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remove gear box from engine

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Old 08-27-2017, 01:56 PM
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yelcab
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Default remove gear box from engine

This is my first time doing a clutch on a 2007 GT3. I am attempting to do this without removing the engine, just the gear box. Everything is disconnected but I am having a hard time trying to pry the gearbox away from the engine. It is only about 1/4 inch separated.

The triangle bracket at the top of the gearbox has been removed.

Is there a requirement to separate the throw out bearing ?

Or just a matter of prying harder?
Old 08-27-2017, 02:48 PM
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32krazy!
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did you remove the clutch fork rod from inside the bellhousing? its accesed from the vent tube on the d/s of the trans. remove the vent tube remove the 10mm bolt and bracket remove the black plug and then screw a 6mm bolt into the cap of the fork rod and pull it out
Old 08-27-2017, 03:58 PM
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yelcab
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
did you remove the clutch fork rod from inside the bellhousing? its accesed from the vent tube on the d/s of the trans. remove the vent tube remove the 10mm bolt and bracket remove the black plug and then screw a 6mm bolt into the cap of the fork rod and pull it out
Thanks. It is like the old G50 transmission on 1989 Carrera then. I will get to that.
Old 08-27-2017, 05:07 PM
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Sounds like a smart move to me. According to the previous owner of my car, the dealer dropped the gear box to replace the leaking RMS.

On other vehicles, I have removed engines and sometimes a transmission. It was always much easier to keep the engine in place. Don't need to mess with coolant, oil lines, electronics and other systems not associated with the transmission.

Is there a reason why we hear so often about dropping the engine for clutch work and replacing the RMS?
Old 08-28-2017, 01:21 AM
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I'm not sure you hear much about dropping engine for clutch work and RMS. Usually what you see is dropping engine for other work and doing clutch and RMS while in there.
Dropping the engine sucks and is not inexpensive, so while doing it it's proactive maintenance time.
Old 08-28-2017, 01:58 AM
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Have gone through multiple clutches but rarely dropped the engine because of. Even RMS can be repaired with engine in place let alone just a clutch job...
Old 08-28-2017, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by grizfish
Sounds like a smart move to me. According to the previous owner of my car, the dealer dropped the gear box to replace the leaking RMS.

On other vehicles, I have removed engines and sometimes a transmission. It was always much easier to keep the engine in place. Don't need to mess with coolant, oil lines, electronics and other systems not associated with the transmission.

Is there a reason why we hear so often about dropping the engine for clutch work and replacing the RMS?
its not an easy job to get the clutch fork lined up so that the fork rod can be installed and not drop any needle bearings housed in the caps. after you have dropped the trans a few times you learn a few shortcuts to make it easier but in reality its maybe 2-3 hrs more work to drop the driveline as a whole and makes it infinity easier to reinstall everything. i have done it both ways more times than i care to admit and both ways suck!
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:44 AM
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yelcab
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Well the gear box is down and out now. I can see that the cross shaft will be real fun on the way back in. I have done G50 mating on the ground but never in a car. Please pass along any tricks to make this easier. I am planning on taping the fork to the engine side and mating the gear box to that, then somehow lining up the holes for the cross shaft to come in. All with mirrors.

You know, next time the whole engine comes out. I already have had to drain the coolant and the oil so what is left?
Old 08-28-2017, 10:11 PM
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Disconnect Fuel lines, Air Con lines, wiring harnesses, oil lines, coolant lines (don't forget the short one by the coolant reservoir), power steering lines, motor mounts, remove the airbox, and maybe I forgot something because this is all from memory. We do this two-three times per week. In fact today we were reinstalling one of our 4.15L Mezger engines.

Anyone feel free to PM or email me if you have any questions or if you're stuck with anything. MJ@mckengineering.us
Old 08-29-2017, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by MJSpeed
Disconnect Fuel lines, Air Con lines, wiring harnesses, oil lines, coolant lines (don't forget the short one by the coolant reservoir), power steering lines, motor mounts, remove the airbox, and maybe I forgot something because this is all from memory. We do this two-three times per week. In fact today we were reinstalling one of our 4.15L Mezger engines.

Anyone feel free to PM or email me if you have any questions or if you're stuck with anything. MJ@mckengineering.us
much easier to simply remove the a/c compressor from the motor 3 bolts and lay it over the back of the car with the lines still attached. no need to recharge the system this way
Old 08-29-2017, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
much easier to simply remove the a/c compressor from the motor 3 bolts and lay it over the back of the car with the lines still attached. no need to recharge the system this way
And that last bolt is one worthy of a few four letter words.
Old 08-29-2017, 02:18 PM
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Fully, just pulled the motor & tranny last week. Sequencing is important, but the whole thing is quite easy & pain free.

Ray
Old 08-29-2017, 04:58 PM
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yelcab i sent you my cell feel free to call. i have some tips that will make your life much easier reinstalling the trans. i can have mine in the car in about 1 to 1.5 hr ready to fire
Old 08-29-2017, 06:17 PM
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Any one care to post torque specs?
Old 08-29-2017, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
much easier to simply remove the a/c compressor from the motor 3 bolts and lay it over the back of the car with the lines still attached. no need to recharge the system this way
I meant remove the lines with the compressor.


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