ngng

Making notes for those who might tackle this in the future. Thanks to Top@TPC for answering a bunch of my questions.

here's the pump.


the plan was to model, prototype, then machine a mount of of 6061. here's the initial mounting plate based off of Tom's install:


after I slept on this, I revisited. I could just machine 3 ribs and weld them to a base plate. no need for the circular mount.


here's the designed I settled on. a rib with a pilot hole drilled on the face and a larger countersunk hole on the back


moving to the prototype phase i removed a bunch of material to speed up the 3d printing process. this resulted in about 3 hours of time saved. the test fit was perfect. a little too perfect. need to expand all holes by 0.5mm

gt2-josh

Outstanding! Great contribution to others considering this mod. I really need to see your car Best Josh

bmwtye

I'll add this to your thread as this will help others.

Got these from HRG

PhillyGT3

Please excuse my ignorance but what is the point of this modification?

Spyerx

Possibly a reduction in weight
Remove the load on the engine due to the PS Pump
Simplicity due to removing all the lines that require a motor drop if there is an issue with one
More importantly, get rid of the fire hazard the Pentosin is at the rear of the motor.

Ngng - my shop has done a bunch of these, they fab the lines/connections. They mount the pumps for street cars up next to the battery and run everything super tight and neat. Requires a hole for the cap of the reservoir cut in the batter panel, but otherwise it’s super flush and clean, and allows use of the trunk.

I probably do this at some point...

bmwtye

Look at my build thread as I'm doing this however there's a reason I didnt have your shop do it. I will email you

ngng

my high pressure pump is leaking and I have no desire to drop the motor to replace it. among other things

ngng

who is your shop! IIRC bmwtye is planning on mounting up top too. where do they run the lines? I was planning on DIY and making the models/parts list avail for others



can you PM me, curious what you are thinking

ngng

is HRG = hergesheimer?

bmwtye

Yes, and fwiw you can also get them from Rebel Racing in either orange or gray anodized for $75 bucks.

jimk04

I got the rebel rsr unions for the rack.
if mounting the pump up high next to the battery, I guess you don't have room for the additional expansion bottle.? Or if you do it won't be higher...so it won't drain back.?

ngng

cool. been in touch with him. he includes o-rings too, which is nice.

bmwtye

Here are the O-ring part numbers:
999-230-542-40
999-230-543-40

Here is the basic wiring:

red (with inline 80amp fuse) - battery +12V
brown - ground
black - ignition +12V (i.e., only runs when key is on)
blue/white - alternator dash light (to turn it off if the key is on but car not running)
brown/white - not required (for diagnostics)

For the Blue/White wires there's no alternator dash light on a 997 street car being almost everything is on the CAN bus. Some people tap this wire into ABS, but I wouldn't touch the ABS. Its easier just to connect the Blue/White + Black to ignition on.

ngng

Sweet, thanks. my cables were cut, so this is helpful.

I am open to suggestions for wiring. Apparently there is a fused power source on the passenger side. I need to confirm.

Does the pump come with a built in relay? Can I just run fused 12V off the battery then the blue/white to a switched 12V (I've already got one run into the trunk). If so, this is even easier... My original plan was to run two SPDT relays (45A ea) to feed the red power cable with my switched 12v signal.

bmwtye

Yes the wiring has an inline 80 amp fuse, so you could run the red wire to the battery.