Rats. Another puddle
05-18-2017, 06:24 PM
#1
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Rats. Another puddle
Only this time it's coolant. Noticed it about 10 minutes after a drive today, in time to put a tray under the car. It seems to have stopped now (four hours later). Lost about 8 fluid ounces.
Question, if it was overfilled would it leak out under pressure? Another question, if the coolant tank in the engine bay is leaking wouldn't it still be dripping out? Assuming of course the leak is not on top. If it's this slow of a leak do I dare drive to my indy 1.5 miles away? Oh, no warning lights, yet.
TIA
Question, if it was overfilled would it leak out under pressure? Another question, if the coolant tank in the engine bay is leaking wouldn't it still be dripping out? Assuming of course the leak is not on top. If it's this slow of a leak do I dare drive to my indy 1.5 miles away? Oh, no warning lights, yet.
TIA
05-18-2017, 06:39 PM
#2
Coolant overflow tank cracks are common. They tend to leak only when hot or pressurized.
It's safe to top off the coolant with distilled water and drive to your indy. You can find it at your grocery store for under $1 for a gallon. Do not use tap water though.
It's safe to top off the coolant with distilled water and drive to your indy. You can find it at your grocery store for under $1 for a gallon. Do not use tap water though.
05-18-2017, 08:30 PM
#3
That sounds like a pinhole leak or something really small. When you turn off the engine the coolant stops circulating and dissipating heat. As a result the coolant heats up and that is probably when there is the greatest pressure in the system and would explain intermittent leaks. I had one once and I couldn't figure out why I kept smelling coolant shortly after parking. A hose off of the coolant tank had a leak that looked like a sipder web and liquid never made it to the floor.
05-19-2017, 02:35 AM
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That sounds like a pinhole leak or something really small. When you turn off the engine the coolant stops circulating and dissipating heat. As a result the coolant heats up and that is probably when there is the greatest pressure in the system and would explain intermittent leaks. I had one once and I couldn't figure out why I kept smelling coolant shortly after parking. A hose off of the coolant tank had a leak that looked like a sipder web and liquid never made it to the floor.
I imagine finding the leaking hose you had probably required about as much labor as replacing the tank, so I'm braced.
Another question, for the crowd at large. I'm not the original owner. The car (997.1, 3.6L) has about 55,000 miles on it. I understand the water pumps are troublesome. The maintenance/repair history I have for the car does not show that the water pump has been replaced. Should I just bite the bullet and have it replaced now? All opinions welcomed.
And a shout out to semicycler about using distilled water and not tap water, but I learned that lesson in HS auto shop class way too many years ago. Still, that's advice worth remembering.
05-19-2017, 09:07 AM
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Knowing where the puddle is would help. More toward the rear of the engine is probably the water pump and more toward the left side, the coolant tank. Look under the car to determine the source. If it's the water pump, you should be able to see the coolant path and the point of origin. At 55,000 miles though, you're right in the water pump failure window of 45,000-60,000 miles. My recommendation is that they be preventatively replaced in the 45,000-50,000 mile range. That way they're done on your timetable, as a DIY or at your shop of choice instead out somewhere where the failure occured, and you can source the parts for a reasonable price in advance, instead of paying too dollar for emergency parts, but back to the water pump.
What usually happens is the bearing wears and gets play in it, then the tension of the belt ***** it and the bearing seal no longer works so coolant leaks out the bearing fitting or the weep hole. Driving it once it has started leaking is a bad idea because of the cocked impeller shaft. If the pump is original with a plastic impeller, it will start contacting the engine block when it spins, which will either start filing down the plastic impeller fins (not bad) but you also run the risk of a chunk of impeller fin breaking off and traveling through the cooling system. There are some very small passageways in which the coolant circulates and if that piece gets lodged in one of those, it will restrict flow and make hot spots in the engine that could result in a cracked head, scored bore, or other maladies. If the water pump has been replaced with one that has a metal impeller, the cocked shaft now turns the water pump into a milling machine to your engine block, damaging the shape of the impeller cavity which prevents proper coolant flow even after the pump is replaced - this is why a pump with a metal impeller should NEVER be installed.
If the leak is a cracked coolant tank, then top up with distilled water and drive it to the mechanic - if it's the water pump, have it towed.
What usually happens is the bearing wears and gets play in it, then the tension of the belt ***** it and the bearing seal no longer works so coolant leaks out the bearing fitting or the weep hole. Driving it once it has started leaking is a bad idea because of the cocked impeller shaft. If the pump is original with a plastic impeller, it will start contacting the engine block when it spins, which will either start filing down the plastic impeller fins (not bad) but you also run the risk of a chunk of impeller fin breaking off and traveling through the cooling system. There are some very small passageways in which the coolant circulates and if that piece gets lodged in one of those, it will restrict flow and make hot spots in the engine that could result in a cracked head, scored bore, or other maladies. If the water pump has been replaced with one that has a metal impeller, the cocked shaft now turns the water pump into a milling machine to your engine block, damaging the shape of the impeller cavity which prevents proper coolant flow even after the pump is replaced - this is why a pump with a metal impeller should NEVER be installed.
If the leak is a cracked coolant tank, then top up with distilled water and drive it to the mechanic - if it's the water pump, have it towed.
05-21-2017, 07:11 PM
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Knowing where the puddle is would help. More toward the rear of the engine is probably the water pump and more toward the left side, the coolant tank. Look under the car to determine the source. If it's the water pump, you should be able to see the coolant path and the point of origin. At 55,000 miles though, you're right in the water pump failure window of 45,000-60,000 miles. My recommendation is that they be preventatively replaced in the 45,000-50,000 mile range. That way they're done on your timetable, as a DIY or at your shop of choice instead out somewhere where the failure occured, and you can source the parts for a reasonable price in advance, instead of paying too dollar for emergency parts, but back to the water pump.