But, you really can't or shouldn't do these changes w/o changing the rest of the suspension to be more solid. Its sort of an all or nothing or you're only getting part of the benefit of uprated dampers.
The way I think about it: keep it stock, or go all in. 1/2 way really is 1/2 way.
If aftermarket, there are pros and cons to everything. Me, I like simple analog, so 2 way Ohlins TTX. The improvement on the street and on track, with much heavier spring rates is pretty substantial. The suspension is firm but super-supple. The .2 and 40 were much improved over the .1 cars however. But, you really can't or shouldn't do these changes w/o changing the rest of the suspension to be more solid. Its sort of an all or nothing or you're only getting part of the benefit of uprated dampers.
The way I think about it: keep it stock, or go all in. 1/2 way really is 1/2 way.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by Mr. Adair; 01-08-2018 at 04:51 PM.
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Assuming you might be tempted by going the full hog, I believe Ohlins have an in car electronic control unit available for the TTX that one can use to switch damper modes (say sport to track) that you can configure to match what you want. If going aftermarket though, having a good shop that is well used to working with the dampers is probably more important than the brand of damper. At a high level, motorsport grade dampers all more or less cost similar amounts and the trick is in the skill of the person setting them up. When the OEM bits go on mine, I have to say I genuinely would be in a bit of a spot whether to go TTX or tractive as I have to admit I quite like the idea of the more 'active' units and the DSC unit has definitely improved the stock PASM ones so the improvement on much higher quality dampers should be even more obvious.
#15
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I am sure the electronic systems out now are excellent. For me, I just like to know when an input is ME vs. THE CAR. For example, when I first drove a 991GT car on track, I swear I was going to spin it, the rear steer felt WEIRD, needed to get used to it. But that's the sort of inputs that I like to understand are going on. When you turn a ****, it's static. Until you turn another ****. My head has enough variables to think about already :-)
Most of us aren't professional drivers, so for me, what I want is a car that feels stable and predictable, because that lets me be faster.
Do you guys have a link to the Ohlins active thing?
Thanks
Most of us aren't professional drivers, so for me, what I want is a car that feels stable and predictable, because that lets me be faster.
Do you guys have a link to the Ohlins active thing?
Thanks