judd79

oh so those vents are aftermarket. I like it, plus the black on the rear mud guards. Are those aftermarket as well? I never thought i would be selling the R8 but for i've always wanted a porche, I'm always so scared that someone will ding my car or something. If anyones got the time to take me under their wing. I'm always open to learning.

Edgy01

Just remember that it still thinks it's a $100,000 so maintenance, when needed, may be higher that other cars. Personally, however, I have found my car to be amazingly free of issues, despite having over 104,000 miles on it now

Petza914

The black area in front of the rear wheels are called stone guards because where the fenders flare out that area of the car is subject to rocks coming down the side from the front wheels. From the factory these would have been clear but a lot of us (like me) have replaced the clear with black as we like that more classic look better. Also, the clear ones tend to yellow after a few years and people have damaged the clear coat on their paint trying to remove them (best way is to work very slowly, with steam). I actually just covered my clear ones with black CF look vinyl which doubles the protection and doesn't risk the damage to the clear coat.

Looking at these photos on a larger screen tonight a couple other things look odd to me.
In photos 1 & 22, either the hood isn't latched all the way or there's something amiss with the way the front of the hood is aligning with the bumper - the gap is too large.
Also, in photo 11, the car is clearly running by the looks of the gauges - coolant temp is normal with the needle straight up at 175 (but that's not a real gauge - it's an idiot light that looks like a guage as it always reads that temp after a few minutes unless it's excessively overheating and then it will go past 175). The oil temp gauge is the one to watch and that one is showing about 175 also. Idle is right at about, but what's odd is the oil pressure (far right) is only at 1 bar. Fully warmed up on my car with oil temp at the 200-220 range, even at idle, my oil pressure is 2.5 bar and as soon as the engine revs above 2,000 rpm, it pegs at 5 and stays there. The only time I've seen it lower than that while driving is when it was a super hot summer day and I was pushing the car in the mountains - oil temp got to 225 and oil pressure was closer to 4, but even then wasn't at 1 bar when idling. Maybe they have a very lightweight oil in the car like a 5W/30 or it might be low on oil pressure, which wouldn't be good.
The lap timer atop the center of the dashboard means the car has the Sport Chrono package, but I can't tell whether in the bottom row of console buttons if the 3rd button from the left says "Sport" on it or not. Left button should be the picture of a spoiler which will manually raise and lower the rear spoiler. Next to that is the one with the dampener with changes the PASM suspension between Normal & Sport, and next to that in a sport chrono car should be the sport button and that option is listed on the vehicle options sheet that Hula ran for you, so maybe it's fine and that's what the button says. The far right button is PSM (Porsche Stability Management).

If it looks like the right car for you, have a detailed PPI done and then decide, but with the lower oil pressure, I would add to the normal PPI, dropping the oil pan and looking for bore scoring in the bottom of the cylinders, particularly #s 3 & 6. Also, get a print out of the DME Report which will show you any overrevs the engine may have seen and how long ago they occurred.