997.1 C2S hot start slow crank finally resolved
04-02-2018, 03:24 PM
#61
Why are three of those connectors soldered, and the other are just crimped? Look in the black box. Hmmm....might be a good idea to flow solder the other ones to. Take the nut off, remove the cable, flow solder the crimped portion, and then bolt them back in.
04-02-2018, 05:03 PM
#62
Three Wheelin'
Sorry to top old thread, but does anyone have a source for the cable and the bolt referenced in the OP:
997-610-916-00 (current bolt repair kit)
997-612-908-01 (cable loom repair kit)
Those two parts yield a $500 tab...is that correct?
Thanks to everyone for this informative thread.
997-610-916-00 (current bolt repair kit)
997-612-908-01 (cable loom repair kit)
Those two parts yield a $500 tab...is that correct?
Thanks to everyone for this informative thread.
Not sure about the bolt but I dont think you would actually need to replace it unless its super corroded. You can just clean it with a wire brush and should be good to go.
04-02-2018, 05:40 PM
#63
Advanced
04-04-2018, 01:57 PM
#65
OK - so my inexpensive solution to the bad firewall pin has been successful. Cost me about $35.00 but it all depends on if you can find the used parts. I grabbed a power distribution box from a 996 on eBay for $20 shipped. Most cost more, but I made an offer and it was accepted. I also used a 996 battery cable- which I got for $15 on eBay. Other options on that could be a generic, or cut off the end of the 997/987 slip fit connector and put on a bolt on type connector. The 996 battery cable is shorter than the 997/987 one, but it fit for me. I have an H6 battery- if you have a smaller one you could have issues.
The other issue with the power cable is that the OEM 997/987 cable has a wire that goes off someplace that is connected into the slip fit connector. I believe that the kit from Porsche includes a simple crimp connector for it, which is what I used... so it was not really an issue. Just something to be aware of.
Ill share my experience. This was done on a 2006 Cayman S. This should work on 997, 997.2, 987, 987.2 - but this is intended as a reference. I am not a mechanic, if you break your car you are on your own.
OK - so what did I do;
Parts list;
996 Power distribution block, part number 996.610.301.00
996 Positive battery terminal connector, Part number 996.612.090.00
1 ring terminal connector
dielectric grease
1 bandaid for my hand
1) Really a very simple task. When you get the 996 box, take the pin out of it. it comes right out once you take the nut off it on the inside.
2) Pull your Power distro box out... if you can't figure it out you shouldn't be working on your Porsche. Its very easy. The tip someone said about pulling the carpet down really makes it very easy.
3) remove the old pin, and put the new pin in the old box. Inspect the old box. Ive read that they can get corroded internally too. If they are bad- replace it. I put dielectric grease on the replacement pin - but may not be needed. its not present from the factory.
4) Put it back where it belongs! And attach the new battery cable, and crimp the connector onto the single wire that needs to now be connected at the firewall side of the block. Why did they do this?
Clean your drains while your in that area!!!
Now- I've tested my for half a day. Its a HUGE improvement. My car would turn SO slow after it was warm. Ive started it over and over and over. So far I am pretty happy with my $35.00 investment.
Ok - here are some pics as well....
The other issue with the power cable is that the OEM 997/987 cable has a wire that goes off someplace that is connected into the slip fit connector. I believe that the kit from Porsche includes a simple crimp connector for it, which is what I used... so it was not really an issue. Just something to be aware of.
Ill share my experience. This was done on a 2006 Cayman S. This should work on 997, 997.2, 987, 987.2 - but this is intended as a reference. I am not a mechanic, if you break your car you are on your own.
OK - so what did I do;
Parts list;
996 Power distribution block, part number 996.610.301.00
996 Positive battery terminal connector, Part number 996.612.090.00
1 ring terminal connector
dielectric grease
1 bandaid for my hand
1) Really a very simple task. When you get the 996 box, take the pin out of it. it comes right out once you take the nut off it on the inside.
2) Pull your Power distro box out... if you can't figure it out you shouldn't be working on your Porsche. Its very easy. The tip someone said about pulling the carpet down really makes it very easy.
3) remove the old pin, and put the new pin in the old box. Inspect the old box. Ive read that they can get corroded internally too. If they are bad- replace it. I put dielectric grease on the replacement pin - but may not be needed. its not present from the factory.
4) Put it back where it belongs! And attach the new battery cable, and crimp the connector onto the single wire that needs to now be connected at the firewall side of the block. Why did they do this?
Clean your drains while your in that area!!!
Now- I've tested my for half a day. Its a HUGE improvement. My car would turn SO slow after it was warm. Ive started it over and over and over. So far I am pretty happy with my $35.00 investment.
Ok - here are some pics as well....
Enough of my complaining, onto the solution. I couldn't justify paying $420 (wholesale price) for Porsche’s redesigned current bolt and cable.After I got the pin out of the power distribution box as described in other posts (I pulled the carpet down and didn’t have to take the rubber drain hose off the heater box), I cleaned the pin with a wire wheel and threaded the quick connect side using a 8mm die.
I then took two 8mm nuts and tightened them against each other about 3/4 of the way down my new threads to form a stop. I installed the current bolt back into the bower distribution box and reinstalled the box onto the firewall. Quick tip, keep the box closer to the center of the car to avoid the current bolt getting caught up on the fabric on the firewall. I then cut off the quick connect end of the battery cable, stripped back the rubber and crimped on a copper lug (ring style connector) to the primary cable and a smaller one to the secondary cable. I spread some dielectric grease onto the bolt and two connectors and secured the connectors onto the current bolt using a third 8mm bolt.
I then modified the old plastic cover to fit over the connection by cutting of the top half of the rear cover and also cutting an opening for the small ring connector.
I reconnected the battery cables and the car cranked over better than it ever had. The only cost I incurred were the few connectors and nuts that I had in stock. I hope this helps anyone else that runs across this problem and doesn't want to give Porsche $500 that they should fix for free anyway.
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cbracerx (06-26-2021)
04-06-2018, 12:37 PM
#66
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Very, very informative series of posts on this subject; I, too, have an occasional hot start issue with my 997.1. I'm curious if anyone has figured out why the corrosion issue on the hardware causes the start problems when hot versus when cold?,,(fully admit I know very little about auto electrical systems and am not a metallurgist either)
04-07-2018, 12:52 PM
#67
Three Wheelin'
@Jbradley0227 great first writeup. So you found the battery cable connected to the distributor bolt was corroded too? Ps - clean that frunk man! Looks like you have a family of mice living in there :-)
@schilling - yes good question. I would love to understand exactly whats going on here as well. I asked my indy and he just said "just replace the cable and your starter and stop asking so many questions...".
@schilling - yes good question. I would love to understand exactly whats going on here as well. I asked my indy and he just said "just replace the cable and your starter and stop asking so many questions...".
04-07-2018, 02:36 PM
#68
@Jbradley0227 great first writeup. So you found the battery cable connected to the distributor bolt was corroded too? Ps - clean that frunk man! Looks like you have a family of mice living in there :-)
@schilling - yes good question. I would love to understand exactly whats going on here as well. I asked my indy and he just said "just replace the cable and your starter and stop asking so many questions...".
@schilling - yes good question. I would love to understand exactly whats going on here as well. I asked my indy and he just said "just replace the cable and your starter and stop asking so many questions...".
Because there’s an air gap between the current bolt and the cable connector, moisture will collect inside the connection and cause corrosion over time. Horrible design.
06-14-2019, 10:31 AM
#69
Advanced
Well, I was able to get the updated bolt pretty easily...but it does me no good without the updated +battery cable. I've tried ordering from a few different places, including walmart.com, and they all politely email me a few days after order that they do not have the part, don't know when it will arrive, and that they are canceling my order.
This is the part number I'm after: 997-612-908-01 (cable loom repair kit)
Does anyone have one kicking around, or know where it might actually be in stock?
Thank you!
This is the part number I'm after: 997-612-908-01 (cable loom repair kit)
Does anyone have one kicking around, or know where it might actually be in stock?
Thank you!
06-15-2019, 09:15 PM
#70
Rennlist Member
Thanks to all that posted regarding this issue. My 997TT had a weak start when hot and also had a digital clock on the dash that kept losing time. I cleaned up the positive battery distribution terminal and all is well. I had posted my experience and some pictures in a separate thread about the clock issue:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post15819873
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...l#post15819873
07-19-2019, 08:10 PM
#71
997 Battery Loom Kit 997-612-908-01
Hi All,
I received my loom kit today. I understand that I need to crimp the red wire (with round eyelet) to the existing wire in the car and attach to the terminal post along with the new battery cable.
My question is... what is the other red wire (in the picture the wire rolled up that has a black female connector) used for? Where does this go?
Thanks! Bob
07-23-2019, 10:40 AM
#72
Advanced
Hi Bob,
I await someone with the know-how to answer the question about the additional red lead.
As an aside, where were you able to source the loom kit? I am having trouble finding one to buy.
Thanks,
Stefan
I await someone with the know-how to answer the question about the additional red lead.
As an aside, where were you able to source the loom kit? I am having trouble finding one to buy.
Thanks,
Stefan
07-23-2019, 10:54 AM
#73
Three Wheelin'
Hi guys - sorry I can't help on that battery cable. I read a post about someone replacing that. Let me see if I can find.
I cleaned my pin as a first step before I replaced the alternator cable. It was somewhat rusty but it didnt do anything. My indy told me it wouldn't but I didn't listen :-)
I cleaned my pin as a first step before I replaced the alternator cable. It was somewhat rusty but it didnt do anything. My indy told me it wouldn't but I didn't listen :-)
08-14-2019, 10:44 PM
#74
Racer
Bumping the thread as I'm still struggling with this issue ...
I've already replaced the alt-to-starter cable, the starter motor, a new battery and I just did this swap over the weekend to replace the power distribution post & battery positive cable with a clean 996 version. My original part had some corrosion, but wasn't terrible. Anyway, no improvement with any of the parts.
Car cranks OK in the morning when cold, but stop to fill up for gas or drop into a store ... and you're lucky if it cranks over. I don't suspect the alternator is the problem as the car starts fine in the mornings and battery voltage at rest is ~ 12.7V when I checked on the weekend before swapping the distribution post.
I'm at a loss as to what to try next - the only thing I can think of is the ground strap cable in the engine bay passenger side??
I've already replaced the alt-to-starter cable, the starter motor, a new battery and I just did this swap over the weekend to replace the power distribution post & battery positive cable with a clean 996 version. My original part had some corrosion, but wasn't terrible. Anyway, no improvement with any of the parts.
Car cranks OK in the morning when cold, but stop to fill up for gas or drop into a store ... and you're lucky if it cranks over. I don't suspect the alternator is the problem as the car starts fine in the mornings and battery voltage at rest is ~ 12.7V when I checked on the weekend before swapping the distribution post.
I'm at a loss as to what to try next - the only thing I can think of is the ground strap cable in the engine bay passenger side??
08-15-2019, 12:49 PM
#75
Three Wheelin'
Wow that sucks. It seems like you have covered all the usual suspects. A couple recommendations:
1. I see you are in Ontario. I would imagine you have some corrosion on the underside. I would start there. Corrosion on a cable or junction box = resistance. Resistance = hot start issue.
2. So, I would inspect the cable from the battery all the way to the alternator for any signs of corrosion. I assume you already checked the junction box on the tranny when replacing the starter+alternator cable. I've read where that was corroded and caused hot start issues.
Maybe some of the other guys on here have a wiring diagram, but I would take off the center underside panels from the *** to the tip to inspect every inch of that cable. I actually have never seen where it goes forward of the tranny.
3. If you have a multimeter I would also check at every point in the system to isolate where its coming from.
- at the alternator
- at the junction box
- at the battery
-etc
4. A simple one, but maybe shouldn't be overlooked, have you tested the cold crank on the new battery?
Electricity is voodoo magic to me, so sorry I can't be more help here. Hopefully some of the other guys can jump in.
1. I see you are in Ontario. I would imagine you have some corrosion on the underside. I would start there. Corrosion on a cable or junction box = resistance. Resistance = hot start issue.
2. So, I would inspect the cable from the battery all the way to the alternator for any signs of corrosion. I assume you already checked the junction box on the tranny when replacing the starter+alternator cable. I've read where that was corroded and caused hot start issues.
Maybe some of the other guys on here have a wiring diagram, but I would take off the center underside panels from the *** to the tip to inspect every inch of that cable. I actually have never seen where it goes forward of the tranny.
3. If you have a multimeter I would also check at every point in the system to isolate where its coming from.
- at the alternator
- at the junction box
- at the battery
-etc
4. A simple one, but maybe shouldn't be overlooked, have you tested the cold crank on the new battery?
Electricity is voodoo magic to me, so sorry I can't be more help here. Hopefully some of the other guys can jump in.