Steve

I will call you tomorrow....

 

Torque specs for what ?

 

Anything related to dropping the gearbox or engine would be cool.


In general it would be nice to have a sticky with a bunch of torque specs. Seems like that stuff is top secret in the Porsche world.

 

It used to be Porsche published those specs in a handy little booklet but they are no longer making those. Specs can be found in factory manuals. Or, if all else fails, you find the maximum allowed specs for the fasteners according to their ratings and follow those.

You also have to develop enough feel and experience to know when enough is enough.

 

Jake raby owner of flat 6 innovations has published about 3 books detailing the torque specs of just about everything on the 997/997 platform

 

I used a magnetic pick up tool through slave cylinder opening to move the fork around while installing the shaft.

To avoid dropping the shaft bearings during shaft installation: thread a longish bolt with a nut into the shaft that has both bearings in place. Then use the nut to hold the driver side bearing in place so it can fall off the shaft. Then just push the shaft in place while guiding the fork with the magnetic tool. The other bearing cant fall as long as you dont pull the shaft outwards but just keep pushing it in lightly.

Not sure if that makes any sense but it works.. have done clutch job couple of times in my garage with just jack stands.

 

Also replace the small bolt holding the clip that keeps the plastic cap in place with a stud and nut. Its much easier to place the clip on a stud and then just thread the nut in. Its also important that the plastic cap is tapped properly in place as it keeps the shaft not moving laterally.

 

if you try to install the rod with both caps in place and the fork isnt lined up perfectly it wont go thru and you will drive yourself crazy trying to line everything up. easier to install the far cap while the trans is out into the bellhousing . fill it with grease and the bearings wont move. the rod is beveled so when your installing this it will move the fork into place then it will slide into the bearing cap
to easy to drop the nut. tape the iside of the socket with painters tape and push the bolt into the tape so it holds the bolt. use a rubber oring on the backside of the bolt against the locking tab so the bolt and tab stay together. long extension and socket to guide it into place and thread the bolt

 

So install the far cap full of grease into the far hole first.
Tape the fork to the engine side, slide the gear box in and remove the tape
Use a magnetic tool to move the fork around a bit and line up the holes.
Slide the cross shaft in place, which will line up the far side hole and the shaft will slide into the bearing cup already at the far side.

Well, that seems doable but not fun.

 

to easy to drop the nut. tape the iside of the socket with painters tape and push the bolt into the tape so it holds the bolt. use a rubber oring on the backside of the bolt against the locking tab so the bolt and tab stay together. long extension and socket to guide it into place and thread the bolt

I also used piece of tape to hold the nut in the socket. I didnt use normal m6 nut though but longer extension nut. That wont tilt inside the socket so its much easier to get the thread started.

I used the magnetic tool to place the clip onto the stud to avoid dropping it.

 

Thanks, and those are all good tips. The only debate is... whether to put the far end cap full of grease inside the gearbox before the install, or put that cap on the end of the shaft after the gear box is in place. You have to commit to one method or the other.

It seems too easy for the end of the shaft to push one of the little bearings to move out of place and then the gear box has to come back out....

You know, I have always admired Porsche for their German engineering prowess. In this very specific case, it seems to me there could have been a better way. That cross shaft design came from the 1987 G50 gearbox and for 30 years they did not find a better solution?

 

if you pack that cap full of grease and slide the rod into it and install the cap in the bellhousing you wont lose any bearings. if you use the rod with the cap and only get it halfway in and are unable to line up the fork the cap will fall off when you try to pull the rod back out. also if the d/s of the fork isnt perfectly lined up the cap is flat with no bevel and it wont go thru. you will wreck your arms trying to get it lined up. like i said i have some tips for the install. i have dropped my trans no less than 6 times oin the last 4 -5 months. i can do it less than 5 hrs start to finish now. same for the install

 

In the end, 32Krazy convinced me to install the far end cap full of grease and bearings first, then I used a nylon string to tie the fork in place.

I slid the gear box home to about an inch away, then pulled the string out before pushing the gear box totally in place.

I used a sharp point pick to push against th pin hole in the fork engagement cup, moved that around until the fork and the holes are lined up.

Pushed the cross shaft in, tapped it in place.

Install the cup, the braket and the small bolt.

Done.

 

im glad to see you were successful!! in the end its not so bad when you know the tricks. next time try the entire trans / motor combo even easier!