Notices
997 Forum 2005-2012
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

997.1 C2S hot start slow crank finally resolved

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-20-2017, 03:00 PM
  #1  
spaghetto
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
spaghetto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 51
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default 997.1 C2S hot start slow crank finally resolved

Hello Rennlist,

This is my first post here. I have been reading a lot and learning about my car from all of you.

I picked up my 05 C2S (my first Porsche ) in November and have been chasing my hot start issue for the last couple of months.

I tried the starter cable, starter, and new battery with no success.

I finally replaced the +battery cable and the current bolt in the power distributor and my car now starts perfectly every time.
997-610-916-00 (current bolt repair kit)
997-612-908-01 (cable loom repair kit)

Now to move on to my PASM Failure that I got after 2 months with brand new b16 damptronics. Any thoughts on this?

Here is the old current bolt. The +batt cable had just as much corrosion around the crimped connection.

Old 04-20-2017, 04:07 PM
  #2  
Devil Boy
Racer
 
Devil Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Phoenix East Valley
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Where is this located on the car?
Old 04-20-2017, 04:23 PM
  #3  
spaghetto
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
spaghetto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 51
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Devil Boy
Where is this located on the car?
this is the bolt in the power distributor on the inside of the firewall that the +battery cable connects to. the new bolt is threaded on both ends and shorter. The new cable is held on with a nut rather than the quick disconnect.

It was a little difficult to get the distributor down past what I assume is the heater box into the passenger footwell with the longer original bolt sticking out. If you were to replace this bolt, I would recommend cutting off as much of the non threaded end of the original bolt as possible before trying to pull down the power distributor.

Hope that makes sense.

I should also note that the two part numbers that I listed must be bought together. If you just buy one, then you will not be able to connect your positive battery cable to the power distributor.
Old 04-20-2017, 04:35 PM
  #4  
Devil Boy
Racer
 
Devil Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Phoenix East Valley
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Ok thanks, it's something to inspect for next time I'm in there.
Old 04-20-2017, 06:27 PM
  #5  
RaidersR1
Racer
 
RaidersR1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Brentwood
Posts: 430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I had the same issue and replaced my battery cable and problem solved. Too bad you replaced all that other stuff, but at least those are things you don't have to worry about.
Old 04-20-2017, 07:09 PM
  #6  
spaghetto
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
spaghetto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 51
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by RaidersR1
I had the same issue and replaced my battery cable and problem solved. Too bad you replaced all that other stuff, but at least those are things you don't have to worry about.
definitely a bummer, but it doesn't hurt to put new parts on. Just a little quality time with the car and a few hundred bucks.
Old 04-20-2017, 07:14 PM
  #7  
alan111
Instructor
 
alan111's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 222
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

I had the same hot start issue, but replaced my battery and never had the problem again. Also, my lazy start was fixed and now it starts very fast.
Old 04-24-2017, 05:55 PM
  #8  
wem
AutoX
 
wem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: santa cruz
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for this Spaghetto. I was at my wit's end. When I pulled the cable off the in-situ power distributor bolt, it was full of rust. This might be the solution.

I brushed the rust off and replaced the cable via the quick release, but it's still slow to start. The next step is to inspect/replace the power distributor cable and bolt.

I'd love to inspect it first. How do you get the power distributor down into the footwell? Is there a way to do it without cutting the bolt? Do the cables attached to the distributor have enough slack for me to pull it down there?

Do you have any pointers or know of a how-to doc you can recommend?

Background: High mile (140k) 06 997 S cab and I just replaced the starter, aos and the b+ cable from the alternator. Thanks Equinox and Yvesvidal! Several plastic connectors and hoses were corroded and cracked that I didn't anticipate (oil filler tube, brake vacuum line, a connector for aos hoses) so it took forever to complete the job. After all that, it still has the hot starting/slow cranking issue and I had to be towed home from my second outing. I was ready to throw in the towel and make an appointment at the dealer when I ran across this post.
Old 04-25-2017, 03:17 PM
  #9  
wem
AutoX
 
wem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: santa cruz
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

In case anyone is interested, I'll attempt to upload the service bulletin for this, issued in June 2014. First time embedding pics...




service bulletin part 1



service bulletin part 2
Old 04-25-2017, 05:43 PM
  #10  
Ynot
Three Wheelin'
 
Ynot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Nice, my 997 is slow to start to, it starts every time but a bit slower than it should. I haven't done much except replace the batter, might replaced the starter cable and bolt this summer. Thanks for the thread, very informative.
Old 04-25-2017, 10:38 PM
  #11  
spaghetto
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
spaghetto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 51
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by wem
Thanks for this Spaghetto. I was at my wit's end. When I pulled the cable off the in-situ power distributor bolt, it was full of rust. This might be the solution.

I brushed the rust off and replaced the cable via the quick release, but it's still slow to start. The next step is to inspect/replace the power distributor cable and bolt.

I'd love to inspect it first. How do you get the power distributor down into the footwell? Is there a way to do it without cutting the bolt? Do the cables attached to the distributor have enough slack for me to pull it down there?

Do you have any pointers or know of a how-to doc you can recommend?

Background: High mile (140k) 06 997 S cab and I just replaced the starter, aos and the b+ cable from the alternator. Thanks Equinox and Yvesvidal! Several plastic connectors and hoses were corroded and cracked that I didn't anticipate (oil filler tube, brake vacuum line, a connector for aos hoses) so it took forever to complete the job. After all that, it still has the hot starting/slow cranking issue and I had to be towed home from my second outing. I was ready to throw in the towel and make an appointment at the dealer when I ran across this post.
Wem,

If the current bolt is corroded on your car, i would imagine that the crimp that holds the quick connector on to your copper +battery cable is also corroded. I think this was the main issue with mine. I only replaced the current bolt because the new cable in the porsche repair kit required the new threaded bolt.

As for removing the power distributor:

1. remove +batt cable
2. remove 2 bolts next to where +batt cable connects to current bolt
3. in pass footwell, remove large plastic screws holding foam cover to underside of dashboard
4. remove hose connected to (heater box?) (source a new hose clamp. OE will be hard if not impossible to reuse)
5. carefully pull down power distributor while turning, twisting, and cursing.
(this can be done without cutting the bolt, but it is a very tight fit.)
(there is just enough slack on the wires to pull it down and open it up.)
6. the bottom of the distributor is a hinge. there are two tabs on the top forward facing side of the distributor. they are difficult to see, but they are there. lift the tabs and hinge open the box.

Also inspect both ends of the cable that goes from the power dist. to the transmission. (where your starter cable connected)

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: this part # (997-612-908-01) did not include the new threaded current pin/bolt. This is the part # for the bolt (997-610-916-00)

Hope this helps!
keep at it and get that P-Car starting like a champ!

Helpful tools
1. Kneeling pad
2. Midway and wrap up celebratory beers
The following users liked this post:
Trout164 (06-10-2024)
Old 09-07-2017, 07:11 AM
  #12  
Raven 666
Drifting
 
Raven 666's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 2,070
Received 92 Likes on 53 Posts
Default

Great thread going to have a look at this been having this is recently ............thank you
Old 09-11-2017, 11:54 PM
  #13  
WhipE350
Burning Brakes
 
WhipE350's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Near Charlotte NC
Posts: 965
Received 86 Likes on 55 Posts
Default

I was curious of the condition of the current bolt (pin) on my 2007 C2S. After seeing this thread I became suspicious the current drop the dealer indicated might not be caused by the starter harness. I know I have had excessive water in the area of the battery before buying my car which I have since taken care of. That area is prone to humidity anyway (there are drain holes right below it).

I pulled the bolt out and cleaned it up. It looked like the OPs bolt. The interesting part is the part of the bolt that has corrosion is not where the power distributor and starter cable connect, it is actually the part that holds the bolt in place so it can be tightened. I've included a photo and an arrow that points the perfectly good section that actually makes contact in the power distributor box.

Anyway I cleaned it all up and put it back together. I noticed the motor now starts with a little more gusto when warm but it hasn't totally fixed the prolonged start. I will measure the current later this week and see if I still have a drop. I've also ordered a starter and will do that this weekend. If all else fails I will do the harness.

One note for anyone replacing the current bolt and cable loom, removal and especially re-installation of the power distributor is SO much easier if you just pull the carpet back. Why suffer, just pull it back to start with and there is plenty of room.
Attached Images  
Old 09-14-2017, 04:14 AM
  #14  
Raven 666
Drifting
 
Raven 666's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 2,070
Received 92 Likes on 53 Posts
Default

Great post WhipE350 certainly going to check mine out .......Thanks
Old 09-16-2017, 04:12 PM
  #15  
arethusa71
Rennlist Member
 
arethusa71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Carlisle MA
Posts: 465
Received 25 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

This just might be the fix that I need. But I am going to take the cheapo path. Its funny- the documentation shows that the threaded shaft in the distribution box is the NEW design. Well, I wondered why 996/986 cars don't have this problem.... Well, those cars have a threaded shaft. And the distribution box looks about the same. Internals are slightly different. So I just ordered a cheapo 996 box from eBay. Part number is 99661030100. I am going to remove the shaft from the 996 box and I expect it will fit the 997 style box (for my cayman)- I then also ordered a 996 positive battery cable also from eBay for $15.00. If this works its an under $50 fix, vs the repair kit which is $250-$300 depending on where you order it. I am busy the next few weekends, so it might be a little while before I report back, but I will report!!!!


Quick Reply: 997.1 C2S hot start slow crank finally resolved



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 08:26 AM.